North America’sThe LargestInside: Malls Pg. 11 WEITZMAN SELLS STAKE/3 PLAYBOY’S NEW BUNNY/12 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 30, 2005• $2.00 List Sportswear Shine On NEW YORK — Ralph Rucci turns up the glam for resort. Known for his clean, architectural looks, the designer softens up for resort with easy dresses for Chado Ralph Rucci. Here, an ombréd paillette sundress. For more on the season, see pages 6 and 7. Global Surfin’ Safari: Quiksilver Rides Wave In Europe and Far East By Emilie Marsh ANGLET, FRANCE — Forget about just Surfin’ USA. Surfwear has the potential to make waves across the globe, according to Bernard Mariette, president of Quiksilver, and his company is out to capitalize on the growth. “Europe is a motor for the sport,” said Mariette, in France earlier this month to launch a retail concept in this small coastal village near Biarritz. “[Quiksilver] has its roots in the United States, but it is a global brand now.” Mariette disclosed plans to open stores See Quiksilver’s, Page8 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL ™ Quiksilver has taken Europe by storm and plans to open stores as far afield as Eastern Europe, Poland and China. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 1 on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated Bear Stearns Merchant Banking has acquired a minority stake in Stuart 3 Weitzman Holdings LLC. CONJUNCTION FUNCTION FASHION: The latest in cruise collections from Chado Ralph Rucci, Alberta Ferretti and Moschino. Today’s styles marry fashion and performance 6 Roberto Cavalli has been tapped by Playboy Enterprises to design new bunny costumes. In today’s multi-functional world, women shirts,” states Alan Spielvogel, director of technical 12 demand a lot from the products that they buy – and services for the National Cleaners Association, a trade they make no exception for apparel. Finishes that group based in New York. “It’s not necessarily an EYE offer consumers wrinkle-resistance and water- expensive process, so consumers can find garments Nick Nolte unfiltered…Centrico, the latest eatery from Drew Nieporent repellency, to stain guarding and color maintenance, treated with these finishes without paying a significant 4 and Aaron Sanchez…plus a scoop. allow clothing to truly be put to work. premium.” Explains Norma Keyes, Cotton According to the Monitor, the Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 Incorporated director of fiber likelihood of a female consumer To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is quality research, “The beauty of purchasing a garment with wrinkle- [email protected], using the individual’s name. these garments is that they serve a resistance increased proportionally WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 dual functionality; they not only with income. Thirty-nine percent FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 189, NO. 137. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one repel stains, but have properties of female respondents with additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional that release soil. And wrinkle- an income under $25,000 stated issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., resistant shirts will certainly wear a that they had purchased an item Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill bit smoother than regular shirts, with this finish; those numbers Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- but they will also iron easily” increased to 56% and 66% in the President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at She adds, “Women are incredibly $25,000 to $49,000 and over additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, busy, they work, have obligations $50,000 segments, respectively. ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR and family commitments, and Functional finishes can also SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR “Women want a well-cut garment DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is they’re interested in making things help set a garment apart. “It often required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new easy for themselves when it comes with enhanced properties that feels like there’s a sea of sameness subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production ensure they’ll stay fresh in correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, to caring for their garments. These out there, so if you can offer a please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild finishes go a long way in helping appearance all day.” product that can stand out in terms magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully — Lisa Erickson, screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive them achieve that.” of performance, like skirts with these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Eddie Bauer WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED “Finishes are extremely popular,” perfect pleats, permanently creased MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND affirms Suzie Squier, a spokesperson with the Retail trousers, or jeans that can hold their color, it’s important TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Industry Leaders Association (RILA), an Arlington, to do that,” shares Stephen Hardy, a co-founder of TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Virginia-based trade organization. “Our members Plan B, a New York-based apparel company. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. conduct extensive consumer research, and the Hardy believes this so wholeheartedly that his bottom line is that women are looking to buy things company has created a line of unique finishes that that save them time. The easier the care, the better it help their jeans maintain their original integrity. is for women. Garments treated with these finishes “We’ve developed a process in our own factory that In Brief save time before and after wearing them, and look utilizes a number of artisanal finishes that not only sharp throughout the day.” help the denim to hold its color, but offer a beautiful ● sheen. You can wash them as many times as you like GROUP INITIATIVE: Clothing and textile manufacturing organ- But these garments are not just about function, izations Sistema Moda Italia and Associazione Tessile Italiana they can also pack a strong fashion punch. and they will always hold their rich hues.” said they are merging. The new entity has yet to be officially Adds Eddie Bauer spokesperson Lisa Erickson, “The good news is you can care for garments [with named, but will be operative as of Oct. 1. Paolo Zegna, president “First and foremost, women Have you purchased an item with the finishes] the same as you of Sistema Moda Italia, will head the new group, which compris- want to feel and look good. following attributes in the past year? would for others,” Spielvogel, es more than 1,800 member companies. Zegna and Tito Burgi, They’re going to buy a garment the technical expert, asserts. president of Associazione Tessile Italiana, said it is time for the for its style and if it has, say, Females 16-70 “They will wrinkle less, hold small companies that dominate Italy’s manufacturing industry to a wrinkle-resistant finish, Wrinkle-Resistance 54% off stains, and retain their work together in a tough environment characterized by the that’s all the better. Women Water-Repellency 35% original color better than strong euro and the emergence of China. “Over the last 12 want a well-cut garment with Stain-Resistance 35% untreated garments.” months, we have had to concentrate most of all on defending Anti-Microbial Treated 6% Women also use a variety of [ourselves]. Now we have to move on to programs, plans and enhanced properties that projects on the attack front,” Zegna said in a statement. ensure they’ll stay fresh in appearance all day,” she products to help them achieve the longest life and adds. Erickson notes that Eddie Bauer’s wrinkle- best appearance from their clothing. The Monitor ● LOGO’S LAUNCH: Logo TV, the first-ever 24-7 channel for gay, resistant line, which features tops and bottoms, is the reports that 62% of female respondents use fabric lesbian, bisexual and transgendered viewers, will hit cable and fastest growing segment of its women’s business.