UKRAINE JOURNAL A GENEALOGICAL JOURNEY TO WARSAW AND UKRAINE Dr.RonaldD.Doctor [email protected] PhotosbyRonaldD.DoctorandKennethJ.Doctor 10July2003 Copyright2002,2003,RonaldD.Doctor Allrightsreserved pageii Ukraine Journal:AGenealogical JourneytoWarsawand Ukraine T ABLE OF CONTENTS T ABLE OF FIGURES .......................................................................................................... V S ECTION 1: OVERVIEW & WARSAW OERVIEWV ..................................................................................................................... 1 STURDAYA , A UG US T 31 ST ................................................................................................ 3 ArrivinginWarsaw ..................................................................................................................................................3 SNDAYU , SE P T E MB E R 1 ST ................................................................................................. 6 KenarrivesinWarsaw .............................................................................................................................................6 MNDAYO , SE P T E MB E R 2 ND ............................................................................................... 7 TheJewishHistoricalInstitute ................................................................................................................................7 TheOld& New Synagogues ...................................................................................................................................8 Finishingtheday .......................................................................................................................................................11 TESDAYU , SE P T E MB E R 3 RD ............................................................................................... 12 MoreKremenetsdatafrom theJewishHistoricalInstitute ................................................................................12 TheAncientActsArchive(AGAD) ........................................................................................................................13 TheWarsawGhetto ..................................................................................................................................................15 Warsaw’soldJewishCemetery& theHolocaust Memorial...............................................................................17 Treblinka .....................................................................................................................................................................19 Excitingdiscoveryfinishestheday ........................................................................................................................22 WDNESDAYE , SE P T E MB E R 4TH .......................................................................................... 22 BacktoAGAD ...........................................................................................................................................................22 SECTION 2: OVER THE BORDER AND INTO UKRAINE L’VIV, TERNOPIL, KREMENETS, & NOVY OLEKSINETS WDNESDAYE , SE P T E MB E R 4TH .......................................................................................... 27 CrossingtheBorder ..................................................................................................................................................27 L’viv.............................................................................................................................................................................28 TURSDAYH , SE P T E MB E R 5 TH ............................................................................................. 29 Ternopil.......................................................................................................................................................................29 TheTernopilArchives ..............................................................................................................................................32 Kremenets–Firstvisit ..............................................................................................................................................35 FIDAYR , SE P T E MB E R 6TH .................................................................................................. 39 BacktotheTernopilArchives …AnotherExcitingDiscovery ..........................................................................39 TheJewishCommunityofTernopil,ErevRoshHashonah ................................................................................41 STURDAYA , SE P T E MB E R 7 TH ............................................................................................. 44 Kremenets ...................................................................................................................................................................44 NovyOleksinets ........................................................................................................................................................49 SNDAYU , SE P T E MB E R 8TH ................................................................................................. 56 BacktotheTernopilArchives …Again ................................................................................................................56 TheJewishCommunityofTernopilOblastrevisited ..........................................................................................57 pageiii Ukraine Journal:AGenealogical JourneytoWarsawand Ukraine TableofContents S ECTION 3: KIEV, UMAN AND ODESSA MNDAYO , SE P T E MB E R 9 TH ............................................................................................... 61 Ontheroadto Kiev ...................................................................................................................................................61 Kiev,theCentral State Historical Archives ...........................................................................................................63 TESDAYU , SE P T E MB E R 10 TH.............................................................................................. 65 AroundKiev …butnotfor me ...............................................................................................................................65 WDNESDAYE , SE P T E MB E R 11TH ......................................................................................... 67 UmananditsJewishcemeteries .............................................................................................................................67 S E PTEMBER 12 T H AND 13 TH ............................................................................................... 71 Beingatourist inOdessa..........................................................................................................................................71 OdessaArchives ........................................................................................................................................................76 Farewell toOdessa....................................................................................................................................................79 SECTION 4: RETURN TO TERNOPIL AND KREMENETS; YAMPOL & VISHNEVETS S ATURDAY & SUNDAY , SE P T E MB E R 14 T H AND 15 TH ............................................................ 83 Ontheroadagain…OdessatoTernopil ..............................................................................................................83 Yampol …anunexpectedsurprise.........................................................................................................................86 MNDAYO , SE P T E MB E R 16 TH .............................................................................................. 89 TheTernopilArchives …again ..............................................................................................................................89 Followupin Kremenets…theCemeteryProject .................................................................................................90 TheKremenetsJewishCommunity ........................................................................................................................92 Vishnevets ..................................................................................................................................................................92 TESDAYU , SE P T E MB E R 17 T H … H OME WAR D BOUND ........................................................... 94 L’vivtoFrankfurtviaWarsaw ................................................................................................................................94 Frankfurt .....................................................................................................................................................................95 ClearingGermanCustoms.......................................................................................................................................96 SECTION 5: SOME OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PREPARING FOR AND TRAVELING IN UKRAINE P ICKING A G UIDE , SE T T ING AN I TINERARY ...................................................................... 99 G E TTING A U KRAINIAN VISA .......................................................................................... 100 M E DICAL I SSUES ...........................................................................................................