de sig ners all those mystifying names behind staged a grand swan-song the labels, it’s the fashion designers retrospective of his work, I attended who’ve been the mainstays of YSL’s last full couture collection at While Fashion Television, and at the heart the Intercontinental Hotel in Paris. and soul of it all. And while some “I’m afraid Yves Saint Laurent is the may beg to differ, in our eyes, the last one to think about elegant cream of the crop were always true women,” Pierre Bergé, the designer’s artists. Their crystal-clear vision, long-time business partner and inspired aesthetic, passion for former lover, told me. “Now things perfection, desire to communicate are different… Life has changed. and downright tenacity all made Maybe in a way, it’s more modern, the world a more beautiful place, and easier… I don’t want to argue we never and provided fascinating fodder for with that. Everybody has a right to us to explore. design clothes the way they feel. But for Saint Laurent, who loves Sometimes, these designers would and respects women and their be unlikely characters. Who could bodies, it’s very difficult to have guessed, the first time we understand the feel of today.” met Marc Jacobs, in 1986 at a Toronto garment factory—an Bergé went on to explain that adorable, personable kid with hair creativity, not marketing, always made it down to his elbows, eager to show came first for Saint Laurent. And us his small collection of knitwear— because of that, he was at odds that this bright designer would be with the way the fashion world heralded by Vogue 14 years later now functioned. At the end of that as The Prince of Cool? Jacobs went show, Saint Laurent hinted at his on to not only rule the runways of impending departure. He told me, New York and conquer Paris with “The work is very, very hard for me his work for Louis Vuitton, he also now. I’m beginning to be old, and helped define our sensibility of I must think about retirement.” our s ole what makes fashion truly modern. I was saddened to think of the inevitability of losing this brilliant Also in 1986, I had the privilege of gentle giant from the very arena interviewing Gianni Versace at his he’d helped define. new palazzo in the centre of Milan. The crew and I were charmed to But perhaps the most poignant and discover this gentle, soft-spoken memorable departure from this man exuding such a quiet and elaborate world of fashion was casual elegance—so far from the staged by the inimitable Valentino mission bold flamboyance associated with for the master’s 45 th anniversary in his label. I’d borrowed an outfit July, 2007—just three months from the Versace boutique earlier before he announced his retirement. in the day to wear for the interview, After the official opening of his and Versace complimented me on retrospective exhibition in Rome, how it looked. He asked where I Valentino and his long-time partner got it, and I told him I’d borrowed Giancarlo Giammetti pulled out all it from his shop. “Did you meet my the stops and hosted a surreal sister Donatella there? She does all outdoor dinner party at the historic to expo se the accessories, sunglasses, shows. Temple of Venus, on a mammoth She’s really fantastic. You must terrazzo facing the Colosseum. meet her. You should interview her Eight hundred guests were treated too,” he said proudly. It was clear to a sumptuous buffet and countless Versace adored his younger sister glasses of champagne. Just past and was eager to promote her. midnight, beautiful aerial artists When he was murdered in 1997 clad in flowing Valentino gowns and Donatella took over the House, sailed through the night sky to the I knew it was exactly what he strains of opera, the performance would have wanted. culminating in a seemingly endless display of fireworks. This was over- Most monumentally, we had the the-top beauty at its spectacular opportunity not only to meet so best, a dream only Valentino could many legends at the height of their have masterminded. The scene left careers, but also witness their many of us speechless, yet reminded grand, sentimental exits. In 2001, us all why we stay in a business that six months before Yves Saint Laurent at times can seem so tough, announced his retirement and heartless and shallow. —Jeanne designers FT25 171 s e g a m I y t t e G y b r u o t n o C Jean Paul Gaultier Darling Rascal Grandson of a Parisian psychic, Jean Paul Gaultier has a penchant for the outlandish. He’s known as “enfant terrible” of the fashion world for his mischievous antics both on the runway and off. He once sent live turkeys