THEUUARTERLY JOURNAL OF THE bEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA TABL OF CONTENTS 1993 Challenge Winners Letters FEATURE ARTICLE Jewels of the Edwardians Elise B. Misiorowski and Nancy 1Z. Hays A Prospectors' Guide Map to the Gem Deposits of Sri Lanka C. B. Dissanayuke and M.S. Rupasinghe Two Treated-Color Synthetic Red Diamonds Seen in the Trade Thomas M. Moses, llene Reinitz, Emmanuel Fritsch, and James E, Shigley Two Near-Colorless General Electric Type-IIa Synthetic Diamond Crystals James E. Shigley, Emmanuel Fritsch, and llene Reinitz REGULAR FEATURES Gem Trade Lab Notes Gem News Book Reviews Gemological Abstracts ABOUT THE COVER: I. Snowman's circa-1910 portrait of Her Royal Highness Queen Alexandra, consort of King Edward VII of England, shows the plethora of iew- elry worn by ladies from the royal and wealthy upper classes of Europe and America at the turn of the 20th century. Alexandra's neck is wrapped with a pearl choker and many pearl necl<laces:the longest sautoir is pinned up in a swag effect using a pearl- and-diamond brooch. The gauzy tullle that decorates her ddcolletage is held in place by pins and brooches of every size and type, including a diamond star burst, a cres- cent, and two ruby-and-diamond bow brooches on either side of her neckline. Note the gold snake bracelet adorning her left wrist. The lead article in this issue exam- ines the styles, materials, and motifs of the elegant jewels favored by the distinctive group known as the Edwardians, who reigned as the leaders of high fashion in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The painting is courtesy of A. Kenneth Snowman, Wartski, London. Typesetting for Gems o) Gemology is by Graphix Express, Santa Monica, CA. Color separations are by Effective Graphics, Compton, CA, Printing is by Waverly Press, Easton, MD. 0 1993 Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved ISSN 0016-626X EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Editor Contributing Editor STAFF Richard T. Lidclicoat Alice S. Keller John I. Koivula I660 Stewart St. Associate Editors Santa Monica, CA 90404 Editor, Gem Trade Lab Notes William E. Boyajian Telephone: (800)42 1-7250 x25 1 Editor, Gemological Abstracts Robert C. Kammerling C. W. Fryer D. Vincent Manson Editorial Assistant John Sinlcanlcas Denise Hey1 Editor, Book Reviews Susan B. Johnson Technical Editor Subscriptions Carol M. Stoclcton Gail Young Editors, Gem News Jin Lim John 1. Koivula Assistant Editor Telephone: (800)421 -7250 x201 Robert C. Kammerling IN Dierdorff FAX: (310) 453-4478 Emmanucl Fritsch PRODUCTION Art Director Production Artist Word Processor STAFF Lisa ]oko Carol Silver Ruth Piltchiclc EDITORIAL Robert Crowningshicld C. S. Hurlbut, Jr. Kurt Nassau REVIEW BOARD New York, NY Cambridge, MA PO. Lebanon, N/ Alan T Collins Robert C. Kammerling Ray Pagc London, United Kingdom Santa Monica, CA Santa Monica, CA Dennis Foltz Anthony R. Kan~pf George Rossman Santa Monica, CA Los Angeles, CA Pasadena, CA Emmanucl Fritsch Robert E. Kane Kenneth Scarratt Santa Monica, CA Lake Tahoe, NV Bangkok, Thailand C. W. Fryer John I. Koivula Karl Schn~etzer Santa Monica, CA Santa Monica, CA Petersluusen, Germany Henry Harmi Henry 0. A. Mcycr James E. Shigley Ziirich, Switzerland West Lafayette, IN Santa Monica, CA SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions in the U.S.A. arc priced as follows: $54.95 for one year (4 iss~ics],$134.95 for