BEST OF THE ITALIAN 1 ISLANDS all it a cop-out, but the only category I can’t bring myself to cover in this chapter is “Best Island.” Wildly Cdiverse in landscape, size, and atmosphere, each of the Italian islands has its own superlative features, which I’ve culled and compiled into the categories listed below. If your vision of an Italian island vacation is playing on a sandy beach, you’ll find a carefully edited list of the best beaches right here. Perhaps nightlife is a priority, or art and history, or romance, or food and wine, or being one of the first to “discover” an island that’s still untouched by international tourism, or doing nothing at all. I’ve presented my favorites for all these themes and more in this section, so that you can head straight for the all-stars in each category without wasting precious vacation time on the also-rans. Here’s hoping you also find your own personal collection of “best” experiences while you’re at it. THE best BEACHES W Spiaggia dei Conigli (Lampedusa): Simply cresting the hill of the hik- ing path that leads to this beach and beholding Spiaggia dei Conigli—a glorious crescent of sugary white sand—and its wide bay of swimming pool–like water may be the highlight of a trip to far-flung Lampedusa. The water here is shallow and always warm, and you can swim or wade the short distance to Isola dei Conigli islet, in the middle of the bay. W Biodola (Elba): Sugary white sand that extends for 600m (1,969 ft.), a gentle offshore grade, and abundant services make this the best all- purpose sandy beach on Elba. The calm and shallow water is ideal for families with kids. W Citara (Ischia):COPYRIGHTED Buzzy social atmosphere meets MATERIALdramatic headlands at this well-trod beach south of Forio. Combine your beach time with a thermal water experience at the Giardini Poseidon open-air spa, which occupies about a third of the coastline here. West-facing Citara has the best sunsets on Ischia. W Punta Molentis (Sardinia): The beaches of Sardinia are in a league of their own. Sand is never in short supply, and the water has the color and clarity normally associated with Caribbean islands. Punta Molentis is a delicious slice of paradise near Villasimius, where a narrow isthmus, 004_9780470503386-ch01.indd4_9780470503386-ch01.indd 1 11/20/11/20/11 88:38:38 PMPM bathed by beautiful water and fringed by sand on both sides, connects to a moun- 1 tainous promontory. A lovely little thatched-umbrella snack bar completes the postcard image. W Cala Sinzias (Sardinia): Near the popular flour-sand beach district of Costa Rei, but just far enough away to be blissfully uncrowded even in August, Cala Sinzias is a bit of the South Pacific right here in southeastern Sardinia. Fine beige sand seamlessly blends with the gentlest of crystal-clear breakers, and most of the beach is backed by a fragrant eucalyptus wood. W La Pelosa (Sardinia): At the northwestern tip of Sardinia, La Pelosa is an extra- planetary seascape where the water achieves the most astonishing colors, from dappled grey to neon turquoise, that change with the position of the sun. The sandy bay is no deeper than knee height for hundreds of meters, as clear as rubbing alcohol and always calm, making it popular with families. W Tuerredda (Sardinia): Of all the stretches of sand around beach-blessed Chia, none is more spectacular than Tuerredda. It’s the stuff of island magazine cover photos, with leopard spots of indigo and electric aqua in a secluded bay with its own little islet, snow-white sand, and the brawny, green terrain of southwestern Sardinia all around. W Liscia Ruja (Sardinia): Also known as “Long Beach,” this is the unofficial head- The Best Places to Swim That Aren't Beaches Aren't That Swim to Places Best The quarters of the Costa Smeralda beach scene and the place to be for movers and shakers (when they aren’t out on a yacht). This beach is highly recommended for anyone in northeastern Sardinia who simply wants a wide expanse of golden sand, tourmaline water, and excellent people-watching. THE best PLACES TO SWIM THAT AREN’T BEACHES W La Cattedrale (Palmarola): On the northern tip of this practically virgin island, craggy cliffs plunge to the sea, and three side-by-side sea caves have earned the nickname “the Cathedral” for their striking resemblance to Gothic arches. The shimmering emerald waters just outside La Cattedrale are a favorite place for boat- trippers to dive in and glory in this little slice of Robinson Crusoe, just 20 minutes BEST OF THE ITALIAN ISLANDS OF THE ITALIAN BEST from Ponza