MINIGUIDEBOOK Culture and historical monuments The north-western Mazovia Content: Sylwia Kulczyk Cover design and graphics: PANCZAKIEWICZ ART.DESIGN / Paweł Panczakiewicz www.panczakiewicz.pl Publisher: Mazowieckie Voivodeship 03-719 Warszawa, ul. Jagiellońska 26 tel. (+22) 5979-100, fax: (+22) 5979-290 e-mail: [email protected] Print: CHROMA Żary, www.chroma.pl Publication fully funded by the Local-government of the Mazowieckie Voivodeship All rights reserved. No part of this publication can be reproduced without the Publisher’s written consent. ISBN 978-83-62082-76-6 Warsaw 2009 Contents A few words about the landscape 8 Kaleidoscope of history 9 34 Bieżuń 35 Ratowo Ciechanów 14 36 Strzegowo Gołotczyzna 19 38 Płońsk Opinogóra 20 40 Czerwińsk nad Wisłą Mława 25 42 Zakroczym Mazovia Żuromin 29 45 Modlin Szreńsk 32 The north-western INTRODUctION THE NORTH-WESTERN MAZOVIA he mini guide you are holding in your hands will acquaint you with the greatest T cultural attractions of the north-western part of Mazovia, and specifically of the following poviats: of Ciechanów, Mława, Żuromin, Płońsk and Nowy Dwór Maz- owiecki. The lands under discussion have been the borderline of the Mazovia region for ages - which is why numerous strongholds and fortified castles, part of which has survived till the present day, were built there. You can find here not only earth-walled forts and medieval castles, but also the nineteenth- century fortress in Modlin, whose size is amazing. he biggest towns in this part of Mazovia are Ciechanów and Mława. T The southern part of the described region is situated in the vicinity of Warsaw. All the above mentioned towns are good bases from which to explore the region. You can get to each town by bus (PKS), but using your own means of transport will make us independent of the bus schedule. A few words kaleIdoscope aboUT the laNdscape THE NORTH-WESTERN MAZOVIA THE NORTH-WESTERN MAZOVIA of HIstory A FEW WORDS ABOUT River are smaller but equally picturesque KALEIDOSCOPE become blurred in many places. Mazow- rivulets, the Mławka and the Łydynia Riv- ieckie is the biggest Voivodeship in Poland, THE LANDSCAPE ers among others. The southern bounda- OF HISTORY which has existed since 1999, occupies the ry of the described area is outlined by the largest part of historical Mazovia, stretching In this part of Mazovia the slightly un- Vistula River valley. Across from the fortress Researchers have been investigat- slightly further to the east and north. dulating area is occupied by farmland and in Modlin, the Narew River flows into the ing for years what the Polish name “Maz- The northern boundary of this part has small forest complexes. Due to the good- queen of Polish rivers. The high northern owsze” (Mazovia) exactly means. It is usu- remained unchanged practically since the quality soil the Ciechanów, Płońsk and bank of the Vistula River valley between ally divided into two parts: “maz” and Middle Ages. The Mazovia lands were a part Mława surroundings are an important ag- Modlin and Czerwińsk is one of the most “wsze”. The second element is associated of the Piast monarchy from the beginning of ricultural area. Numerous sugar factories picturesque spots of the region. The steep with the word “vše”, which denotes a set- Polish statehood. In the reign of Władysław process beet from the local fields. Around bank is cut by numerous ravines, and from tled country. The first part is more difficult Herman (Ladislaus Herman) and Bolesław Płońsk and Czerwińsk there are large fields the edge of the height unfolds a panorama to explain; most probably it should be de- Krzywousty (Boleslaus the Wry-mouthed), of currants and strawberries, as well as nu- of unique beauty. rived from the word “mazać”(to smear), numerous towns, the inhabitants of which merous fruit orchards. The “straight from the “mazidło”(ointment). This term may have grew wealthy through trade, were built in bush” goodies can be bought at the local been used to nickname the inhabitants of the northern Mazovia. From the end of the markets and often right next to the road. the region who were smeared with muddy 12th century, when power was seized by The river valleys add variety to the land- soil, it may be also derived from tar burn- Konrad I (Conrad I), the Duchy of Mazovia scape. The axis of the described area is the ing, that is “maź”(soft sticky substance). was politically independent. The forest bor- Wkra River valley. The lazy and lowland riv- Similarly, it is not easy to point out the derland was inhabited by hunters and bee- er meanders amidst meadows sprinkled exact boundaries of the region. Due to mul- keepers. In the 15th century, during the reign with flowers. The tributaries of the Wkra tiple changes over the centuries