thee years (12 issues). Subscriptions sent elsewhere are $65.00 for one year, $165.00 for three ycars. Special annual subscription rates arc available for all students actively involved in a GIA program: $44.95 U.S.A., $55.00 elscwhere. Your student number must be listed at the time your subscription is entcrcd. Single issucs may be purchased for S14.00 in the U.S.A., $1 7.00 elsewhere. Discounts are given for bulk orders of 10 or more of any one issue. A limited number of back issucs of G&G are also available for purchase. Please address all inquiries regarding subscriptions and the purchase of single copies or back issues to the Sub- scriptions Department. To obtain a Japanese translation of Gems & Gcmology, contact the Association of Japan Gem Trust, Okactumachi Cy Bldg., 5-15-14 Ucno, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110, Japan. Our Canadian goods and service registration number is R126142892. MANUSCRIPT Gems ed Gemology welcomes the submission of aiticlcs on all aspects of the field. Please sec the suggestions for SUBMISSIONS authors in the Spring 1993 issue of the journal, or contact the editor for a copy. Letters on articles published in Gems e) Gemology and other relevant matters are also welcome. COPYRIGHT Abstracting is permitted with credit to the source. Libraries are permitted to photocopy beyond the limits of U.S. AND REPRINT copy~ightlaw for private use of patrons. Instructors are permittcil to photocopy isolated articles for noncommercial PERMISSIONS classroom use withoui fee. Copying of the photographs by any means other than traditional photocopying techniques (Xerox, etc.1 is prohibited without the express permission of the photographer (where listed) or author of the article in which the photo appears (where no photographer is listed]. For other copying, reprint, or republication permission, please contact the editor. Gems el Gemology 1s published quarterly by ihc Gemological Institute of America, a nonprofit educational orgiinization for [he jewelry industry, 1660 Stewart St., Santa Monica, CA 90404. Postmaster: Return undeliverable copies of Gems el Gemology to 1660 Stewart St., Santa Monica, CA 90404. Any opinions expressed in signed articles are understood to be the views of the authors and not of the publishers. 1993 Challenge Winners The Spring 1993 issue featured the seventh annual Gems o) Gemology Challenge, and our readers responded in record numbers, from all over the world. We are proud to list, below, the names of those who earned a perfect score. Rashed Al-Khalifa, Manama, Bahrain; Margaret L. Alexander, Mimbres, NM; Charles R. Allen, Lakewood, CO; Ronald M. Antolick, Drums, PA; Lorin E. Atkinson, McLean, VA; Ruth B. Avery, Bethesda, MD; Melanie Baccoli, Jackson, NJ; Sylvan J. Baranov, San Diego, CA; Alex Barcados, Toronto, Ont., Canada; Eileen Barone, Oaklawn, IL; James G. Bartlett, Longview, TX; Linda Anne Bateley, Tenterden, Kent, England; H. W. Beaty, Spokane, WA; Lauren L. Bechtol, Bryan, OH; Barry S. Belenke, Miami, FL; Rebecca Ann Bell, Joshua Tree, CA; Sharon Berghaus, Fairview Park, OH; Gary S. Bergstein, Aurora, Ont., Canada; Fred G. Billcoclz, Victoria, BC, Canada; George L. Blair, Houston, TX; Anne Blumer, Bloomington, IL; Josef Bogacz, Idar-Oberstein, Germany; Rudiger M. Boslzovic, Armidale, NSW, Australia; Mark Neil Brewster, Harare, Zimbabwe; Frederik H. Brims, Tucson, AZ; Ann L. Byers, Shannon, IL; Alinir Rodriglies