OUK VICEEEGAL LIFE IN INDIA SELECTIONS FROM MY JOURNAL 1884— 1888 BY THE MARCHIONESS OF DUFFERIN & AVA IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. II FOURTH THOUSAND WITH PORTRAIT AND MAP LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 1890 All riglits reserved CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME CHAPTER VIII SPEING AND SUMMEE, 1 886 March 9 to October 24 PAGE The Begum of Bhopal— Visit to Native Houses — Mrs. Ameer Ali's Party— The Black Hole—Durbhunga—Chukkia—The Maha- rajah of Benares—Benares—Bamnugger—The most sacred Temple in India—The Water Festival— Opening of Muir College at Allahabad— Cawnpore— Memorial Well— Simla—At Home — ' ' The Midge —Inverarm—Distribution of Household— Sipi Fair— Naldera —Gymkhana—Death of General Hughes—The Silver Question—Eton Dinner at Sir Frederick Boberts'— Ripon Hospital Fete —Sky Baces —Fancy Dress Ball— The Weather — The Viceroy's Clay Pigeons —The Children's Fancy Dress Party — Sport at Dhamin—Garden Party—Fete at Armsdell— Visit of Duke and Duchess of Connaught 1 CHAPTER IX AUTUMN TOUE, 1 886 LUCKNOW, BOMBAY, HYDEEABAD, MYSOEE October 25 to December 15 Lord Clandeboye's illness—Alighur—Lucknow—Bombay—Malabar Point—The Towers of Silence - Departure of Lady Helen and Miss Thynne - Purdah Party—The Parsee Ladies—The Descen- dant of Aga Khan—Ball at the Yacht Club — The Caves of Elephanta—Poona—Drive from Nandgaon to Ellora—The Caves —Temple of Kailas—Tomb of Aurungzebe—Aurungabad—Dau- latabad — Ahmednugger — Hyderabad — The Residency — The —— G] OUB VICEBEGAL LIFE IN INDIA Nizam—Sports—Banquet at the Palace—Deputation from Berar — Secunderabad—Bolarum—Nawab Salar Jung's Water Party — Panther spearing—Amazon Guard—Long Kailway Journey —Mysore — The Maharajah — The Palace — The Maharani's School—Deputation from Coorg—Entertainment at the Town Hall— Seringapatam—Bangalore—Madras—Departure of Sir M. E. Grant-Duff — Arrival of the Mirzapore — The Viceroy in Southern India 57 CHAPTEK X CALCUTTA, 1886-7 December 15, 1886, to March 15, 1887 Calcutta—Christmas Day—The Nawab of Dacca— Tent-pegging Visitors —Dance on board the Clan Macpherson—Chanderna- gore—Torpedo Practice in the Hooghly—Leper missions—Fund Meeting at the Town Hall—The Ezra Hospital—The Bethune School—The Campbell Hospital— Jubilee Day—New Honours The Parade— The Cathedral—Assembly on the Maidan—The Illuminations — School Feast at Barrackpore—The Bachelors' Jubilee Ball—Jubilee Bridge over the Hooghly— Presentation of Colours to the Royal Canadians—Missionary Schools in the Paddy-fields—The Misses Hoare—Farewell to Sir Rivers Thompson 99 CHAPTEE XI DAEJEELING AND DEHRA DUN March 16 to April 23, 1887 Railway Journey from Calcutta to Darjeeling— The Hill People Praying Flags—Mountain Ride—Bhootia Dance— The Market Thibetan Drama—Buddhist Temples—Tendook—Lepcha House —Kinchinjunga—In a Trolly down the Himalayas—The Vice- roy in the Terai—Agra— Guest of the Maharajah of Bhurtpore —Dr. Hilson^The Female Medical School—Night in a Dak Gharry from Saharanpore to Dehra Dun—Our Temporary Home — ' —Tiger shooting ' Cut off with a Shilling — Swarm of Bees- Mussoorie — A Tea-garden — The Ganges. — Hurdwar — The Ganges Canal—Roorki—The Sawalik Hills—The Jubilee Col- lecting Cards—American Missionary School—The Goorkhas Loss of the Tasmania—Journey to Simla 130 — — CONTENTS OF VOLUME II [7 CHAPTER XII SIMLA, 1887 April 24 to November 2 PAGE — ' The New Viceregal Lodge—The Town Hall ' Country Entertain- ments—The Queen's Ball—Kipon Hospital Fete—Fever—Horse Show — Lacly Eoberts' Jubilee Fancy-dress Ball — Silver- wedding Dress—Daily Life— Visit to the Hindu Temple —Three French Travellers— The Persian Consul- General—Presentation of the Order of the Sun—Letter from the Shah — Zenana Mission __ School—The Chadwick Waterfall—Work Society—School Feast —Nana Sahib's Widowed Sister—Fete at Armsdell—Gymkhana —Mushobra— Lord William Beresford's Picnic— Cholera at Quetta—Tamasha for the Workpeople—Our Silver-wedding Day 170 CHAPTER XIII OUE AUTUMN TOUE, 1 887 —KAPUETHALLA, KAEACHI, THE N.-W. FEONTIEE, AND LAHOEE November 3 to December 15 The Amir and Mr. O'Meara— Kapurthalla — Shooting—Sunday—The Stables— Government Offices —Bridge over the Indus at Sukkur Karachi— The Kailway Question—Harbour Defences — Conversa- tion by Telegraph— The Zoological Gardens— H.H. the Mir Hasan Ali Khan—Deputation from Hyderabad— Scinde Ball in the Frere Hall—The Chappa Kift—Quetta—The Bolan Dehra Ghazi Khan—The Salt Mines at Khewra—Peshawar Skinner's Horse—The Durbar— The Khyber Pass—Ali Musjid Mission Church — Bazaar—Bawal Pindi—Leper Asylum — Cavalry Keview at Lawrencepore—Lahore Cathedral— The City —Amritsar— St. Catherine's Hospital—Agra—A Medical Day,_ —Allahabad— Calcutta 195 CHAPTER XIV CALCUTTA, 1887-1888 December 17, 1887, to March 28, 1888 The