Dyeing and colour fastness of natural dye from Citrus aurantium on Lyocell fabric DOI: 10.35530/IT.071.04.1686 NAVEED TAYYAB AWAN ASHRAF JAVEED RASHDI YASEEN SAYED ABBAS MUDASSAR REHMAN FAISAL FRAZ AHMAD WEI WANG AWAIS MUHAMMAD ABSTRACT – REZUMAT Dyeing and colour fastness of natural dye from Citrus aurantium on Lyocell fabric The use of natural dyes for textiles has attained attention due to their ecology, minimum impact on the environment and pollution. Therefore the objective of this study is to dye Lyocell fabric with natural dye extracted from orange peel for comparative analysis of colour efficiencies (K/S), CIE L*a*b* values and the colour fastness properties. The mordants applied were ferrous (II) sulphate and copper (II) sulphate. For the extraction of the dye, the aqueous extraction method was used. The pre-mordanting method was used and the dyeing effect on Lyocell fabric was analyzed at concentrations of 2% and 4%. It was observed that the mordant type employed had an influence on the colour efficiency and the colour coordinates of fabric dyed with Citrus aurantium dye. The colour efficiency (K/S: 4) and colour fastness to washing, light, rubbing and perspiration in all the dyed samples were better and excellent (grade 4–5) at 4% concentration. In overall results, the pre-mordanting method at 4% concentration gives the best results of colour efficiency and colour fastness properties. The performance analysis of colour fastness was also statistically significant at the 0.05 level. Keywords: natural dyes, orange peel, Lyocell, extraction, mordant, colour fastness Vopsirea și rezistența culorii colorantului natural din Citrus aurantium pe țesătura din Lyocell Utilizarea coloranților naturali pentru materialele textile a atras atenția datorită aspectelor legate de ecologie, impactul minim asupra mediului și poluare. Prin urmare, obiectivul acestui studiu este vopsirea țesăturii din Lyocell cu colorant natural extras din coaja de portocală, pentru analiza comparativă a eficienței culorilor (K/S), valorile CIE L*a*b* și proprietățile de rezistență a culorii. Mordanții aplicați au fost sulfat feros (II) și sulfat de cupru (II). Pentru extragerea colorantului s-a utilizat metoda de extracție apoasă. S-a utilizat metoda cu pre-mordant și s-a analizat vopsirea pe țesătura din Lyocell la concentrații de 2% și 4%. S-a observat că tipul de mordant folosit a influențat eficiența culorilor și coordonatele de culoare ale țesăturii vopsite cu colorant Citrus aurantium. Eficiența culorii (K/S: 4) și rezistența culorii la spălare, lumină, frecare și transpirație la toate probele vopsite au fost mai bune și excelente (grad 4–5) la o concentrație de 4%. În ceea ce privește rezultatele generale, metoda de pre-mordansare la o concentrație de 4% oferă cele mai bune rezultate ale eficienței culorii și proprietății de rezistență a culorii. Analiza performanței rezistenței culorii a fost, de asemenea, semnificativă statistic la nivelul 0,05. Cuinte-cheie : coloranți naturali, coajă de portocală, Lyocell, extracție, mordant, rezistența culorii INTRODUCTION Natural dyes hold great promise of sustainability, offering the potential of being renewable, biodegrad - Since 1856, the use of synthetic dyes has opened able and anti-allergic from harmful additives [5–6]. gigantic benefits to apply solid colours to the textile Moreover, they have a massive worth in the perspec - fibers and fabrics due to their lightweight, ease of tive of deteriorating conventional synthetic polymers processing, quite lower costs and moderate-to-excel - and global warming associated with it [7]. Thus mini - lent colour fastness properties [1]. However, their dis - mizing environmental impact, the natural dyes have carding process and petroleum-based starting mate - been used for the colouring of textiles materials since rials have created severe hazardous to our envi- Bronze Age [8]. However, in this modern era, their ronment due to their non-biodegradable nature [2]. applications and comprehensive usage have been developed towards the antimicrobial finishing of tex - Consequently, many nations have restricted various tiles, UV protective clothing, food colorations, cos - particular azo-dyes (-N=N-) for their applications and metics, and pharmaceuticals etc. [9]. Moreover, the manufacturing [3]. In that regard, the replacement of interest and demand in natural dyes are continuous - conventional synthetic dyes with natural dyes is an ly increasing for the reason that it does not implicate attractive option to mitigate the problems of pollution any strong acerbic and alkalis in their uses and fabri - and hazardous waste [4]. cations [10]. industria textila˘ 350 2020, vol. 71, no. 4 The dyes which are derived from natural sources like samples dyed with orange peel extract [34]. Formerly plants, minerals, and animals are known to be natu - no investigation has been described on dyeing ral dyes [11]. They are colorants that are attained Tencel fabric with natural dye extracted from orange without applying any chemicals. However, the pure peel. Therefore the authors have examined the dye - dye content