HAVE GERMAN WILL TRAVEL Speisen WAS ESSEN DIE DEUTSCHEN? sausage: die Wurst, die Wurste small, thin sausage: das Wurstchen, die Wurstchen medium pork sausage: die Bratwurst, die Bratwurste MUNCHENER WEIRWURST (white pork sausage) Peel it Or Leave it The proper way to consume a Weisswurst Alfons Scbubec A. lack of respect for recommencfs priate amount of mass that is - against all rules f\ational treasures of the - "roasted to be consumed bit by bit. Yet e ultural kind can Weisswurst on red lentils." His another group also cuts the sau­ have colleague, Otto Koch, has even sage vertically into two pieces and clire consequences for served seafood Weisswurst to lus then adds the lengthwise surgical "Tourists in any guests. country. incision. 1n Bavaria, the mishan­ The butcher, Emmeran Hiilzl, The squabble over who knows dling and "desecration" who sold his goods in the Vik­ the "best Weisswurst maker" is of a Weisswurst (white rualienmarkt, the famous food mere banter when compared to the market .sausage) can lead to in the heart of Muruch in fight that ensues when Bavarians the mid-1990s, confessed that his observe s kirmishes with the local each other - or even worse, way of approaching a Weissvrorst tourists or Germans from else­ population. Therefore, was eccentric but that he wasn't where -as they eat Weisswurst. A we offer a brief instruc­ alone: He consumes his Weiss­ patron of Munich's "Weisses Brau­ 'tion manual. wurst with "28/30 Srutling" (whlch baus" for example was interrupted is a nice way of saying cleaned abruptly in the middle of making animal intestines) imported from the "horizontal surgical incision" ~1e simple, yet to Bavar­ China. Many people do what is some years ago. The person sit­ ians, sacrosanct sau­ called "Zuzln." A Swiss comedian ting across from him - apparently sage of which we speak described this as "going to work a faithful of the "Zuzln" method here must be com­ on a cylindrical objecr by creating - grabbed the surgeon by his lapel Tflosed of at least 60 percent veal a vacuum with one's lips." In other and pulled him across the table " Brat" (minced meat). This Brat words, those who do this suck the to inform him menacingly, his <an be mixed with 10 percent content of the sausage straight out eyes bloodshot, that this wasn't P,ork bacon, 20 percent minced of rhe skin. the proper way to eat a genuine flleat (usually cooked parts of A fair number of people skin Muruch Weisswurst. G\ calf's head with up to 10 per­ their sausage complerely - with­ This particular form of corn­ cent skin and connective tissue) out cutting its content into pieces. murucation must have been the and cooked rind. Salt, pepper, Then they dip the naked sausage result of the consumption of a ()nions, lemon and sometimes in sweet mustard in order to con­ fair quantity ofWeissbier (wheat nutmeg bur always fresh parsley sume it bit by bit. beer) on the part of the "Zuzler" .. mixed beyond recognjtion with Others cut lengthwise the upper but even some Bavarians that were -+he minced veal - is the icing of part of the skin of the "short thick more sober have been observed t his genuine child of Munich, the white one" - it is supposed to be exchanging heated words and get­ Weisswurst. about 5 ½ inches long and weigh ting quite rough over the question How serious people take the between 2.3 and 3.2 ounces. They of how to consume the "white purity dictate for Weisswurst fold the sausage open as a surgeon one" properly. \iecomes apparent when you look would the peritoneum of one of As to why Weisswursts are not Cit the different offerings: There his v ictims. Then they pry the ordered in pairs but separately, ~re at least fi ve producers that mass, more or less gracefully, out there is a plausible but no longer -+.brow Weisswurst on the market of the skin. valid explanation: In the old days, in canned form. Years ago, turkey Another faction cuts the sau­ the Brat was filled into the casing Weisswurst was introduced with sage into two pieces and then, by right when the guest ordered it. i:he orais.e of the Bavarian gov­ applying pressure to the ~ea.led The freshly fil led intestine was ernment. And not star only cook off end, squeezes out the ~ppro- then boiled. The waiter therefore .