Mexico City Mexico City Hotels— —Hotels Downtown México, Centro Hotels Histórico Storied location — Where to stay This 17th-century palace once belonged to la condesa (the countess) of Miravalle – one of the wealthiest women in the Americas and the namesake of colonia Condesa – so when Grupo Habita turned it into a hotel in 2012, they made sure to keep its historic character. Housed within the volcanic- rock walls are 15 rooms and two suites, with furniture by Mexican designer Paul Roco and an open-plan layout by Cherem Serrano Arquitectos. The rooftop pool and bar host regular parties, while the ground floor is home to fabled Mexico City’s hotel scene restaurant Azul Histórico and a was once defined by giant selection of shops by Mexican foreign chains that bore artisans and designers such as little relation to the city and Carla Fernández. “We’re more its culture. But a flurry of than just a pillow-and-breakfast recent openings by young, hotel,” says Grupo Habita’s entrepreneurial Mexicans founding partner Rafael Micha. (and a few expats) has 30 Isabel la Católica, 06002 elevated the capital’s +52 (55) 5130 6830 hospitality industry to downtownmexico.com new levels. Generic skyscrapers monocle comment: Artist and continental breakfasts Manuel Rodríguez Lozano’s have fallen from grace, mural over the main stairs dates in favour of carefully back to 1945 and was restored restored townhouses and during the refurbishment. rooms decked out with artisanal Mexican wares. Even some big names have embraced the shift: a 2015 renovation of the Four Seasons transformed the city’s most prestigious hotel into something akin to a traditional hacienda. We’ve scoured the streets from Centro Histórico to Polanco and found the best beds in CDMX, whether you’re after a design-conscious stopover for a business trip or a refined Porfirian- era abode in which to hang your sombrero. 014 015 Mexico City Mexico City Hotels— —Hotels Nima Local House Hotel, Roma Norte Home from home “Normally people’s reaction is, ‘Oh my, I’m in a Mexican home, not a hotel,’” says owner Regina Montes. And what a home it is: original parquet floors, cantera stone pillars and an intimate courtyard overflowing with a mighty Monstera deliciosa. The historic building dates to around 1910 and once belonged to one of Mexico’s greatest art collectors, Guillermo Tovar y de Teresa. With the help of her brother- in-law José Ogarrio, Montes transformed it into a four- Condesa DF, Condesa room boutique hotel in 2016, Classic cool preserving all the features that give the building its character. From the outside, with its tall In the rooms you’ll find arched windows and quaint artisanal textiles, cosmetics Parisian-style balconies, this by Persea and complimentary is a perfect example of the wine from Mexican producers. Porfirian-era architecture 236 Colima, 06700 for which this part of town +52 (55) 7591 7175 is famous. But the exterior nimalocalhousehotel.com belies the bright atmosphere and contemporary look of monocle comment: the smartly designed suites The verdant rooftop terrace is (featuring furniture from an oasis of calm, features a well- Paris-based designer India stocked bar and hosts regular Mahdavi) and light-flooded starlit dinners for guests. inner courtyard. The latter is a triangular space open to the skies, where breakfast and an all-day menu are served by executive chef Antonio Balderas. However, the hotel’s pièce de résistance is the rooftop bar, a favourite among both visitors and Mexico City’s artistic set. 102 Avenida Veracruz, 06700 +52 (55) 5241 2600 condesadf.com monocle comment: Condesa DF was the third hotel opened by Grupo Habita (in 2005), a brand that now has 14 stays throughout Mexico and the US. A new outpost opens on Calle República de Guatemala in Centro Histórico in 2019. 016 017 Mexico City Mexico City Hotels— —Hotels Las Alcobas, Polanco Ta s t e f u l l y a p p o i n t e d Hotels in upmarket Polanco are generally on the gaudy and uninspiring side but Las Alcobas delivers quiet luxury with an intimate atmosphere. The enormous rosewood staircase in the lobby leads up to 31 spacious rooms and four suites with polished wooden furnishings, floor-to- ceiling windows and marble bathrooms, plus a minibar stocked with Siete Misterios mezcal (see page 64) and complimentary artisanal treats. Canadian design studio Yabu Pushelberg transformed the mid-century building in 2010 Four Seasons, Juárez and, while few original features Centre stage could be kept, discerning touches such as the quartz Considering the fact that the finish along the corridor walls Four Seasons sits on one of Chaya B&B, Centro (West) make up for the lack of history. the busiest roads in the city, Simply charming 390 Avenida Presidente the peaceful ambience of its Masaryk, 11560 grand courtyard – akin to Chaya