©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Crete Hania p54 Rethymno p104 Iraklio p143 Lasithi p188 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Alexis Averbuck, Kate Armstrong, Korina Miller, Richard Waters PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Crete . 4 HANIA . 54 Argyroupoli . 117 Crete Map . 6 Hania . 56 The Hinterland & Mt Psiloritis . .. 119 Crete’s Top 15 . 8 East of Hania . 69 Moni Arkadiou . 119 Akrotiri Peninsula . 69 Need to Know . 16 Eleftherna . 121 Aptera . 71 First Time Crete . 18 Margarites . 121 Armenoi & Around . 71 Perama to Anogia . 122 If You Like… . 20 Almyrida . 71 Anogia . 123 Month by Month . 22 Vamos . 72 Mt Psiloritis . 124 Itineraries . 24 Gavalohori . 72 Coast to Coast . 125 Outdoor Activities . 32 Georgioupoli . 73 Armeni . 125 Lake Kournas . 73 Eat & Drink Spili . 125 Like a Local . 41 Vryses . 74 Southern Coast . 126 Travel with Children . 49 Southwest Coast & Sfakia . 74 Plakias . 127 Regions at a Glance . .. 51 Askyfou . 75 Preveli . 130 Imbros Gorge . 75 Beaches Between Plakias & Agia Galini . 131 Frangokastello . 76 Agia Galini . 132 CREATAS IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / IMAGES CREATAS Hora Sfakion . 77 Northeastern Coast . 133 Loutro . 79 Panormo . 133 Agia Roumeli . 80 Bali . 135 Sougia . 81 Lissos . 83 Paleohora . 83 IRAKLIO . 143 Elafonisi . 88 Iraklio . 146 Hrysoskalitissas . 88 Around Iraklio . 157 Gavdos Island . 89 Knossos . 157 Lefka Ori West of Iraklio . 162 VENETIAN HARBOUR, & Samaria Gorge . 91 Agia Pelagia . 162 RETHYMNO P107 Hania to Omalos . 91 Fodele . 162 Omalos . 92 Arolithos . 162 Samaria Gorge . 94 Central Iraklio . 163 ALAN BENSON / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / BENSON ALAN Northwest Coast . 95 Arhanes & Around . 163 Innahorion Villages . 96 Iraklio Wine Country . 165 Falasarna . 97 Myrtia . 166 Gramvousa Peninsula . 98 Thrapsano . 167 Kissamos (Kastelli) . 100 Zaros . 167 Polyrrinia . 101 Southern Iraklio . 170 Rodopou Peninsula . 102 Gortyna . 170 Phaestos . 172 RETHYMNO . 104 Agia Triada . 173 Matala . 174 DAKOS P43 Rethymno . 106 West of Rethymno . 117 Lendas . 180 Contents UNDERSTAND Crete Today . 222 FREEARTIST / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / FREEARTIST History . 224 The Cretan Way of Life . 237 Minoan Art & Culture . 242 The Arts . 246 Nature & Wildlife . 251 SURVIVAL MONI ARKADIOU P119 GUIDE Kapetaniana . 181 Psyhro . 203 Directory A–Z . 254 Northeastern Coast . 182 Dikteon Cave . .. 204 Transport . 262 Gournes & Around . 182 Northeastern Coast . 204 Hersonisos . 182 Gournia . 204 Language . 269 Malia . 184 Mohlos . 204 Index . 278 Sitia . 206 Map Legend . 287 LASITHI . 188 Moni Toplou . 209 Northern Coast . 189 Eastern Coast . 210 Agios Nikolaos . 189 Vaï . 210 Kritsa . 197 Itanos . 210 Elounda . 199 Palekastro . 210 Kolokytha Peninsula . 201 Zakros & Kato Zakros . 211 Plaka . 201 Xerokambos . 215 Milatos . 202 Southern Coast . 215 SPECIAL FEATURES Lasithi Plateau . 202 Ierapetra . 215 Tzermiado . 203 Myrtos . 219 Outdoor Activities . 32 Agios Georgios . 203 Eat & Drink Like a Local . 41 Palace of Knossos 3D illustration . 158 Minoan Art & Culture . 242 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24 CARSTEN MADSEN / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / MADSEN CARSTEN Plan Your Trip Itineraries Hania SEA OF CRETE #• É Rethymno É É #• É Iraklio #• Margarites #• É É É #• Samaria #• Gorge #•Moni Argyroupoli Palace of Knossos Arkadiou #• #• Loutro É #• Spili Iraklio Wine Country É #• #• #• Agia #f Hora Roumeli Sfakion Agia #• É Triada Moni Preveli & Preveli Beach #•Vori É #• É Kalamaki #• #• #• Kommos #• Gortyna LIBYAN SEA Phaestos 2 WEEKS Essential Crete enjoying the fruits of the Iraklio Wine Bookended by two of Crete’s great Country, where 70% of Crete’s wine is pro- cities, this route is a roller-coaster duced, and which is dotted with wineries. ride through the natural wonders Next, stake out a base near Matala to com- of mountain and sea, and several bine trips to Gortyna, the former capital of Crete’s most famous historical of Roman Crete, as well as the grand treasures. You’ll also get to soak up Minoan palaces of Phaestos and Agia Venetian architecture, and feast on both Triada. The outstanding Cretan cultural museum at and swimming at wide, mountain-village and seafront cuisine. Vori sandy Kommos and Kalamaki beaches round out the area’s offerings. Start in bustling Iraklio, checking out the superb museums and soaking up its cafe Travelling west, lunch in the quaint culture, before heading to the Palace of village of Spili, home to several excellent Knossos where the mysterious Minoans tavernas creating traditional Cretan cui- ruled about 4000 years ago. Spend a day sine. Then drive (or hike the Kourtaliotiko 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES Venetian lighthouse (p56), Hania Gorge) to Moni Preveli, a working mon- a romantic Venetian harbour and astery on a hill with sweeping views of the atmosphere- laden pedestrianised quar- Libyan Sea, and picture-postcard Preveli