and only 97km (60 miles) from Rome. W Cala Bianca (Marettimo): The most remote island in the Egadi is short on beaches but big on gorgeous coves and grottoes that can be accessed only by sea. At Cala Bianca, a white rock wall continues underneath the water surface, imparting an opalescent tone to the cove. It’s yet another example of the unending permutations of Mediterranean blue. W Cala Rossa (Favignana): Its name may translate as “Red Cove” (from bloodshed here during the First Punic War btw. Rome and Carthage in the 3rd c. b.c.), but the colors here are grey and pale turquoise. Cala Rossa was once Favignana’s most active quarry, and pillars and walls of the native grey stone stand as the other- worldly backdrop to this shallow bay. Brave the rocky entrance to swim in waters as clear and light as anything in the Caribbean. W Vasca Giulia (Santo Stefano-Ventotene): On the classic day trip from Ventotene to historic prison island Santo Stefano, make sure your boat captain includes a visit to the Roman-era “Jacuzzi” that belonged to the imperial villa here. A hand-dug pool in the smooth rock of Santo Stefano’s coastline, “Julia’s Tub” is connected to the sea by narrow channels that allow the surging surf to come in at concentrated strength, 2 004_9780470503386-ch01.indd4_9780470503386-ch01.indd 2 11/20/11/20/11 88:38:38 PMPM creating the earliest known hydromassage jets. Not bad technology for the 1st cen- tury a.d., and yes, you can jump right in and feel the flow just like the ancients did. 1 W Grotte di Pilato (Ponza): It isn’t every day you can swim—for free—in a Roman ISLANDS OF THE ITALIAN BEST sea cave that was built for the express purpose of raising eels for the imperial din- ner table. The so-called grottoes of Pilate are wonderfully atmospheric vaulted chambers with niches and underwater tunnels used to corral eels from one tank to another. The caves are just a short hop by boat from the island’s main port, and thankfully, the morays are long gone from this spot. W Specchio di Venere (Pantelleria): The bright and warm turquoise water of this volcanic crater lake really stands out on an island known for its rough black lava shores and dark blue seas. “Venus’s Mirror” gets its eerily luminescent color from grey volcanic mud on the lake floor. The sulfuric mud is purported to have certain health benefits (though it stinks like rotten eggs), and it’s common practice to slather yourself with mud on one side of the lake and rinse off on the opposite shore. Even Madonna has taken part in this classic Pantelleria ritual. W The Blue Grotto (Capri): The most famous sea cave in the world, tinged Windex- blue by refraction of the sun’s rays beneath the water, is normally visited as part of Atmosphere Party Best The an overpriced (though very fun) boat trip, but it’s a little known fact that you can also forgo the boats and just swim yourself in. Wait until all the tour boats have left—about 5pm in summer—and make sure the water is very calm. The cave entrance is a bit hairy, so it’s a good idea to go in a group; but once you’re in and surrounded by the extraordinarily lit water, it’ll be the most memorable paddling and treading of your life. THE best PARTY ATMOSPHERE W The Costa Smeralda (Sardinia): Titans of industry and television starlets collide at the over-the-top discos of this luxury enclave in northeastern Sardinia. Paparazzi stalk canoodling celebrity neo-couples on the back of yachts and on beaches like Liscia Ruja. For the rest of us, there are also beachfront bars that welcome the plebes for gorgeous sunsets and impromptu dance parties. W Ponza: The nightly ritual may be a bit repetitive—boat shuttle to Frontone beach for aperitivo, people-watching, and shopping promenade along Corso Pisacane, then a late dinner at one of the fish restaurants lining the marina—but Ponza’s fun-loving energy is hard to resist. W Panarea: After a day out on the water, vacationers on the most hedonistic of the Aeolian islands head straight for the buzzing drink scene at several waterfront bars and boutique-hopping in San Pietro village. When darkness falls, hit the shower and swap your bathing suit for a carefully assembled boho-chic ensemble and hit the open-air disco at the Hotel Raya. It’s where everyone on Panarea congregates to dance and misbehave under the stars. W Capri: This fabled jewel of the Mediterranean may not be the jet-set magnet it was several decades ago, but there is still a high celebrity quotient on Capri and an infectious sense of glamour at the bars on the famed Piazzetta.