Viceroy arrives at Sealdah—A Native Officer's Impressions of England—The Drawing-room— Christmas — The King of Oude's Garden—Empress Day—Female Dispensary—Little Sisters of the Poor—Lord and Lady Eeay—A Busy Week—Lord and Lady — 8] OUB VICEREGAL LIFE IN INDIA PAGE Connemara — Nepaul Visitors—Chapter of the Order of the Indian Empire—Lord Dufferin's Resignation of the Viceroyalty —Prince Bernard of Saxe-Weimar—La Martini ere Schools—Jour- ney to Darjeeling—Kunjeet Kiver—the Ghoom Kock—Llama Dances—Lepcha Archers —The Sikkim Expedition— Calcutta Free Schools—Native Dinner—Visit to Lily Cottage— Calcutta Sky Races — The Presidency Volunteers— Sir Jotendra Mohun Tagore—Farewell Eeception at the Town Hall—Uttarpara The Viceroy visits the Slums of Calcutta— Calcutta Charities — The Academy of Music—Bengali Musical Instruments . 237 CHAPTER XV SIMLA, l888 March 29 to November 12 Journey from Calcutta— Lucknow—Tiger shooting at Bewah—Enter- tainment by the Talukdars of Oude— Cholera in Kashmir up- sets our Plans—Simla—The Duke of Orleans—The Garden Fete — Sir Frederick Roberts' Eton Dinner— The Simla Races—The Viceregal Lodge—The "Weather is 'Drizzling ' —Asman Jah from Hyderabad—The Black Mountain Expedition—Masonic Ball Visit to Lady Roberts at Mushobra— General McQueen and the Afridis —The Simla Club Ball—Good News from Sikkim—The Children's Fancy-dress Ball—The Mayo Schools—Fair on Tara Devi—Chapter of the Orders of the Star of India and of the Indian Empire—Excursion to Narkunda—The Dak Bungalow —Mattiana— Hattoo—The Baghi Forest—Bengali Children from Zenana Schools—The Nuns— Snowstorm— Packing up . 279 CHAPTER XVI OUR LAST TOUR IN INDIA November 13 to December 14, 3 888 Good-bye to Simla—Lahore—The Lady Aitchison Hospital—Depu- tations — Patiala — The Camp—Durbars — Offers of Native Princes towards Frontier Defences—Lady Helen burnt out —The Rajah's Store-room—Native Sports —Last Visit to Agra—On the Sick List—Down the Ganges—Dacca—The Nawabs—The Ele- phants—Surma Valley Light Horse— Manipuri Polo Players — Ball—Return to Calcutta— St. Andrew's Dinner—Deputation *r-from Ladies of Bengal, Orissa, and Behar—Last Days in Cal- cutta—Arrival of Lord Lansdowne— Departure from Government House—Bombay 320 OUR VICEREGAL LIFE IN INDIA CHAPTEK VIII SPRING AND SUMMER, 1 886 March 9 to October 24 Tuesday, March gth, to Saturday, 20th. —I have not had anything interesting to tell you this week. A. came back with measles, and has been shut up. He is quite well, and only bored. Mr. Tennyson is very slightly better, but has not turned the corner yet. The Maharajah of Jeypore and the Begum of Bhopal have come to Calcutta to see the Viceroy, and durbars have been held for both, and I have twice met the Begum. The first time I received her here. Mrs. Panioty came to translate for me, and at the appointed hour a tiny lady arrived, her face completely covered, a child of ten accompanying her. This was the Begum and her grand- daughter ! We sat down in a row and paid compliments to each other, and the Begum uncovered and displayed a little face with big eyes, and then I spoke of my Fund, telling her that I heard she wished to do something in VOL. II. B 2 OUB V1GEBEGAL LIFE IN INDIA ch. viii the way of establishing a dispensary and female ward in her own place. Then she asked for Nelly, and we put on the wreaths we had prepared for her, and handed her out again. The child is very self-possessed, and when she came to fetch the Viceroy to pay his return visit to her grandmother she comported herself like a princess and a grown-up person. Her face is still un- covered, and she is a handsome little girl. I went the next day to pay my visit, Mrs. Panioty, Helen, Eachel, and Blanche going with me ; and the Begum on this occasion stated that she wished to sub- scribe i,oooZ. to my Fund, and that she would defray the whole cost of a dispensary at Bhopal. When we were leaving, trays were set down before us, and the Begum pro- ceeded to open some jewel-cases that lay on mine ; but I said at once that I could not take anything valuable, but that I should be pleased to accept a hand-screen which was there too, and which she said she had worked herself. Yesterday we had a garden party, and the child came, and was so pleased with some little two-year-old boys and girls that were with their parents, only unfortunately she always wanted to lift them, and the children ob- jected. The Maharajah of Jeypore also came to the garden party. Sunday was Nelly's birthday, and by way of keeping it we went in the launch on the river and had tea. The fresh air was very pleasant. Poor Mr. Tennyson continues very ill, and his wife is rather knocked up ; Lady Ely is also suffering from an i886 CALCUTTA 3 accident, and you have no idea what a walking about one has in this big house to visit all the invalids.