is found on the top +52 (55) 3300 3900 being in a hacienda – is all floor of Barrio Alameda, lasalcobas.com the more remarkable. a 1920s mansion recently The hotel received a welcome revived by a host of new monocle comment: The renovation by French designers restaurants, cafés and shops. downstairs restaurant, Anatol, Gilles & Boissier in 2015. It’s the work of three young serves elegant Mediterranean The rooms and interiors are and creative entrepreneurs: cuisine and is the perfect venue luxurious, albeit aesthetically Cristina Mascareñas, Mauricio for a business lunch. predictable, but it’s the leafy Carbonell and his brother Luis, courtyard that elevates this who was the architect behind hotel above the competition. its simply designed spaces. Sit here and enjoy a long lunch Chaya’s charm is in the at in-house restaurant Zanaya, details: the locally produced which opened its doors to great furniture and art; the acclaim in 2016, or after-dinner bath products by Mexican drinks from bar Fifty Mils. brand LoredAna; the music The latter’s negroni features performances and events for chocolate bitters – and it’s guests; and the beautiful worth a visit just to sample it. rooftop courtyard, a tranquil 500 Paseo de la Reforma, 06600 haven from the streets below. +52 (55) 5230 1818 3F Barrio Alameda, 9 Doctor fourseasons.com/mexico Mora, 06050 +52 (55) 5512 9074 monocle comment: Every chayabnb.com Sunday the courtyard hosts an opulent brunch that’s open to monocle comment: We the public. For a set fee you’ll recommend the Master Suite, be treated to everything from a spacious double with a view grilled octopus and traditional over Alameda Central park and Mexican cuisine to champagne a handsome standalone bath. and live guitar. 018 019 Mexico City Mexico City Hotels— —Hotels Ignacia Guest House, Roma Norte Revamped residence This small b&b – a turn-of-the- century residence enhanced by earthy tones, modern furniture, Nordic-style lamps and Mexican pottery – was opened by architect Gina Lozada and Fermín Espinosa. The Oaxacan-style garden filled with cacti, palms and orange trees is the crowning glory. Breakfast is made in-house and, come afternoon, cocktails are served alfresco. The neighbours from Casa Jacaranda also ofer Mexican cooking lessons on their rooftop. La Valise, Roma Norte House B, 208 Jalapa, 06700 Casa Dovela, Condesa Self-contained suites +52 (55) 5584 2681 Apartment living ignacia.mx This townhouse hotel, This California-style which dates back to 1920, monocle comment: Each townhouse is a cross-junction was opened in 2014 by Belgian suite has its own colour between luxury home and entrepreneur Yves Naman scheme (black, navy, ochre, boutique hotel. Franco- and was at one time his pink or green). Mexican couple William and home. With French designer Andrea Tiburcio brought in Emmanuel Picault he French architects Emmanuel transformed it into a three- Picault and Ludwig Godefroy suite hideaway, each uniquely to transform the 1930s building appointed with vintage furniture into three spacious apartments. from Mexican regions such Two boast a second floor as Yucatán and Michoacán. with an extra bedroom, while Since there are no common all feature a kitchen and areas or restaurant, every room living area. has its own living area and The 24-hour concierge kitchen and is catered for by provides breakfast from nearby renowned restaurant Rosetta, bakeries, while a chef is always whose staf will bring over an on hand to cook lunch or opulent spread from across dinner in the guest rooms. the road if you don’t feel like “Not having common spaces cooking. Our pick of the three means more privacy, comfort suites is the bright and airy La and discretion for our guests,” Terraza; its bed can slide out says Andrea. onto the terrace, for those who 152 Cuernavaca, 06170 fancy a kip under the sun. +52 (55) 2155 6312 53 Tonalá, 06700 casadovela.com +52 (55) 5286 9560 lavalise.com monocle comment: The interior design is by Alan V monocle comment: Guests Favero of Taller Lu’um (see receive complimentary cafeine page 50), who collaborated with hits from next-door Almanegra Mexican artisans to deck the (see page 40) – one of the first rooms with wares from Oaxaca, cafés in the city to favour Michoacán and beyond. European-style cofee culture. 020 021 Mexico City Mexico City Hotels— —Hotels Hotel Carlota, Cuauhtémoc Urban space Named after the wife of Mexico’s short-lived Habsburg emperor Maximilian I (see page 70), this city bolthole exudes gritty, unfettered charm, courtesy of designer Javier Sánchez. At the centre is a slim swimming pool Casa Nuevo León, Condesa with a glass edge, that sports Cool and contemporary weekly parties, flanked by a long bar that’s popular with Casa Nuevo León ticks the city’s designers, artists and all the boxes for design- entrepreneurs.