Ceramics Final Study Guide

Ceramics Final Study Guide

<p>Ceramics Final Study Guide 2016-2017 Mrs. Daniels</p><p>Vocabulary</p><p>Leather Hard: Clay that has never been fired and is hard to the touch, but still has moisture.</p><p>Greenware: Clay that has never been fired in a kiln.</p><p>Bone Dry : Greenware clay that does not have moisture.</p><p>Slip: Clay that has water added to it and resembles a paste.</p><p>Score and Slip: Scratching the clay and adding a layer of slip to help attach new pieces of clay.</p><p>Slab: Clay that has been rolled out into a flat form for hand building.</p><p>Coil: Clay that has been rolled into a long cylindrical form used for hand building. </p><p>Underglaze: A colored clay slip body that is applied to leather hard greenware before the first firing to add color. </p><p>Bisqueware: Clay that has been fired once at 04 temperature.</p><p>Glaze: A vitreous material applied to bisqueware clay. </p><p>Low Fire Temperature: Any temperature firing in a kiln between the range of cone 010-01.</p><p>High Fire: Any temperature firing in a kiln between the range of cone 1-10 Low Fire: Any temperature kiln firing in the range of 01 - 022</p><p>Cone: A pyramid form used in kilns to help determine kiln temperature. </p><p>Stilts: Kiln furniture that allows a glazed piece on all sides to float above the shelf preventing the artwork from fusing to the shelf of the kiln. </p><p>Earthenware: Red bodied clay.</p><p>Stoneware Clay: Clay that can be fired to high fire temperatures. Bevel: Cutting the edge of a slab at a 45 degree angle in order to attach two clay walls. The technique is also used making lids on forms. </p><p>Slab Roller: Roller on a table that allows large slabs to be rolled.</p><p>Grog: Clay which has been fired then ground up. Grog can come in many particle sizes, from fine to coarse. It is used to reduce shrinkage in clay bodies and create stability in a clay body.</p><p>Bat: A cylindrical flat plate used on a potter’s wheel. </p><p>Wedging: Kneading the clay to remove air in preparation for throwing on a potter’s wheel. </p><p>Centering: Balancing clay on the center of a potter’s wheel to allow a piece to be thrown evenly.</p><p>Potter’s Wheel: A wheel that rotates allowing a ball of clay to be formed into a thrown vessel.</p><p>Vessel: An open mouth container that holds something.</p><p>Things to Remember:</p><p>A. Pin or Needle tool B. Loop tool C. Trim tool D. Sponge E. Wire tool F. Metal rib G. Wooden rib H. Modeling tool When throwing on a potter’s wheel, right handed potters should have the wheel spinning counter clockwise. Lefty clockwise. </p><p>“Rule of Thumb” Clay must be hollow if thicker than your thumb</p><p>Hollow forms must have a pin hole to let air pressure release during firing</p><p>Rules of Drying Time: Let your work dry slowly (about 1 week) and cover any fragile additions.</p><p>Work can touch in a bisque firing.</p><p>Work cannot touch in a glaze firing.</p><p>A full kiln fires better than, a half full kiln.</p><p>Glazes should always be applied generously with multiple layers.</p><p>Never glaze the bottom of ceramic work. It will fuse to the shelf.</p><p>Not all glazes are food safe.</p><p>Do not apply underglaze or engobe to bone dry clay. You can apply underglaze to bisqueware. Ceramic Terms of a Cup or Bowl</p><p>Steps in Throwing:</p><p>1. Wedging 2. Attaching/Positioning 3. Centering 4. Opening 5. Pulling 6. Shaping 7. Trimming </p>

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