tuscany tuscany f you’ve ever been to Italy, then you’re probably familiar with the concept of passegiata; Italian for ‘taking a stroll while watching the world go by’. And if ever there was a place to indulge in the pleasures of this pastime, Tuscany is it. Just the word Tuscany is enough to evoke a sense of languorous well-being, all at once conjuring up images of lush hills, vibrant orange groves, endless wine and olives. But one thing it probably doesn’t make you think of is beaches, which is strange as the region famed amongst other things for being the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, boasts over 400 miles of stunning coastline. This coastal area of Southern Tuscany is called The Maremma, stretching from the town of Cecina south to the border with Lazio. Its northern section is known as Maremma di Mare- the seaside Maremma- and is in the province of Livorno, where you can find the beautiful Gulf of Baratti; while the southern part, known as Maremma di terra, beginning just south of Piombino, includes not only some spectacular pieces of coastline, but also large swathes of wild and untouched terra incognita. Looking out across these green coastal plains, it’s hard to believe that just a few hundred years ago the Maremma was considered a dreaded and godforsaken The historic town place by the aristocrats and merchants of Siena and Florence: malaria ridden, of Porto Ercole. swampy and good for nothing apart from eel farming. It was here that the tragic >> POLO IN PARADISE Perfect beaches, dramatic landscapes and a polo club with a view. Welcome to Monte Argentario. WORDS Bita Taghavi 46 après • Spring/Summer 2011 / 47 © Daniele Salatin tuscany tuscany heroine, Pia de’Tolomei met her death in the 13th century, exiled to the Castel LEFT The Coppa di Pietra by her unfaithful husband Italia F.I.S.E. who accused her of infidelity. Meeting Pia in purgatory, Dante immortalizes her legend in The Divine Comedy, where she tells the poet ‘Siena made me, the Maremma unmade me’, dealing the area a crushing blow from which it would take centuries to recover. Beginning under the Medici (and continuing under popes, Savoy kings and Mussolini), the lengthy process of land drainage eradicated the harsh malaria plagued existence that the Maremma had known since the Middle Ages; a time characterised infamously in the well known folksong Porto Ercole is now associated with of the region, ‘Maremma Amara’ or the glamour of the fashionable jet ‘Bitter Maremma’, which eloquently set, the old town has preserved its tells of the impoverished life to be had ancient historic architecture, with its in Maremma not so long ago, where snaking labyrinth of narrow winding daily hardships, suffering and death streets and tiny coloured houses. from malaria were common place Unfortunately, modern sensibilities in a ‘terra infida’, ‘treacherous land have seen the end of one of the town’s of bandits’. Now of course the air is a small pebble beach and the most feast day traditions, the ‘flight of the sweet, there’s not a bandit in sight and translucent turquoise water you’ll find goat’, an innocent festivity which the charms of the Maremma are too on Italy’s Western shore. involved a harness, a pulley, a long many to count, but perhaps none more nest in Europe. Its serene tranquillity On Argentario itself, the two main cord stretching from beach to castle enchanting than the ruggedly wild and provides an intriguing contrast against towns of Porto Ercole and Porto Santo bars. Porto Ercole, on the southern and, of course, a goat. rocky peninsula, Monte Argentario. the high, jagged Monte Argentario Stefano, whilst being equally rich in side of the promontory, has less grime Perfectly placed between the Once an island off the coast of coast and for bird lovers there’s a population of roe deer and is out of natural beauty and historical culture, and more glamour. Probably founded tombolli of Gianella and Feniglia on Tuscany, Monte Argentario is now veritable feast for the eyes, including bounds to all except walkers and have a remarkably different feel, by the Phoenicians and after inhabited Monte Argentario is where you’ll find connected to the mainland by three pink flamingos, mallard, black winged cyclists. The famous beach here is though both fill up with the Prada clad by the Etruscans and the Romans, the the eponymous polo club. Famed for thin isthmuses. Two ‘tombolli’ or stilts and kingfishers. Orbetello itself what most beaches can only dream smart set in July and August. town received its current name from its idyllic setting and for being the sandy strips: Tombollo della Feniglia is a lively town, located at the tip of of being: with