THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION ISLAND BUSHWHACKER 2008 ANNUAL VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION of THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA SECTION EXECUTIVE – 2008 Chair Cedric Zala Secretary Rick Hudson Treasurer Geoff Bennett Mountain Film Festival Lissa Zala Bushwhacker Committee Sandy Briggs Lindsay Elms Rob Macdonald Russ Moir Bushwhacker Design & Layout Sandy Stewart Education Peter Rothermel Equipment Mike Hubbard FMCBC Rep John Young Library/Archivist Judith Holm Membership Jain Alcock-White Members at Large Phee Hudson Russ Moir Mike Morley Torge Schuemann National Rep Russ Moir Safety Selena Swets Schedule Karun Thanjavur Webmaster/Listserver Martin Hofmann ACC VI Section website: www.accvi.ca ACC National website: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca ISSN 0822 - 9473 Cover: Charles Turner crossing the snow couloir on Warden Peak PHOTO: TONY VAUGHN Printed on recycled paper Contents Message from the Chair Cedric Zala .............................................................................................................................................................1 VANCOUVER ISLAND Mount Brenton Albert Hestler .........................................................................................................................................................................3 Plans B and C: Skiing around Louise Goetting Lake Dave Campbell ..............................................................................................4 Towincut and Heather Mountain Lindsay Elms ........................................................................................................................................5 Pogo Peak Tony Vaughn .....................................................................................................................................................................................6 Late spring skiing – Climbing Big Interior Mountain and Nine Peaks in June Rick Hudson..................................................7 Mariner Mountain John Young .....................................................................................................................................................................10 Augerpoint Mountain Dave Campbell .......................................................................................................................................................12 Frustration on Conuma Peak Martin Smith ..............................................................................................................................................13 Warden Peak: A Long Quest Tony Vaughn ...............................................................................................................................................16 Going Solo: Climbing Victoria Peak Rick Hudson ..................................................................................................................................17 Moyeha Mountain Lindsay Elms ...................................................................................................................................................................19 Mount George V and Peak 1920 Tony Vaughn .......................................................................................................................................21 Flower Ridge to Cream Lake High Route Dave Campbell ..................................................................................................................22 Rambler Peak George Urban ..........................................................................................................................................................................23 Naka Peak* and the Bevy of Unnamed 5,000 foot Peaks Lindsay Elms .......................................................................................24 Mount Regan: Hmm, Blue Gaiter? Peter Rothermel ..............................................................................................................................25 Marble Peak (Marble Meadows) Martin Smith ........................................................................................................................................27 Not mount what or where this time, but, Mount Russell again! Lindsay Elms ..........................................................................28 Tlatlos Peaks Lindsay Elms ..............................................................................................................................................................................29 Mount Abraham* Lindsay Elms .....................................................................................................................................................................30 Beyond Paradise: The Fellowship Of The Curtain Ring Peter Rothermel .....................................................................................31 Higher still on Sutton Peak Kent Krauza ....................................................................................................................................................32 On a Clear Day You Can See Forever – A New Route on Red Pillar, Strathcona Park Rick Hudson ...................................34 Notes on access around Red Pillar in Strathcona Provincial Park Rick Hudson ........................................................................36 A Visit With the Merry Widow Tony Vaughn ............................................................................................................................................36 No Ifs or Ands, only Butt’s (Buttresses, that is) Sandy Briggs and Andy Arts ..............................................................................37 Mount Wolfenden/Mount Markusen Lindsay Elms ..............................................................................................................................41 Climbing Into History: Crown Mountain Martin Smith .......................................................................................................................43 Up and Over Pogo Tawney Lem ....................................................................................................................................................................45 Mountaineering with Kids – OR – Who Won the Snowball Fight? Nadja Steiner ....................................................................47 Jamie Duncan Got His IQ’s – 1996 to 2008 Ken Wong .........................................................................................................................51 2008 PHOTO CONTEST WINNERS ..............................................................................................................................................54 INTERIOR RANGES AND THE ROckIES Lake O’Hara Camp Geoff Bennett ................................................................................................................................................................56 Into Bear and Beer Country: Kokanee Glacier Summer Camp Rick Hudson .............................................................................61 SOUth OF THE BORDER & DISTANT PLACES Springtime in the Santa Lucias: Junipero Serra Peak Martin Smith .............................................................................................. 64 Nostalgia and a Haggis for Breakfast. English Lakes and Scottish Highlands Russ Moir .....................................................65 Mount Kosciuszko and a walk on the “wet” side to Carstensz Pyramid Sylvia Moser ...........................................................67 Mount Elgon – Uganda Albert Hestler .......................................................................................................................................................69 MOUNTAIN NEWS Mount Arrowsmith: A Dream Come True Peter Rothermel ...............................................................................................................72 Vancouver Island Spine: A Wilderness Hiking Trail from Victoria to Cape Scott Gil Parker .................................................73 Victoria’s TrailRider Program Enters New Phase Gerry Graham ......................................................................................................75 Section Avalanche Skills Training 2008-09 Dave Campbell ..............................................................................................................76 The September 1913 ascent of Big Interior Mountain, Vancouver Island, by Sir James Sivewright Stephen A. Craven and Lindsay Elms ....................................................................81 Für Gerta Claire Ebindinger .............................................................................................................................................................................83 Requiem for a young climber lost in Alaska Rick Hudson ................................................................................................................ 84 Message from the Chair Cedric Zala Section authors such as Lindsay Elms to provide inter- esting historical articles. • Electronic Executive meetings. We’ve started using Skype to make it easier for out-of-town members (as far away as the Beaufort Sea, on occasion) to participate in our Executive meetings. While this has sometimes been a bit iffy because of poor connections, it has included people who might otherwise not have been able to par- ticipate and has certainly saved a lot of gas! Memorial Fund We’ve initiated a Memorial Fund in memory of Viggo Holm and Gerta Smythe, two well-loved