Cardoso, Kaohsiung, Taiwan, ROC; Michael J. P. Cavanagh, Vancouver, BC, Canada; Ka Lung Chan, Kowloon, Hong Kong; Nancy J. Chen, Arcadia, CA; Yvette I. Clevish, Missoula, MT; Michael A. Coffey, Port Charlotte, FL; Wanda Miller Cooper, Lexington, KY; Fontaine F. Cope, Lamesa, TX; Connie Copeland, Abilene, TX; Lisa M. Corio, Rochester, NY; Carol Costen, Nashua, NH; Gregory J. Cunninghain, Rye, NY; Roger Davidson, Cooperstown, NY; Lorna 0. Davison, Mullica Hill, NJ; Daniel Demas, Longmeadow, MA; Anthony de Goutiere, Victoria, BC, Canada; Douglas P. DeHaven, Paris, TX; Folkert H.'De Jong, Victoria, BC, Canada; Daniel Demas, Longmeadow, MA; Charlene DeVries, Holland, MI; Jon Barry Dinola, Yardley, PA; Lorraine D, Dodds,Greensboro, NC; Terry B. Drake, Pinole, CA; Dolores Dunlzer, Freinont, NE; Bela Dvorcsalz, Carteret, NJ; Luella Dykhuis, Golden, CO; Sharon Edelman, Gahanna, OH; Michele F. Edgcomb, Melbourne, FL; Evelyn A. Elder, Clackamas, OR; Patricia L. Eliclzer, York, PA; Richard P. Ellis, Missoula, MT; Sandra Rose Engeberg, Los Angeles, CA; Frank Ernst, Scottsdale, AZ; Ed Fasnacht, Logansport, IN; Patrick J. Fazio, Jr., Camarillo, CA; Gavreal Feder, Clayton, MO; Jim Ferguson, Ailzen, SC; Mark A. Ferreira, Mandeville, LA; William W. Fleischinann, Seaford, NY; Diane Flora, San Diego, CA; John R. Florian, Fair Oaks, CA; James A. Fogelberg, Sacramento, CA; Betty Lu Frost, Longinont, CO; Amaya Garin, Madrid, Spain; Benito Giacintucci, Florence, Italy; Wilma van der Giessen,Voorburg, Netherlands; Louis J. Ginsberg, Damascus, MD; Karen Diane Gray, Pompano Beach, FL; Alexander Grishlzo, St. Petersburg, FL; Sue Angevine Guess, De Land, FL; Phyllis M. Gunn, Spokane, WA; Helen Haddy, Coogee, W. Aust., Australia; S. Lee Hall, Winston-Salem, NC; Stephen H. Hall, Kennewiclz, WA; Ron G. Hanania, Calgary, Alta., Canada; Gary R. Hansen, St. Louis, MO; Anne E. Hardy, Saslzatoon, SKI Canada; Gail Harrington, Newinarlzet, Ont., Canada; Martin D. Haske, Woburn, MA; James W.M. Heatlie, Edinburgh, Scotland; Hayo W. Heckman, The Hague, Netherlands; John E. Heldridge, Edmonds, WA; Joyce Henderson, Palo Alto, CA; Belinda Hendley, Tyler, TX; Donn Henley, Eldon, MO; Franklin Herman, West Des Moines, IA; John F. Heusler, St. Louis, MO; Maria Isabel Cereijo Hierro, Madrid, Spain; Lorraine J. Hilleshiem, Sun Prairie, WI; Virginia Bronzi Hilton, S. Freeport, ME; Maren Hirsch, Dallas, TX; Werner R. Hoehne, San Francisco, CA; Jerry L. Holt, Kodiak, AK; Harold E. Holzer, Cape Coral, FL; P. Horninge, Amsterdam, Netherlands; Alan R. Howarth, Braintree, MA; Paul D. Indorf, New Haven, CT; R. Fred Ingrain, Tampa, FL; William Iwan, Albuquerque, NM; Gretchen Jaeger, Twentynine Palms, CA; John W. Jaeger, Bloomington, IL; William A. Jeffery, Westport, CT; Mary C. Jensen, Toledo, OH; Joyce G. Jessen, Western Springs, IL; Jerry Johnson, Kennewick, WA; David A. Keith, Armidale, NSW, Australia; Helen Klages, Orlando, FL; Molly K. Knox, Colorado Springs, CO; Marjorie Kos, City Island, NY; John Koziclzi, Glenview, IL; Wiraman Kurniawan, Medan, Indonesia; Sherrie E. Kysilka, Indianapolis, IN; Thomas Larsson, Jarfalla, Sweden; Consuelo Laspra- Garcia, Oviedo, Spain; Bert J. Last, Sydney, NSW, Australia; Becky Sue Laszlo, Aliquippa, PA; Frieder H. Lauer, Houston, TX; William A. Lavender, Pelham, AL; Guy-Anne Lavictoire, Montreal, Que., Canada; Martin Lepold, Mainz, Germany; Dorothy Lewis, Richboro, PA; Gloria Lillie, Singleton, NSW, Australia; David R.