guide for the EXTRAKINKYCOILY girl who thought baby hairs & sleek updos would spring forth... by jouelzy illustrated by sharee miller But like anything that hits the peak of pop culture popularity and then introduction. What Made You Go Natural? Hello, love. How’s your day going? Better yet, how is your hair going curves to become one of the fastest-growing consumer economies, today? Are you happy? Are you sad? Have you fnally mastered the the natural hair movement has in more recent years careened into the art of the fat twist out to spring forth bouncy curls that aren’t too tight mythical tales of the best/healthy/perfect natural hair being laid with (so you don’t end up looking like Grandma Ethel) or too loose (so you gelled-up baby hairs that any single “edge control” product can help don’t step out the house and poof – all defnition dissipates)? Is your you achieve, while the rest of your hair can be smoothed up sleekly hair fourishing as you reach BSL and APL hair lengths? Do you even into the perfect but just slightly messy top knot, again of course with know what those acronyms mean? Does it matter? the perfect new hair product that you have to run to your nearest beauty supply store or Etsy shop to pick up. Because the other 20 to 35 hair products that have failed to make your hair sleek while refecting a high- Is your hair fourishing as Girl … just come along with me. Whether you’re new to defnition shine (without the use of an Instagram flter) were missing you reach BSL and APL hair this and constantly pulling at that one mysterious ingredient that humans have been ignoring since lengths? your hair strands to make sure Nefertiti walked this earth. Never mind that Nefertiti wore wigs … but Do you even know what they’re growing, or you’ve okay girl. For double taps, clicks and coins, the natural hair industry those acronyms mean? been hiding that bushel of hair and media have been peddling misinformation that leaves out the full breadth of what healthy natural hair can be. Does it matter? under wigs/weaves/braids as a “protective” (but really you just don’t have the time to be bothered with other hairstyles) or, even if Whether you believe in hair typing you’re perfectly happy with your hair and just want to sit and kiki with or not, for ease of identifying a me, there’s something here for everyone. sub group we’ll refer to this group that has been skimmed over as In the past 10 years the natural hair movement has grown exponentially, the Type 4C and Beyond naturals, empowering women of color to take hold of their identity and be proud aka 4C+: where hair tightly coils of the hair that the One above bestowed upon their scalps. Many of us back into itself, hair shrinkage is grin with pride as we see the representations of ourselves in mainstream real even without the presence media begin to take on new shapes and appearances that appeal to the of actual water, and hair can still everyday Black woman. look dull and dry even when it is moisturized and soft to the touch. For many of us, we only see our hair represented when there are edgy cuts and color involved, or when supreme lengths and big hair has been achieved. This leaves a good range of women confused about where to begin, how to keep on, and what they should actually establish as their end goal. So here we are, where you’re going to take this walk with me as I dispense the information I have accumulated over the two-plus years I’ve spent telling you that Type 4C+ natural hair is just as fne as the shiny curls of my Type 3 sisters, and then kicking up a slight ft to let y’all know that we deserve to be recognized, and I don’t have time for the marketing lies. While I’ve moved on to focus on my #SmartBrownGirl movement (because empowering women of color to defne their own success story is where my passion lies), I don’t want to leave without this small gift to help you be a #SmartBrownGirl with fy natural hair. If you’re not familiar with my YouTube channel, allow me to explain my obsession with baby hairs and the #babyhairbrigade. Just because you have baby hairs doesn’t mean that we can’t be cool. I love you whether or not you have a toothbrush as part of your hair-care regimen. But what I’m really getting at is the uptick in the natural hair media and companies looking to capitalize on this industry, pushing out this image of a natural hairstyle being chapter one. perfect when the subtle swifts of Reckoning With Realistic Expectations baby hairs (the short hairs around For Your HairVersus What the perimeter of one’s hair line) the Media Says is Healthy Natural Hair are gelled and swooped into the style. Where Bantu knot-out tutorials with shoddy webcam production can suddenly get coverage from major publications like Cosmopolitan and Glamour magazines, as if Black women haven’t been putting out the better-produced tutorials of the same styles for years. When the crown braid on one is shared all over Tumblr, Twitter, Facebook and Instagram (because again, the shine and swoop of baby hairs will bring any person to their knees), understanding the accented beauty that this touch brings to a natural faster, fx hair that dries up rapidly or stop hair from shedding. Your hairstyle. And yet, with my Type 4C+ hair, a crown braid leaves hair grows out from your scalp. Think about what’s under that layer people making references to Aunt Cellie and slave jokes. This is of skin that springs forth the most important patch (well, after your extreme, but you get the point. eyebrows) on your body. Hair growth is an internal process, and often when we have chronic hair issues, our bodies are telling us The #babyhairbrigade is more something is wrong internally. Your hair and nails are the of an affront to the media/ corporation powers who are last parts of your body Good blood fow is part of healthy hair growth. Exercise helps to pushing a lie in a jar of hair to receive nutrients, so keep the blood fowing properly and circulating to the right parts product. I love all my sisters if there’s any defciency of your body. So put down the Big Mac with the Diet Coke and do with Pocahontas edges and they’ll be the frst places some squats. Excessive hair shedding is often a sign of hormonal Ashanti sideburns just the imbalance and vitamin defciency. If you can’t remember the last to show it. same. time you saw the sun, your vitamin D levels are probably low. Vitamin B is also important in stimulating hair growth. Before Now let us dispel some of the lies and help you on the road to happy you go buy the newest epic natural hair swindle of hair vitamins, hair and less frustration. 1. Not everyone has baby hairs. Lol … I’m sorry, I couldn’t resist. But it must be said, not all of us have a pass into the #babyhairbrigade, and that’s fne. Your hairstyles will still be super cute, and with the right lighting, your Instagram pics will get plenty of likes. 2. There’s no magical hair product; just good ingredients and healthy bodies. understand that the best way for your body to absorb any nutrient is Many of us who are experiencing ongoing hair problems – which through natural sources, like leafy greens and vegetables. Throw a we can’t seem to counter no matter what we do – are looking in green smoothie into your daily meal plan with a gallon of water, and the wrong areas. No topical hair product will make your hair grow nourish your hair, nails, skin and body. Your hair and nails are the last parts of your body to receive nutrients, Some quick basics here: so if there’s any defciency they’ll be the frst places to show it. Who Dull hair color might not emanate/refect light like darker (black) or doesn’t love a good basket of deep-fried chicken fngers? Or maybe brighter (deep red) hair colors. your bae, who otherwise avoids the kitchen, enjoys frying Oreos for dessert, lunch and breakfast … french fries with Whataburger Type 4 hair is dull or “dry” looking because of how tightly coiled ketchup (sorry for all of you who haven’t experienced this Texan the hair strand is. If you don’t have a good detangle routine down, goodness), but all of these nutrient-defcient meals take nutrients for you might not only have a hard time getting your hair to refect your body to digest. So while we all love a good snack, make sure light and have a good sheen, but you will also have a hard time with that you’re ingesting enough of the right nutrients for your body to moisturizing, because product can’t reach the full length of your fourish and allow for your edges to always be full. hair shaft. 3. Shine and sheen are not the only indicators of moisturized hair. Properly detangling and wearing stretched hairstyles will make it Step away from the natural hair blogs and forums for a second.