Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028551319 NICOSIA. S. CATHARINE'S CHURCH. A DESCRIPTION OF THE Historic iftlonuments of Cyprus. STUDIES IN THE ARCHEOLOGY AND ARCHITECTURE OF THE ISLAND WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM MEASURED DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS. BT GEORGE JEFFERY, F.S.A., Architect. * * * * CYPRUS: Printed by William James Archer, Government Printer, At the Government Printing Office, Nicosia. 1918. CONTENTS. ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece. S. Catharine's Church facing Title . Page Arms of Henry VIII. or England on an Old Cannon . 1 Arms of de L'Isle Adam on an Old Cannon St. Catherine's Church, Nicosia, South Side Plan of Nicosia Town St. Catherine's Church, Nicosia, Plan . „ ,, „ Section Arms of Renier on Palace, Famagusta . Sea Gate and Cidadel, Famagusta Citadel of Famagusta, Elevations ,. Plans Famagusta Fortifications, The Ravelin Ancient Plan of a Ravelin Famagusta Fortifications, Moratto Bastion ,, „ Sea Gate ,, „ St. Luca Bastion St. George the Latin, Famagusta, Section Elevation Plan Plan of Famagusta Gates of Famagusta Church of Theotokos, Galata „ Paraskevi, Galata „ Archangelos, Pedoulas Trikukkia Monastery. Church of Archangelos, Pedoulas Panayia, Tris Elijes Plan of Kyrenia Castle Bellapaise, General Plan . „ Plan of Refectory „ Section of Refectory „ Pulpit in Refectory St. Nicholas, Perapedi Ay. Mavra, Kilani Panayia, Kilani The Fort at Limassol, Plan . SHOET BIBLIOGEAPHY. The Principal Books on Cyprus Archeology and Topography. Amadi, F. Chronicle (1190-1438) Paris, 1891. Bordone, B. Isolario Venice, 1528. Bruyn, C. de, Voyage (1683-1693) London, 1702. Bustron, F. Chronicle (1560). Edit. Mas Latrie Paris, 1884. Cesnola, Alex. di. Various works 1881-1887. Cesnola, Louis di. Various works 1870-1884. Chambeelayne. Lacrimce Nicossienses Paris, 1894. Clarke, E. Travels London, 1823. Cotovtcus, J. Itinerarium Antwerp, 1619. Drummond, A. Travels . London, 1754. Enlart, C. L'Art Gothique en Chypre Paris, 1899. Faber, F. Evagatorium (1484). Pal. Pil. Text Society London, 1884. Hackett, Rev. J. The Church of Cyprus London, 1900. Haimendorf, F. von. Itinerarium (1566) Nuremburg, 1621 Hasselqttist. Travels London, 1766. Heyman. Travels London, 1759. Hogarth, D. Devia Cypria London, 1889. Huen, N. le. Pelerinage (1487) Lyon, 1488. Jauna, D. Histoire de Chypre . Leiden, 1747. Kyprianos, Archimandrite. History Venice, 1788. Lusignano, S. di. Chorograffia Bologna, 1573. Mas Latrie, de, R. Various works 1844-1894. Mach^era, L. Chronicle (1458). Edit. Sathas Paris, 1882. Mariti. Travels London, 1791. Navarre, P. de. Oestes des Chyprois. (XIII. cent.) Soc. L'Or. Lat Paris, 1887. Paruta, P. History, (1605) translated by Lord Mon mouth London, 1658. Piacenza, F. L'Egeo Bedivivo . Modena, 1688. Pococke, R. Description of the East London, 1745. PoRCACcm, T. Isolario Venice, 1576. Queen, le, M. Oriens Christianus Paris, 1740. Rey, E. Various works 1869-1880. Ross, L. Travels HaUe, 1846. Saige, Le, J. Voyage Cambrai, 1520. Sandys, G. Travels London, 1615. Sathas, C. H. Hagiology of Cyprus. Paris, 1884. Simoni, C. de. Documents. Soc. L'Or. Lat. Paris, 1894. Smtbnoff, Y. Mosaics in Cyprus Petrograd, 1897. Strambaldi, D. Chronicle 1099-1458) Paris, 1891. Stubbs, Bp. W. Lectures Oxford, 1878. Sttchen, L. de. Itinerarium (1335) Paris, 1884. Thevet, A. Cosmographie (1554) Lyon, 1554. Turner, W. Journal London, 1H20. Willibband of Oldenburg. Perigrinatio. P.P.T. Soc. London, 1873, MONUMENTS OF CYPRUS. Manuscript Plans. Manuscript maps and drawings of the island abound in the Portulanos of the middle ages but they convey little information as to its internal geography. One of the most interesting of these is the Portulano of Agnese in Bib., S. Marc, Ven., of the XlVth century. II. ANCIENT DIVISION OF THE COUNTRY. The earliest local administration of Cyprus of which we have positive historical evidence is that of the mediseval feudal kingdom. Under the Byzantine, Roman, and earlier governments the island was ranked as a " Theme," or a " Senatorial province," or by some other title usual at the period, and administered accordingly. The feudal kingdom of European character was established in the island in the XHth century ; it was apparently divided into twelve baronial counties. The Venetian Administration of Cyprus, appointed by the Signory of the Republic, took over the government of the island without in any way changing its territorial or local arrangements. The division of the land into fiefs was retained from the former feudal kingdom, but many, if not most of these fiefs, seem to have been changed from hereditary into life-tenures, or appoint- ments. It would appear that in addition to certain