to critical fashion editors, and most recently, he invited burlesque star Dita Von Teese to perform a striptease at his couture Prada presentation. The designer doesn’t Less is More assign gender to clothing, famously Miuccia Prada keeps us guessing, dressing male models in skirts, using unusual fabrics in tutus and even corsets. As a real combinations that keep even the enfant, Gaultier was fascinated by savviest of fashion experts in awe. the glitzy costumes of the Folies One season it’s shiny silk tunics, Bergère showgirls, which started a tiny bloomers and turbans, and the lifelong passion for cinched waists. next, furry wool skirts, cardigans Madonna, Kylie Minogue and Lady and footless knee socks. Prada’s Gaga are fans. His cat? Not so background is equally diverse. much: in an interview with the The former communist followed Telegraph he said, “Do you know a Ph.D in Political Science with that cats can’t wear corsets? five years in mime school before Not at all! They just fall over. I know, taking over the family business in because I tried!” —VG 1978. She then revolutionized the luxury leather company. In 1985, when fashion was all about flash, Prada introduced a simple black nylon handbag that became a sensation. And then, in a sea of frills and neon, Prada made another fashion splash with her minimal, almost austere clothing. Although her collections are unpredictable, each season since that first has retained a simple Prada spirit— clean lines, unique textiles and a little something unexpected. —Vanessa Grant 172 FT25 designers designers FT25 173 s Christopher Bailey e g Check Mate a m I Defender of the trademark tan, y t t black and red check, Burberry chief e G y creative director Christopher Bailey b r puts pretty English roses and stylish u o t dandies in cool clothes that reflect n o their heritage. The former Gucci C designer rescued the label and its signature check from becoming the uniform of chavs: teenage delinquents and tacky wannabe football wives. While the pattern rarely makes a runway appearance, Burberry’s tradition turns up in Bailey’s modern interpretations of classic British style. “I want to explore what it means to be British,” said Bailey when he first took the helm in 2001. Britishness, he has said, is not about clichés like a red bus or postbox, but the clash of formal society with rebelliousness and innovation, a concept Bailey obviously understands. How else could he reinvent the trench coat season after season? —VG Oscar de la Renta Fifth Avenue Tropics The name Oscar de la Renta may conjure images of a socialite of a certain age, but the truth is that a well-tailored, ladylike dress is ageless. What makes de la Renta gowns so appealing, especially in spring, is his use of colour. He injects his collections with the flavour of his native Dominican Republic; exotic florals and vivid shades adding a hint of attitude to his almost modest silhouettes. And the women who wear his designs, whether socialite or starlet, know that fabric is carefully chosen, and structure specifically created to hide a multitude of sins and flatter just about any body. “I have always felt my role as a designer is to do the very best I can for a woman to make her look her best,” de la Renta has said. “Fashion is only fashion once a woman puts it on.” —VG 174 FT25 designers designers FT25 175 l e n a h C f o y s e t r u o C Karl Lagerfeld Mischief Maker Chanel and Fendi creative director Giorgio Armani Karl Lagerfeld has gone from a Red Carpet quiet, if slightly eccentric, designer Connoisseur to a full-on phenomenon. He’s a Giorgio Armani is one of few photographer, filmmaker and designers just as renowned for troublemaker, no stranger to menswear as he is womenswear. courting controversy. One has to He dresses Martin Scorsese, wonder if he’s serious when he Leonardo DiCaprio and refers to his sunglasses as George Clooney on the red carpet, “my burka,” admits that he admires but his first famous client was pornoraphy or says that it’s only fat, Richard Gere, who wore sleek chip-eating mothers who object Armani suits in American Gigolo . to skinny models. Lest we forget Fast-forward to 2008, when that until the early 2000s, he was Christian Bale’s Bruce Wayne constantly waving a Chinese fan in stepped out in Armani duds in front of his pudgy face. The The Dark Knight . Born in 1934 in German designer’s motivation for Northern Italy, Armani quit medical his 92-pound weight loss? Wanting school during his second year, to fit into Hedi Slimane’s trim because he couldn’t stand the sight black suits for Dior Homme.