© Rachel Lowerson, Dave Parker and The Vikings 1992 Introduction 4 Section 1 ...................................................................................................................... 5 Late Anglo Saxon Costume............................................................................ 5 Introduction ............................................................................................. 5 i. The evidence ............................................................................... 5 a. The evidence of art................................................................. 5 b. The literary evidence ......................................................... 5 c. The evidence of archaeology ................................................. 5 The Basic Guide to Anglo-Saxon Clothing ................................................... 6 i. Fabrics and colours ..................................................................... 6 ii. Anglo-Saxon male dress ............................................................. 6 a. The Tunic................................................................................ 6 b. The Leg Covering ................................................................... 7 c. The Cloak................................................................................ 8 d. Footwear................................................................................. 9 e. The Belt or Girdle ................................................................. 10 f. Jewellery................................................................................. 10 iii. Anglo-Saxon female dress ......................................................... 11 a. The Underdress..................................................................... 11 b. The Overdress....................................................................... 11 c. The Headdress ...................................................................... 12 d. Footwear................................................................................ 12 e. The Belt or Girdle .................................................................. 13 f. Jewellery................................................................................. 13 iv. Children’s' costume and toy................................s ...................... 13 v. Arms and Armour ....................................................................... 16 a. The Shield ............................................................................ 16 b. Helmets.................................................................................. 17 c. Armour ................................................................................... 17 d. The Spear.............................................................................. 18 e. The Seax ............................................................................... 19 f. Seax Sheaths ......................................................................... 20 g. Swords................................................................................... 20 h. Scabbards ............................................................................. 21 i. Axes ........................................................................................ 22 vi. Adaptations to Different Contexts .................................................... 23 a. Adaptations to the ninth century............................................ 23 b. Adaptations to the eleventh century...................................... 25 c. Adaptations for female combatants....................................... 26 Suggestions for further reading ........................................................................ 27 Section 2 ..................................................................................................................... 29 The Detailed Guide ......................................................................................... 29 i. Textiles and Dyes .................................................................................. 29 a. Introduction ....................................................................................... 29 b. Spinning............................................................................................ 29 c. Weaving............................................................................................ 30 d. Dyeing and finishing .......................................................................... 30 e. Decorative techniques ....................................................................... 31 ii. Anglo-Saxon male dress ....................................................................... 32 a. The tunic ........................................................................................... 32 © Rachel Lowerson, Dave Parker and The Vikings 1992 b. The long gown .................................................................................. 34 c. The leg covering ............................................................................... 34 d. The cloak .......................................................................................... 36 e. Undergarments................................................................................. 38 f. Footwear............................................................................................ 38 g. Hats and Hoods................................................................................ 40 h. The Belt or Girdle.............................................................................. 40 i. Jewellery ............................................................................................ 43 a. Brooches................................................................................ 44 b. Rings...................................................................................... 45 c. Armrings................................................................................. 45 d. Pendants and necklaces ....................................................... 45 j. Bags and Pouches............................................................................. 45 iii. Anglo-Saxon Female Dress................................................................... 46 a. The Underdress................................................................................ 47 b. The Overdress.................................................................................. 48 c. The Sleeveless Mantle ..................................................................... 48 d. The Cloak ......................................................................................... 49 e. Undergarments................................................................................. 50 f. Footwear............................................................................................ 50 g. The Headdress ................................................................................. 51 h. The Belt or Girdle.............................................................................. 52 i. Jewellery ............................................................................................ 52 j. Bags and Pouches............................................................................. 52 iv. Children's Costume and Toys ........................................................ 53 v. Ecclesiastical Dress ..................................................................................... 53 vi. Arms and Armour ........................................................................................ 55 a. Introduction ....................................................................................... 55 b. Armour .............................................................................................. 55 c. The Byrnie......................................................................................... 56 d. Alternative to mail ............................................................................. 58 e. The Helmet ....................................................................................... 59 f. The Shield.......................................................................................... 61 g. The Spear......................................................................................... 68 h. The Seax .......................................................................................... 71 i. The Sword.......................................................................................... 75 j. The Axe.............................................................................................. 81 k. Banners............................................................................................. 82 l. Missile Weapons................................................................................ 82 a. The Bow . 82 b. The Crossbow ....................................................................... 83 c. The Sling................................................................................ 83 List of Abbreviations ................................................................................................. 84 List of References...................................................................................................... 85 © Rachel Lowerson, Dave Parker and The Vikings 1992 Introduction This guide is aimed at those Society members who wish to add an Anglo-Saxon costume to their wardrobe. We recognise that levels of interest in Saxon dress vary widely within the Society,