08_596624 ch05.qxd 10/25/05 9:15 PM Page 69 5 Where to Dine San Diego’s dining scene, once a culinary backwater, has come into its own during the past decade. The spark for this new spirit of experimentation and style has been an explosion in the transplant population and cultural diversification. But other factors are at play. A bustling economy helps, motivating folks to step out and exercise their palates. These new foodies have been taught to respect the sea- sonality of vegetables, allowing chefs to revel in the bounteous agri- culture of San Diego County by focusing on vegetables when flavors are at their peak at specialized North County growers like Chino Farms and Be Wise Ranch. Top young cooks are increasingly lured by San Diego’s agreeable lifestyle and the chance to make a fast impression in the region’s din- ing scene. How many chefs have been seduced by the idea that you can surf in the ocean each morning, then hand-select fresh produce at the farm where it was grown for preparation that afternoon? And although we import chefs from around the world, we’ve even started exporting them—Marine Room wizard Bernard Guillas represents America at illustrious events like the Masters of Food and Wine. As you can imagine, San Diego offers terrific seafood: Whether at unembellished market-style restaurants that let the fresh catch take center stage or at upscale restaurants that feature extravagant presen- tations, the ocean’s bounty is everywhere. Those traditional main- stays, American and Continental cuisine, still carry their share of the weight in San Diego. But, with increasing regularity, they’re mating with lighter, more contemporary, often ethnic styles. The movement is akin to the eclectic fusion cuisine that burst onto the scene in the earlyCOPYRIGHTED 1990s. That’s not to say traditionalists MATERIAL will be disappointed: San Diego still has plenty of clubby steak-and-potatoes stalwarts, and we’re loaded with the chain restaurants you’ll probably recog- nize from home. Number one on most every visitor’s list of priorities is Mexican food—a logical choice given the city’s history and location. You’ll find lots of highly Americanized interpretations of Mexican fare along with 08_596624 ch05.qxd 10/25/05 9:16 PM Page 70 70 CHAPTER 5 . WHERE TO DINE a few hidden gems, like El Agave and Berta’s, that serve true south-of- the-border cuisine. The most authentic Mexican import may be the humble fish taco, perhaps the city’s favorite fast food. If you love Italian food, you’re also in luck. Not only does San Diego boast a strong contingent of old-fashioned Sicilian-style choices, but you almost can’t turn a corner without running into a trattoria. The Gaslamp Quarter corners the market with upscale northern Italian bistros on virtually every block. Hillcrest, La Jolla, and other neighborhoods also boast their fair share. They cater mostly to locals (usually a good thing) and their menus almost always include gourmet pizzas baked in wood-fired ovens, a trend that shows no signs of slowing down. San Diego’s multicultural fabric ensures that ethnic foods are a good option when you want something more exotic than Mexican or Italian fare. While Chinese restaurants have long had a place at the table, Asian cuisine today also means Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, and Cambodian restaurants. A drive through the heart of Kearny Mesa reveals a panoply of Asian eateries at all prices, along with vast grocery stores brimming with quirky delicacies. But also note that many intrepid “mainstream” chefs fuse Asian ingredients and preparations with more familiar Mediterranean or French menus. For diners on a budget, the more expensive San Diego restaurants are usually accommodating if you want to order a few appetizers instead of a main course, and many offer more reasonably priced lunch menus. Worthwhile discount coupons are found in the San Diego Weekly Reader, available free on Thursdays (and known as The Weekly in an edited version distributed at local hotels). In keeping with our beach culture, even in the more pricey places, dress tends to be casual; some notable exceptions are downtown and La Jolla’s more expensive restaurants and the hotels on Coronado, where jeans are a no-no and gentlemen will feel most comfortable in a dinner jacket. A note on parking: Unless a listing specifies otherwise, drivers can expect to park within 2 or 3 blocks of the restaurants listed here. If you can’t find a free or metered space on the street, you can seek out a garage or lot; most Gaslamp Quarter and La Jolla venues offer valet parking. 