Exploring the Mississippi from the Twin Cities to the Quad Cities May-June 2007 Summer Travel Issue Biking the River on the 10-state Mississippi River Trail 5 Questions to ask when you Rent a Houseboat Rivertown Festival Calendar www.big-river.com AT C LLIIA BELLE BBO CRU UU E S AAM UI JJ W EE SSE E A TT S OO TH A S N IN A Real Steam-Powered Paddlewheel! The Julia Belle Swain Steamboat, all decked out in red, white and blue bunting, provides a sentimental journey on a real steamboat cruising the Mighty Missis- sippi. The picturesque Julia Belle offers back-to-yesteryear public tours, private charters, and special theme cruises on the portion of the Mississippi that Mark Twain called the prettiest. Escape from the hurried world and go back to a more genteel time.The sound of the calliope and the whistle blowing brings back a voice of America’s past. The dining salon and mahogany bar provide meal and beverage service in the gracious manner of a bygone era. Come aboard for a local cruise with great food or just a short refreshing sight- seeing trip. Day trips depart from La Crosse, Wis. to Winona, Minn.; Wabasha, Minn.; Lansing, Iowa; or Prairie du Chien, Wis. Don’t wait to explore the many possibilities on the beautiful Mississippi! Reservations are required. Call 800-815-1005. For schedules online: www.juliabelle.com Day trips Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Cruises Weddings Company Outings Reunions, etc. Great River Steamboat Company, 227 Main Street, La Crosse, WI 54601 (608) 784-4882 Toll-free 1-800-815-1005 www.juliabelle.com May-June 2007 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 1 C OVERING THE U PPER M ISSISSIPPI SIN C E 1 9 9 3 TM May-June 2007 FEATURES 15 River Shipping Snapshot Downbound is down, and upbound is up. Biking the Mississippi River 16 Trail A 3,000-mile bicycle route links Lake Itasca and the Gulf of Mexico. By Marc Hequet 20 Summer Festivals on the River It’s time for music, food, parades and fes- tive fun. 22 Guide to Renting a Houseboat Have you ever thought of exploring the Aaron Steinmann river in the comfort of a houseboat? By Becky Sisco Rattlesnakes on the Bluffs and 26 Backwaters DEPARTMENTS Timber rattlers and massasaugas may rattle some humans, but they have more 5 From the Riverbank to fear from us. Nudity, big fish and secret spots. By Allen Blake Sheldon By Reggie McLeod 30 Chateau Frontenac 7 River News An 1880s resort is transformed in a small Cicadas, fish or spouse, River Bluffs rivertown with a rich history. Resort By Kate Halverson Advertiser Index Taking it to the Bank — 63 Where did I see that ad…? 35 the joys of bank fishing The investment in gear is small, but the 64 River Places rewards are priceless. Army Road in New Albin, Iowa By Rich Brockmann Drive deep into the backwaters. 38 Restaurant Review By Pamela Eyden Buzzard Billy’s Cover: Bicyclers cross the Mississippi on the Sabula- Discover Cajun dining in La Crosse. Savanna bridge. (Branson Hurt) By Reggie McLeod Wild Rose Timberworks Wild Rose Timberworks Traditional timber construction Traditional timber construction for homes, barns, and shelters. for homes, barns, and shelters. Wild Rose Timberworks Wild Rose Timberworks Located in Decorah, Iowa Located in Decorah, Iowa (563) 382-8500 or (563) 382-6245 (563) 382-8500 or (563) 382-6245 www.wildrosetimberworks.com www.wildrosetimberworks.com We’ve got the river covered Wild Rose Timberworks Wild Rose Timberworks • 40' - 50' Slip Rental • Full Service Gas Dock • Marine/Gift Store • Mechanical Services From recreational boating to commercial river transportation. The Waterways Journal Inc. family of publications delivers news important • Inside/Outside Winter to you. Storage on Site • Protected Harbor Call (314) 241-7354 for more Traditionalbordered by Mississippi timber construction Traditional timber construction information. & Sabula Lakes for homes, barns, and shelters. for homes, barns, and shelters. www.waterwaysjournal.net www.quimbyscruisingguide.com ISLAND CITY HARBOR SABULA, IOWA 563-687-2825 www.heartlandboating.com Wild Rose Timberworks Wild Rose Timberworks WWW.ISLANDCILocatedTYHARBOR in Decorah,.COM Iowa M ILE 534.7 RBD Located in Decorah, Iowa (563) 382-8500 or (563) 382-6245 (563) 382-8500 or (563) 382-6245 www.wildrosetimberworks.com www.wildrosetimberworks.com 4 BIG RIVER MAGAZINE / May-June 2007 From the Riverbank Reggie McLeod Editor/Publisher NUDITY, BIG FISH AND SECRET SPOTS here aren’t really any secret However, last issue’s traditional