TUSCANY LAND OF TRAILS www.visittuscany.com Discovering ancient roads and historical routes. TUSCANY LAND OF TRAILS Discovering ancient roads and historical routes. CONTENTS TUSCANY, LAND OF TRAILS PAGE 3 Tuscany, land of trails nly a few territories, either in Italy or abroad, 10 Via degli Dei can boast of such a diversified and extended Onetwork of paths, historical roads and trails 20 Via del Volto Santo to be travelled upon on foot as those in Tuscany. A 30 Sentiero Matilde/Cammino di San Pellegrino mapping promoted a few years ago by Regione Toscana and Club Alpino Italiano already fostered 38 Via Ghibellina the identification, on the basis of regional 48 Via Clodia cartography in 1:10000 scale reproduction, of trails 56 Cammino di Dante measuring approximately 7000 km. But the phenomenon is on a constant rise, considering that 64 Via Lauretana Senese new trails are traced nearly every year, ancient 72 Via Romea Germanica paths are rediscovered and improvements are made to the already existing ones. There is also a growing 80 Romea Strata need, expressed by hikers of all ages, for reception 88 Cammini Francescani and refreshment facilities near the walking routes. 3 VIA FRANCIGENA All of this should not be surprising when one considers that Via Francigena alone crosses Tuscany from north to south, for a total distance equal to approximately 380 km. Beginning in the Middle Ages, this roadway represented the main connec- tion between central European and Mediterranean countries; regarding the Tuscany stretch, for the most part it retraced the ancient layout of Via Cassia. Along its path, it fostered the development of villages, markets, parishes, abbeys, cross- ings and fords – determining the establishment of settlements for the population. No less important was its influence at the level of elaborating popular imagination, testified by a sort of sacralisation of space and by a symbolic setting that was painted and sculpted in many works of art. Since the Middle Ages, the system providing assistance to pilgrims could have counted on (over the Tuscany region) a network of facilities whose heart was Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala in Siena. It was mentioned in a document dating back to 1090 as having been established by Duomo canons and small interventions for safety measures. The hiking trail in- Towards as one of the many locations along Via Francigena offering cludes equipped rest areas, drinking water distribution points San Piero accommodation to pilgrims and assistance to the poor and the and reserved lavatories. a Sieve “gettatelli” (children left to community care). These activities are described in a series of frescoes by Pellegrinaio – exem- plary proof of heathcare systems of the times. Substantial alms and bequests provided the Spedale with prominent economic CONNECTING ROADS relevance, fostering autonomous organization regulated by a statute at the beginning of the 1300s; moreover its huge ag- AND OTHER HISTORICAL ricultural assets, represented by the “grance” scattered over the Siena countryside, were a source of subsidence for the city WAYS in times of famine and epidemics. Various hospitals were dis- tributed along the main historical itineraries in the outskirts While Via Francigena represents the principal route of the of town; in addition to the frequent presence of hotels, where entire network, an articulated road system connected to the pilgrims and wayfarers were able to find shelter for the night. principal route is the subject of a detailed schedule of inter- The Tuscan stretch of Via Francigena can presently be cov- ventions promoted by bodies in charge of the management and ered on foot, on horseback and by bicycle. The hiking trail is tourism development of Tuscany. Specifically, with the onset indicated in detail with various sorts of signage (tourism signs, of a homogeneous tourism product, the Tuscan stretch of Via boundary stones, stickers). The horseback trail is already open Francigena has been entrusted to 39 Comuni (divided into 4 to visitors, with specific signage. For that which regards the groups) that have undersigned an agreement for the associ- bicycle-tourism itinerary, funds have been allotted for signage ated exercise of functions regarding accommodation manage- 4 5 ment and tourism information, promotion and communication of the tourism product, routine maintenance of the hiking trails, monitoring and assessing tourist flows. More historical roads and trails are distributed over the entire Tuscan territory and, as would be expected, especially along the Apennine sector since this mountain chain has his- torically represented an obstacle for the flow of pilgrims (but even as defence against enemy armies) coming from northern Italy and beyond – namely transalpine Europe. Therefore, for example, proceeding eastwards from the north-weastern tip of the region we come across (in succession) Via degli Abati, Via di Linari and Sentiero di Matilde, which all flow into Via del Volto