1 Downtown & Little Italy Downtown dining tends to be more formal than elsewhere, because of the business clientele and evening theater- and opera-goers. Once the domain of a few high-priced and highfalutin Continental and 08_596624 ch05.qxd 10/25/05 9:16 PM Page 71 DOWNTOWN & LITTLE ITALY 71 American restaurants, downtown was turned on its ear when swank spots began moving in to the Gaslamp Quarter’s restored Victorian buildings in the late 1980s. If you stroll down Fifth Avenue between E and Market streets, you’ll find a month’s worth of restaurants, all packed with a hip local crowd. The Embarcadero, a stretch of water- front along the bay, is also home to several great eating spots, all of which capitalize on their bay views. And Little Italy—home to stal- wart Filippi’s Pizza Grotto—has benefited from the arrival of Indigo Grill, where the fusion of cuisines seems to include almost everything but Italian. There are several excellent restaurants just north of the “border” created by the I-5—these are described in the Hillcrest/Uptown section that follows. Note: To locate these restaurants, please see the “Downtown San Diego Accommodations & Dining” map on p. 37. VERY EXPENSIVE Star of the Sea SEAFOOD A millennium makeover banished Star of the Sea’s stuffy, outmoded aura to the past; gone is that dated dress code and off-putting formality, replaced by a com- fortable ambience and modern decor matched to the still-glorious harbor view. The focus here is on the fine dining, though: Executive chef Paul McCabe imbues the menu with sophisticated nuances that show he’s in touch with today’s gourmands. The menu is market driven (and changes nightly); representative dishes include grilled baquetta (sea bass) with wild mushrooms and white truffle risotto, and New Zealand John Dory with fennel pollen, lemon caper brown butter, and parsnip purée. There are always a few offerings for carnivores like a Black Angus rib-eye or boneless beef short ribs, but otherwise, smart diners stick to the always-fresh seafood delights. There’s a reasonably priced wine list and a welcoming bar with its own abbreviated menu. 1360 N. Harbor Dr. (at Ash St.). & 619/232-7408. www.starofthesea.com. Reserva- tions recommended. Main courses $26–$29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30– 10:30pm. Valet parking $4. Bus: All Harbor Dr. routes. Trolley: America Plaza. EXPENSIVE Chive AMERICAN/ECLECTIC This big city–style Gaslamp venue introduced San Diego to the sleek and chic dining rooms of the East Coast, and to daring kitchen inventions. Start with a fashionable cocktail, of course: The local martini is embellished with Gorgonzola-stuffed olives, and Chive’s twist on the mojito adds a gin- gery splash to the Cuban trademark. 08_596624 ch05.qxd 10/25/05 9:16 PM Page 72 72 CHAPTER 5 . WHERE TO DINE Chef A. J. Voytko’s menu changes every 6 to 8 weeks, but popu- lar dishes found more often than not include spice-crusted lamb loin, a roasted baby beet salad, a nightly “noodle” (pasta) of the chef’s whim, and salads that balance crispy greens with pungent, creamy cheeses and sweet fruit accents. But don’t be surprised to encounter culinary curiosities like foie gras with banana bread and caramelized bananas—diners who take a chance on such eccentric- ities are usually richly rewarded. An international wine list offers many intriguing selections by “cork” or “stem,” and includes post- meal sipping tequilas, ports, and Scotch. Chive balances its angular, wide space with cozy lighting, warm fabrics, and a pervasive sense of relaxed fun. One lament: In pursuit of elegant modernity, the cement floors and other hard surfaces amplify the noise level. 558 Fourth Ave. (at Market St.). & 619/232-4483. www.chiverestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–11pm. Live jazz Sat. Valet parking $7. Bus: 1, 3, 4, 5, 16, or 25. Trolley: Conven- tion Center. Croce’s AMERICAN/ECLECTIC Ingrid Croce, widow of singer-songwriter Jim, was instrumental in the resurgence of the once-decayed Gaslamp Quarter, and her establishment has expanded to fill every corner of this 1890 Romanesque building. Croce’s features a menu that fuses Southern soul and Southwestern spice with Asian flavors and Italian pastas. The food is good, not ter- ribly memorable, service can be clunky, and the dinner tab can be breathtaking. But add the adjacent, raucous Top Hat Bar & Grille and the intimate Jazz Bar, and the complex is a hot ticket among conventioneers, with crowds lining up for dinner tables and night- club shows. An evening in the Gaslamp Quarter isn’t complete with- out at least strolling by the Croce’s corner; expect a festive good time any night of the week. Those who dine in either of the restaurant’s side-by-side seating areas can enter the two nightspots (see chapter 8 for a full listing) without paying the cover charge.