fine white sand, rich Santo Stefano has been a fishing this latter civilization who named it epicentre of Italian polo, Argentario and Tombollo della Giannella which the finger of land that juts out into Mediterranean pines (providing village for centuries and is still very after Heracles, the mythological hero, Polo Club was founded in 1987; the formed naturally over 4000 years ago the lagoon, where you can sample the welcome shade) and a gently shelving much a bustling working port. son of Zeus and Alcmene. It was vision of a group of players from and the Orbotello lagoon dam, which local eels in one of the many trattorias beach which warms the sea, Feniglia Although much of it was bombed here in Porto Ercole that the ill-fated Rome, Milan and South America who was constructed in 1840. The lagoon and absorb some of its inimitable feels like a little piece of paradise. The during the war, cleverly a lot of the genius Michaelangelo Merisi, better had the dream of playing polo in this is a protected wildlife area, lying on Andalucian charm; a pleasant remnant beach on Tombollo della Gianella in old stone was used for rebuilding, known as ‘Caravaggio’ died in 1610 luscious green land by the coast. This one of the most important migratory of the two centuries it spent under the north of the peninsula is certainly making its newness almost entirely of malaria. High up on the hillside of beautiful club is widely recognised routes and providing one of the main Spanish rule. Tombollo della Feniglia the more crowded and action packed inconspicuous. Here oily, battered this port, the fortresses of La Rocca, as one of the best in Europe and it’s wintering sites for many birds that is a nature reserve, which has a healthy spot with an array of water sports trawlers bob in the water next to Filippo, Santa Carolina and Stella, easy to see why: the setting is classic to suit all tastes, from a bit of gentle the pristine craft of the international dominate over this small, picturesque Maremma Toscana and the view from >> snorkelling to sea kayaking and yacht glitterati and fishermen rub harbour and are a strong reminder wind-surfing. Costa d’ Argentario is shoulders with Gucci men. Walking of a more unsettled time during a treasure trove of gulfs, capes, islets along the front you’ll find incredible the 16th century when the town and spectacular bays to explore and fish markets packed with the freshest was controlled by the Spanish. Of discover, studded with gems like Cala seafood imaginable as well as a these, the massive and awesome Fort Piccola; a secluded rocky cove with profusion of restaurants and fancy Filippo is not to be missed. Although “NOW OF COURSE, THE AIR IS SWEET, THERE’S NOT A BANDIT IN SIGHT AND THE CHARMS OF THE MAREMMA ARE TOO MANY TO COUNT” 48 après • Spring/Summer 2011 / 49 isola rossa tuscany © Daniele Salatin LEFT La Mimosa Green Season are crowned winners at the 2010 Italian Championshi BOTTOM The 2010 Pellicano Ladies Cup in action. the pristine playing fields and stables Annunziata who also won the coveted but it’s in July and August that the of the turquoise Tyrrhenian sea is title of Italian Champions 2010. club really comes alive with a feast breathtaking. In the high heat of the The great success and acclaim the of sporting and social events. 2011 summer, you’ll find a much needed Ladies Cup achieved in its first year will see the third Ladies Cup from cold drink in the clubhouse- set amidst paved the way for the second editon the 21st to 24th of July, as well as the dark green cypress trees flanking to enter the most famous ladies the International Tournament, the the fields- which is friendly and tournament in the world, the Women’s renowned Coppa Italia F.I.S.E and Maremma to the core with its ochre Championship Tournament. Apart the Summer Cup. The season ends daubed walls and wooden beams. from being the birthplace of women’s on a high at the end of September It’s here at the Argentario that tournaments in Italy, Argentario can with the Monte Argentario Gold some of the best Italian polo matches boast other Italian and European Cup, an exhilarating six day high have been played and many of the records: it was the first club in Italy to goal tournament (12-15hp). There’s world’s greatest players have graced organize a junior tournament (10-15 something truly magical about the the fields, including Gonzalo and year olds) and every year the Coppa Argentario Polo Club; the speed and Horacito Heguy, Alejandro (Piki) Italia F.I.S.E and the Summer Cup energy of a polo match set against and David Sterling amongst a host see a record number of Italian teams such perfect tranquillity makes for an of others.