April places on the river, but there spoof “Too Much Nature?” did not Tare many out-of-the-way places provoke much response, in spite of Big River™ where you will encounter few, if any, the nudity and numerous clues that I people. In our new “River Places” am too embarrassed to point out. The Big River Magazine (ISSN 1070-8340) is pub- lished six times a year by Open River Press with column, we will visit some of those real news is often so strange that we assistance from Riverwise, Inc., 70 1/2 E. Fourth places. We feel confident that our apparently need to go to greater ex- St., PO Box 204, Winona, MN 55987; (507) readers appreciate places like New tremes with our April efforts. I will 454-5949; fax: (507) 454-2133; email: [email protected]; Albin’s Army Road enough to take remember that next year. website: www.big-river.com care of them and respect the wildlife My mention of Kentucky coffee Reggie McLeod .........editor/publisher and other people who use them. trees in the March-April issue did Molly McGuire ........managing editor I can’t talk or write about places provoke several responses from read- Pamela Eyden ..........news/photo editor like this without recalling Yogi Ber- ers who were quick to tell me where ra’s insightful observation, “Nobody I could find quite a few of the trees Contributing editors goes to Coney Island anymore. It’s too growing in Minnesota, despite my Marc Hequet .........Twin Cities crowded.” claim that they had not crossed the Becky Sisco ............Dubuque, Iowa So, please keep the dog on the border from Iowa. While I appreciate Maureen J. Cooney ..office/sales leash and don’t throw any noisy beer their help, I should point out that in Kathy Delano ...........sales/design parties. all of the cases but one, the trees had Robert Copeland .......bookkeeping/subscriptions The story about bank fishing will been planted either in town or in an Patricia McGuire .....bills & renewals assistant also take you to some out-of-the-way arboretum. I am looking forward to a Subscriptions are $27 for one year, $49 for two places. My method for finding the hike this summer near the Root River years or $4.95 per single issue. Send subscrip- tions, single-copy orders and change-of-address hot bank-fishing spots is to look for — in Minnesota, not too far from the requests to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, MN clusters of those little styrofoam bait Iowa line — to visit a natural grove 55987. cups. I keep a couple of plastic shop- of Kentucky coffee trees. If it is late Second-class postage paid at Winona, MN. ping bags with my tackle, so I can enough in the season, I’ll collect some POSTMASTER: send change-of-address clean up the spot before I leave. That seeds, make some Kentucky coffee requests to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, MN way I keep the river clean and con- and report the results in this column. 55987. ceal the spot from the next wandering It’s always especially difficult to Big River Magazine, Volume 15, Number 3, copyright May 2007. Reproduction in whole or angler. work on the May-June magazine, be- in part without written permission of the pub- And, speaking of out-of-the-way cause the feature stories set me off lisher is prohibited. places, we have noticed over the years to daydreaming about my summer Printed by W&C Printing, Winona, Minn. that our readers have a particular plans. Every summer I try to do some fondness for stories that include hu- new things on the river and visit man nudity or giant animals. So our some new places. Maybe I’ll see you readers should be happy to find both there. F topics in our River News in this issue. Contacts (800) 303-8201. For information about stories, columns and River News, contact Reggie McLeod, Pamela Eyden or Molly McGuire ([email protected]). For information about placing an ad in Big River or for information about selling Big River magazines contact Kathy Delano or Maureen J. Cooney ([email protected]). We must receive ads by May 8 to get them into the July-August 2007 magazine. May-June 2007 / BIG RIVER MAGAZINE 5 MISSISSIPPI RIVERFRONT CONDOS The Twisted Chicken “Beyond The Ordinary” ❁ Fresh Fish Flown In ❁ Organic & Locally Grown Produce Eclectic Dining Lunch & Dinner Art Gallery Coffee Bar Spring Hours: SUNDAY BRUNCH (In June) 9 - 2 p.m ! NOW AVAILABLE LUNCH 11 to 2 p.m. Wednesday – Saturday DINNER Have your own river-front residence and 5 to 9 p.m. dock for your boat ! 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