feudatories of the mediaeval kingdom, such as the Count of Tripoli whose posses- sions lay in the neighbourhood of Aschio (modern Asha), the family of Perez, Counts of Carpasso, and others, the greater baronies were continued as districts administered by officials called " Civi- tani " or Captains appointed much in the manner of modern district commissioners. In each of the villages of a district was stationed a " Castellano " (the modern " mukhtar.") The twelve baronial counties represented to some extent the fifteen " Nahiehs " of the Turkish arrangement of modern days. Carpasso (premier barony of the kingdom held hereditarily by the Griustiniani family of Venice, heirs of the Perez). Nicosia (the city of Nicosia and a radius of nine miles around). Pamagusta (the city with six miles around). Limassol. Paffo (held hereditarily by the Contarini family of Venice). Cerines (modern Kyrenia). 1 m S tJ ? 1 (probably representing the modern Larnaca district.) Messaria. Avdimu. Crusocco (modern Khrysokhou). Pentaia (probably representing the modern Nahiehs of Lefka and Morfu, the Bay of Morfu is still sometimes called the Bay of Pentaia). — INTRODUCTION Where these baronies continued hereditary the " Fattore " or Captain would be appointed by the noble family resident in Venice. Mcosia was administered by a " Viscount," appointed bien- nially by the " Eettori." The local " Captain " of Limassol was also appointed by the " Eettori," but the Captains of Famagusta, Paffo, Salines, and Cerines were appointed direct from Venice. The supreme administration consisted of a Lieutenant-Governor and his two " Consiglieri " who were called the " Eettori " of the kingdom. The " Proveditore "* (military administrator) and two " Eecevetori " (Eeceivers General) completed the council of six which replaced the former Eoyal Court with its Constable, Senes- chal, Chamberlains, etc. All the members of the Council of six resided in Mcosia with the exception of the Proveditore, whose ruined palace still stands in the centre of Famagusta. A curious ceremony was observed every year on Christmas eve. On that day the feudal court of the ancient kingdom of Cyprus and Jeru- salem was held in Mcosia by the two Eeceivers General, repre- senting the feudal lordship over the island of the Serene Eepublic. Certain of the feudatories still did homage as in the days of the Lusignans with symbolic presentations of spurs, capons, falcons, etc. The division of the island into counties according to the medi- aeval feudal system seems to have been retained by the Turks until the beginning of the XVIIIth century, the only difference being the substitution of a district of Sivori in place of the two counties of Messaria and Famagusta. This arrangement is represented on a map of " Le Beylerbeylick ou Gouvernement de l'Isle de Chypre, a Paris par le Sr. Moullart Sanson MDCCXX." Under the Turkish administration of the island in the XVIIIth century, Cyprus was divided into sixteen administrative districts. (M. de Vezin, H.B.M. Consul for Aleppo and Cyprus, 1776-1792). These were subsequently reduced to six in number : 4. Famagusta 1. Mcosia . 2. Larnaca 5. Paphos (Ktima) 3. Limassol 6. Kyrenia. Mcosia, Famagusta and Kyrenia, which belong to the eastern division of the island are still full of the interest which attaches to their mediaeval history and foundation. They still possess imposing monuments of an artistic value, and present a mediaeval aspect in spite of the disastrous wars to which Cyprus was subject during the later middle ages. With the three other towns of Larnaca, Limassol, and Paphos of mediaeval it is far otherwise. In addition to the devastation warfare and the Turkish conquest, earthquakes seem to have affected at all times the western division of Cyprus much more of Proveditori in the * This officer was only occasionally appointed, see list Chronology. MONUMENTS OF CYPRUS. than its eastern shores. The earthquakes of later times, as far as they are recorded, seem to have been very prevalent during the Venetian occupation of the XVIth century, and at this time the shocks which so much injured the cathedral of Nicosia, probably laid the western towns in complete ruin. In 1735, an earthquake is said to have killed 200 Turks in St. Sophia, Famagusta, (Drum- mond). III. MODERN DISTEICTS AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS. Nicosia District. During the mediaeval Latin occupation of Cyprus the district surrounding Nicosia, the capital of the island, was known as the " Viscontado di Nicosia." It embraced an area within three leagues, or nine miles, of the city, and corresponded to some extent with the present Nahiehs of Deyrmenlik and Dagh. The " Vis- contado " survived on the French maps until so late as 1720. Nicosia