Santo – in the direction of Lucca. Romea Strada opened the way towards Pistoia, whereas Via degli Dei repre- sented the route par excellence linking Bologna and Florence. Furthermore, the entire Casenti no region was an area of tran- sit with the historical Via Romea Germa nica route, but even with more recent trails such as Cammino di Dante or the devo- tional Walks of Saint Anthony and San Vicinio. La Verna is at the crossroads of Franciscan Walks in the direction of Assisi, while the centre of Tuscany hosts a network of historical roads (such as La Ghi bellina) closely bound to events of Medici do- main over the region. Via Lauretana Senese runs between Siena and Valdichiana and is an important junction between Via Francigena and Romea Germa nica, whereas Via Clodia connects Grosseto to Rome. Connections along the coast are less frequent due to the presence of malaria in the area until the last century; an interesting project for Via dei Caval leggeri is presently being discussed for a bridleway, while a walking trail across the Maremma area is also being planned. THE GREAT APENNINE EXCURSION And ultimately it would be worthwhile recalling, along- Foresta side these important historical paths, the GEA Trail (Great del Teso, Apennine Excursion). It is an itinerary measuring 375 km autumn 7 THE TRAILS VVS VIA DEL VOLTO SANTO page 20 VG VIA GHIBELLINA 38 SM/CSP SENTIERO MATILDE/CAMMINO DI SAN PELLEGRINO 30 VRG VIA ROMEA GERMANICA 72 RS ROMEA STRATA 80 CF CAMMINI FRANCESCANI 88 VD VIA DEGLI DEI 10 VLS VIA LAURETANA SENESE 64 CD CAMMINO DI DANTE 56 VC VIA CLODIA 48 Verrucole in length, which travels along the entire Tosco-Emiliano and Fortress Tosco-Romagnolo Apennine mountain range. GEA intersects most of the above-mentioned trails, hence closing the thick network of routes offered to hikers who wish to visit this mar- vellous region on foot. HAPPY HIKING Our choice of trails and historical paths proposed in this guide demonstrate the will to offer a meaningful overview (al- beit not a comprehensive one) of all the principal trails pres- ent in Tuscany. Also including trails that, although setting off from other regions, have important stretches in this region, paying particular attention to their geographical distribution so as to present a diversified sample of environmental situa- tions: from Apennine rises to inland hills, from valley furrows to coastal lowlands. Moreover, the actual practicability of these trails and historical paths has been taken into account, favouring those with the best conditions of accessibility, sig- nage, reception and refreshment facilities along the way. 8 VIA DEGLI DEI DEPARTURE Bologna ARRIVAL Florence DISTANCE 130 km DISTANCE IN TUSCANY approx. 60 km ENTRY INTO TUSCANY Pian del Voglio HOW TO GET THERE by car, A1 highway, Pian del Voglio exit; by train, stations served by the “Direttissima” Bologna-Florence line provide access to different locations where one may join the trail. Two authentic capitals of history, art and culture such as Bologna and Florence are connected by a trail that travels across the Tosco-Emiliano Apennine mountain range and can boast of distant origins. The charm of Via degli Dei is that it gives hikers the opportunity to discover the extraordinary intricacies of the Apennine range. Its route snakes along paths, dirt roads and only a few random stretches over paved ones. It crosses forests, vast woods and (as it mostly stands at high altitudes) offers many panoramic sights where one can enjoy spectacular views of ridges and extensive valleys. The trail is watched over and gets its name from the ancient gods who have also lent their names to the surroundings: i.e. Monte Adone (Mount Adonis), Monzuno (Mons Zeus, namely the mountain of Zeus), Monte Venere (Mount Venus) and Monte Luario (stemming from Lua, the Roman goddess of expiation). Previous pages: view from the ridge between Madonna dei Fornelli and Futa Pass MILITARY ORIGINS OF THE TRAIL Most certainly Etruscans were the first ones who traced and travelled over (for at least four centuries, between the seventh and fourth centuries B.C.) a road between Fiesole and Felsina. This road linked two of the most important eco- nomic centres of central-northern Italy across the Apennines. However, the only certain historical source recalling the con- struction of a trans-Apennine road by Roman Consul Gaius Flaminius in 187 B.C. can be ascribed to Titus Livy. In fact, belligerence during those years led Rome into founding what Left: would have been named Flaminia Militare; its main objec- German tive was to ensure Rome’s control over populations inhabiting military the Po Valley. The road lost its importance over the following cemetery centuries and progressively deteriorated, just like other con- sulares (Roman roads), eventually becoming a narrow mule Below: track that was travelled by merchants, pilgrims and wayfar- walking ers during the Middle Ages in crossing the Apennine moun- along the tains at Futa Pass – either by foot or on horseback.