ters. When you’ve had your fill of this Beach down below. Start week two by historic beauty, take the early bus to heading north to soulful Rethymno, Samaria Gorge and trek one of Europe’s where you can spend two days wandering most famous canyons to the beachfront the maze of Venetian lanes and another terminus at the small hamlet of Agia exploring the countryside, perhaps steer- Roumeli. Stay over or catch a boat to ing towards the pottery village of Marga- Loutro, to spend the night in this quaint rites, the peaceful Moni Arkadiou, site harbour accessible only on foot or by boat. of momentous historical events, or the Next morning, take the boat to Hora cool natural spring oasis at the mountain Sfakion where you can have a seafood village of Argyroupoli. lunch and the local cheese-stuffed-crêpe For a taste of the west stay in Hania, speciality, and then loop back to Hania. a lively modern city wrapped around 26 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES SEA OF CRETE É É Balos #• Hania #• #f Kissamos #• Falasarna É É É É Rethymno É #• Anogia Iraklio É É #• É #• É #• É #• #• Imbros É Gorge #• #• Elafonisi Argyroupoli Moni Palace of Hora É Arkadiou Knossos #• #• Sfakion #•Plakias R Frangokastello É Mt Psiloritis #• (Mt Idi) Preveli (2456m) Beach LIBYAN SEA 27 GARETH MCCORMACK / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / MCCORMACK GARETH 10 DAYS Central to West Crete This trip presents you with the mother lode PLAN YOUR TRIP of soul-stirring attractions, including the unspoiled southern coast, higgledy-piggledy mountain villages, Crete’s best beaches, and spirit-lifting culture in Crete’s two most attractive towns, Rethymno and Hania. Kick off your trip in , taking in the Ar- Iraklio IT chaeological Museum and imposing fortress, I NERAR and swinging out to the Palace of Knossos, before steering west to quaint Anogia, where ancient traditions and Cretan music thrive at I the foot of Mt Psiloritis. Continue west via the ES pottery village of Margarites to Moni Arka- diou, the site of one of the bloodiest moments in Crete’s struggle for independence from the Turks. Spend the next day in stately Rethymno, taking your sweet time ambling around its be- witching mix of Turkish and Venetian buildings. From Rethymno push on to the southern coast, where the lively beach town of Plakias makes an ideal base for exploring nearby se- cluded beaches, including palm-studded Prev- eli Beach, stunningly located at the mouth of a rugged gorge.Heading west, make a pit stop at the seaside fortress of Frangokastello before zipping over to Hora Sfakion, where you can hop on a boat to explore the remote villages GEORGE PAPAPOSTOLOU PHOTOGRAPHER / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / PHOTOGRAPHER PAPAPOSTOLOU GEORGE along this beautiful stretch of coast for a day (or two!). Continue north from Hora Sfakion towards the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) and make time for a hike through spectacu- lar Imbros Gorge. Continue to the northern coast and linger a night or two in Hania, with its beautiful harbour, grand fortress and ambience- packed old town. From here you can explore the far western reaches of Crete. Take the circular route south- west via Kolymbari and the Innahorion villages to the westernmost tip of the island at Elafoni- si, which beckons with pink-shimmering sandy beaches. Pushing back north via the coastal road, continue the beach theme at broad Fala- sarna with its rolling waves, or detour to the Gramvousa Peninsula’s spectacular lagoon-like beach at Balos, which you’ll most likely access by day-boat from Kissamos. Returning back to Iraklio via Hania, consider making a quick detour to the springs of Top: Plakias (p127) Argy- Bottom: Balos beach (p99) roupoli before taking the coastal road east of Rethymno via peaceful Panormo and busy Bali. 28 DONATELLA BALDI / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / BALDI DONATELLA 1 WEEK Around Iraklio PLAN YOUR TRIP Iraklio is a big, busy city, but it can be a useful base from which to access many of Crete’s most famous sights, even without your own vehicle. Or if you have wheels and your budget allows, stay in Arhanes in the nearby Iraklio Wine Country, to make these looping day trips. IT I Crete’s largest city, offers top-notch NERAR Iraklio museums, a Venetian fortress, a colourful street market, lively nightlife and excellent dining. I While there, make sure you visit the beautifully ES renovated and curated Heraklion Archaeo- logical Museum so that you’ll be prepared for Crete’s grandest Minoan palace. Drive or hop on a bus for the quick ride to the world-famous Palace of Knossos for a full-scale introduction to Minoan society, partially reconstructed. On another day, apply what you’ve learned on a visit to the Palace of Malia, another Minoan site, and some people’s favourite, with sweeping sea views. You can then explore small mountain villages by zigzagging through tiny Krasí to Kerá, which is home to the revered Panagia Kardiotissa monastery, with its 14th-century frescoes and holy icon.