they have of Duke Janusz I, many manor seats were kaleIdoscope kaleIdoscope of HIstory THE NORTH-WESTERN MAZOVIA THE NORTH-WESTERN MAZOVIA of HIstory built in northern Mazovia, for example in towns began. In the area discussed, Zakroc- Several decades years later northern Ma- via was included in the Kingdom of Poland. Ciechanów and Zakroczym. The Duke visit- zym and Czerwińsk, among others, were zovia was harassed by a multitude of chal- The period of enlargement and develop- ed his possessions regularly, controlling the growing in strength. Both of these towns lenges: the Great Northern war between ment lasted until the year 1830. More and economy and presiding over the courts. The were situated on the Vistula River, which at Sweden and Russia, the fight over the Polish more inhabitants arrived, and the towns un- frequent visits of the sovereign had a ben- that time was one of the most important throne between August II (Augustus II) and derwent changes in the spatial order and in eficial impact on the economic and cultural trade routes in Poland. On the northern bor- Stanisław Leszczyński, and the plague. The the development plan. Many public build- development of the towns. der of the state, important trade centres in- reconstruction of war damage was very ings date back to this period, for example As the ruling families from the Piast dy- cluded Mława and Szreńsk. slow, but its progress can be proved by the the town hall in Ciechanów. A crucial role nasty were dying out, subsequent Mazovia The end of the golden age came together appearance of a new town on the region’s in the development of craft and trade was lands were included into the Crown. In 1526 with the Swedish Deluge of in 1655. It should map - Żuromin (1765). As a result of the played by the Jewish population, which the last of the Mazovia dukes, Janusz III, who be highlighted that the lands situated to the third partition of Poland, this part of Mazo- constituted the majority in many towns. In was ruling in Warsaw, died heirless. Due to north-west of the Wkra River never com- via, similarly to the majority of the region, 1830 the November Uprising broke out in the fact that the sad event took place only pletely submitted to the Swedes. Guerrilla fell to Prussia. In 1806-1807 the Napoleonic Warsaw. The majority of the population of a year and a half after the death of his old- warfare was fought there from the autumn campaign swept through these lands. On Mazovia, irrespective of faith and social sta- er brother Stanisław, and since both dukes of 1655. The Polish troops, amounting some- the order of the emperor, the construction tus, supported the armed bid for independ- were in their prime, the circumstances of times to a few hundred soldiers, crippled of the fortress in Modlin began. In 1807 the ence. Unfortunately, divergences among their death remained the subject of gossip transport and supply chains, cutting off sub- area was included in the Warsaw Duchy. the generals commanding the uprising and inquiry for a long time. Until the mid- sequent castles from each other. As a result After Napoleon’s downfall, Modlin’s for- and the enormous military Russian advan- 17th century Mazovia, being a stable centre of the war, many towns were ruined (Mława tress withstood an eleven-month siege of tage led to defeat. After the uprising’s de- of the great Republic of Poland, was in its was completely destroyed), and many villag- the Russian army, and surrendered only by feat the Kingdom’s autonomy was consid- golden age. Intensive development of its’ es were almost totally depopulated. the end of November 1813. In 1815 Mazo- erably limited. Finally, it was liquidated af- 10 11 kaleIdoscope kaleIdoscope of HIstory THE NORTH-WESTERN MAZOVIA THE NORTH-WESTERN MAZOVIA of HIstory ter the defeat of the subsequent uprising. area. The short period of reconstruction From 1945 Mazovia, similarly to the rest of Poland, lived The fighting that broke out in January 1863 and stabilisation that followed the final es- according to the rhythm of the so-called six-year plans. after the impressment order into the Rus- tablishment of Poland’s borders was soon Significant development of industry took place in Mława, sian army spread throughout the whole disrupted by the outbreak of World War II. Ciechanów and Płońsk. In 1975, as a result of the administra- of Mazovia. Fighting, punishment and ex- During the first days of September 1939 tive reform, several dozen small voivodeships were created in ile to Siberia caused the death of thou- hard battles took place near Mława. A he- the territory of Poland. Ciechanów was elevated to the rank of sands of people. The post-uprising repres- roic defence brought renown to the Mod- capital of the voivodeship.