and colour yield in dye plant is very low, ing and colour fastness of natural dye from orange relative to synthetic dye [12]. In plants, colouring peel on Lyocell fabric. agents are acquired from, leaves, fruits, flowers, In the present study, the chemical composition of OP roots and barks [13]. Some of the imperative natural waste has been determined through physiochemical dyes are orange, pomegranate, eucalyptus, Kamala, analysis for pectinase production. The analysed OP madder, henna, turmeric etc. [14]. Natural dyes have waste contained moisture (40.7%), ash (7.39%), fat several technical limitations of colour fastness like (1.85%), pectin (7.0%), lignin (6.4%), crude fiber colour yield, reproducibility results, difficulties of (7.8%), total sugar (14.08%), reducing sugars dying procedure and mixing problems [15]. Moreover, (10.70%) and non-reducing sugar (3.70%). The natural dyes have poor fastness properties since Lyocell fabric is dyed with natural dyes extracted from they have a very low affinity for fibers and fabrics orange peel. Moreover, two mordants (ferrous sul - [16]. Therefore mordants are applied with natural phate and copper sulphate) have also been applied dyes to make their affinity with textile fibers during the to evaluate the excellence of their application with the production [17]. Lyocell fabric. Mordants play a very important role in giving colour to the textile fabric. A mordant is an element which not MATERIALS AND METHODS only causes a chemical reaction but also makes a Materials bridge between the dye and the fabric [18]. It also Dye plant: Orange fruits (Tangerine) were purchased increases the dye uptake properties between the dye from the local market of Songjiang in Shanghai, and fibers [19]. It gives different shades when applied China. in different percentages. Hence it delivers an exten - Fabric: 100% Lyocell fabric was used for dyeing, sive variability of colour shades with suitable intensi - which was obtained from Hangzhou Xinsheng ties of colour fastness [20]. Sahoo et al. reported the Printing and Dyeing Company LTD (Xiaoshan colour shade strength influenced by the concentra - Hangzhou). tion of the metal salts used [21]. It also equally Chemicals: Laboratory grade metallic salts such as depends upon the rise in temperature [22]. The most ferrous (II) sulphate, (FeSO4.7H2O manufactured widely used mordants are ferrous sulphate, copper by Sinopharm Chemical Reagent, CO.LTD) and sulphate, chrome, alum, and stannous chloride etc. (copper (II) sulphate, CuSO4.5H2O manufactured [23]. The metal ions of mordants form co-ordinate by Sinopharm Chemical Reagent, CO.LTD) were and covalent bond with the dye molecule. The metal applied as a chemical mordant. ions accept an electron from the dye molecule which Raw material preparation: Peels were removed from is insoluble in water and thus easily drained out [24]. the oranges and washed with water for the removal Subsequently, the size of the dye molecules increased of the dust particles or other impurities. The washed and the light fastness properties improved. peels were dried in the oven for 20 hours at a tem - Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber. It is prepared perature of 30°C. Subsequently, the dried peels were from wood pulp and is an excellent ecological fabric ground into powder form (for the extraction process) that specifies a milestone in the progress of environ - through the grinder machine. Figure 1 has delineated mental sustainable textile [25]. Orange is one of the the preparation of raw material. most common and famous fruit in the world which Equipment: Weighing balance (having accuracy of yearly yield over 100 million tons [26]. Moreover, 0.01 g), Water bath, Soxhlet extractor, Water Shaker, orange peel (OP) i.e. shell of the orange fruit is the Hot air oven, Data colour. bio-resource wastage and is present in abundance [27]. The bright orange colour extracted from OP Methods generally originates from phenolic compounds [28]. Extraction of natural dyes: Aqueous extraction Additionally, it has antimicrobial and UV-protection method (Soxhlet apparatus) [6] was used for the properties and for that reason could be used as a nat - extraction of dye from orange peels (OP). 10g pow - ural dye or textile finishes [29]. In the literature, many der of OP was taken in the round bottom flask with research studies have been done with the dye the addition of 200 ml distilled water. Moreover 1:20 extracted from orange peel for dyeing textile materi - material to liquor ratio (M.L.R) was retained. The als, such as wool and cotton etc. [30–32]. Edeen flask was heated at 90°C temperature for 1 hour in reported the higher performance mechanical proper - the water bath. The vapours passed through the ties of cotton fabric while treated with orange peel channel and rose up over the top into the condenser. extract [31]. Similarly, Kumar and Karan also proved In the thimble, the condensed vapours dropped and higher performance characteristics of cotton fabric thus the extracted material transferred back into the with orange peel and lemon peel extract [33].