List of First Ascents THE COAST SOUTH FROM ABERDEEN Pre-1910 The Long Slough Pinnacle H.G.Drummond and party Pre-1910 Through Route, Milestone Inlet H.G.Drummond “anyone who goes down and up without losing any buttons may consider himself lucky” C.C.J. Vol. XV No 84 (1945) Pre-1912 The Slant J.McCoss Pre-1912 Creased Slab J.McCoss Pre-1912 Mask J.McCoss Pre-1912 Waterpipe Chimney Cairngorm Club Party (including J.McCoss?) Pre-1912 left hand trap dyke, Blowup Nose Cairngorm Club Party (including J.McCoss?) Pre-1933 Milestone Direct Parker, H.G.Drummond and party (G.T.R Watt, R.P.Yunnie. D.M.Carle according to History section) Pre-1933 Slab Top Chimney J.McCoss 1932 19 March Long Step Crack R.P.Yunnie (G.T.R Watt, R.P.Yunnie. D.M.Carle according to History section) 1934 Southern Diagonal Traverse W.N.Aitken (top rope) 1944 Direct Route (Aitken's Pinnacle) W.T.Hendry 1944 The Sickle W.T.Hendry pre-1945 in guide text 1944 St Andrew's Crack W.T.Hendry Pre-1945 Aitken’s Pinnacle – Northern Sea- W.T.Hendry, G.Lumsden, Dr Cruickshank Level Traverse Requires the helpful co-operation of a calm sea and rough barnacles Pre-1945 Aitken’s Pinnacle – Southern Sea- Level Traverse Pre-1945 Rainbow Wall Pre-1945 Puffin's Perch W.T.Hendry Pre-1945 Bird’s Nest Crack J.McCoss Pre-1945 Scylla W.T.Hendry Pre-1945 Charybdis 1945 Parallel Cracks D.A.Thomas (solo) 1945 Overhang Crack J.McCoss “This climb should be thoroughly investigated with a rope from above before an attempt is made to lead it.” C.C.J. Vol. XV No 84 (1945) pre-1948 Rainbow Crack 1950 in guide text 1948 The Great Cave Route D.A.Sutherland, G.Morris, W.D.Brooker The red ledge finish to this route has been likened to the Great Traverse on the Cima Grande di Lavaredo 1948 Girdle Traverse D.A.Sutherland, W.D.Brooker 1948 Seaward Start D.A.Sutherland, W.D.Brooker 1948 Puffin Overhang W.D.Brooker 1948 Swing Seam W.D.Brooker, D.A.Sutherland 1948 Brooker's Arete W.D.Brooker, D.A.Sutherland 1949 The White Seam D.A.Sutherland, W.D.Brooker Originally led in nails 1949 The Hairline W.D.Brooker, D.A.Sutherland 1949 Chisel Chimney W.D.Brooker, D.A.Sutherland 1950s Last Thread Traverse 1950s Fall Out Chimney 1950s South Wall Traverse (South Doonies Yawn) 1950s North Wall Traverse (South Doonies 1960s in Yawn) guide text 1950s Deceptive Traverse “It was first traversed when a high tide was running and the pioneers, not realising there was only five feet of foaming sea beneath them, found it very exciting” 1950s Zombie 1950s Zeta 1950s Humpback Girdle 1950s Hanging Block Climb 1950s Seaward Chimney 1950s Quartz Corner 1950s Vengeance 1950s The Shute 1950s Windy Ledge 1950s Astra 1950s Black Rock Chimney 1950s Severe at back of inlet, Black Rock Gulch 1950s Very Difficult at back of inlet, Black Rock Gulch 1950s Red Slab routes, Black Rock Gulch 1950s The Purple Way 1950s The Plumbline 1950s Bass Buttress 1950s Willie's Way 1950s Labyrinth Nose 1950s The Pobble 1950s Gangplank 1950s The Rack 1950s Tiger's Terror Originally graded Very Difficult 1950s North-East Edge 1950s South-East Diedre 1950s Rumbledown Wall 1950s Black Corner 1950s Nigg Wall 1950s Nog Crack 1950s The Twin Overhangs 1950s Puffin Wall 1950s Jimmy’s Crack 1950s Jade Buttress Buttress named after the initials of the four climbers who made the first ascent. 1950s Jade Traverse 1950s Tension Crack 1950s Limpet Crack 1950s The Rat Trap 1950s The Catwalk 1950s The Styx 1950s Cerberus 1950s Hades “Wings and rubber suckers helpful” 1950s Broken Buttress 1950s Butterfly Wall (1 peg) 1950s Grey Groove (2 pegs) 1950s Optimist’s Route 1950s Painted Wall 1950s The Main Girdle (Puck’s Route) The hardest route at South Cove in the 50s 1950 North Descent W.D.Brooker 1950 Rock Bottom Traverse W.D.Brooker 1950 Brooker’s Original Route W.D.Brooker Originally called Sunday Suits Climb 1950 Rose Rib D.A.Sutherland, W.D.Brooker 1954 Insect Wall T.W.Patey, M.Taylor 1954 Nicol’s Eliminate A.G.Nicol “The test piece of South Cove. The Godfather of this route estimated the standard at ‘Difficult’” – 1st Edition of Guide 1957 Red Grooves W.D.Brooker, R.W.P.Barclay 1958 Back Drop J.L.T.Hay 1958 Acid Drop J.L.T.Hay 1958 Pandrop J.L.T.Hay 1958 Eve’s Drop J.L.T.Hay 1958 Drop Not J.L.T.Hay 1958 The Mincer T.W.Patey, M.Smith “An inch by inch struggle first under a chokestone and then by back and knee and jamming to the top” 1958 Stiletto J.L.T.Hay 1958 Capitol Wall J.L.T.Hay First Edition of Guide published 1960 1960s Right-Hand Corner 1960s Central Arete 1960s Central Groove 1960s Pike Wall 1960s Shield 1960s Trango (aid) Named after reference in the first edition of the guide to the overhangs offering good practice for climbing the Trango Tower or the West Face of the Dru 1960s Yellow Edge 1960s Yellow Diedre 1960s The Bean D.Pyper 1961 Mo's Traverse D.Mercer 1965 North-West Corner J.Light 1960s in guide text 1965 North Facing Wall J.Light 1965 North Wall Traverse (North Doonies J.Light Yawn) 1965 Jerry’s Ramp J.Light 1999 in Climbed in reverse on first ascent of guide North Wall Traverse text 1965 Jerry Light's Traverse J.Light 1966 Medusa A.Fyffe 1966 Pink Slab Traverse A.Fyffe 1967 North Face of Long Slough Pinnacle G.S.Strange, R.Simpson 1967 The Exit Crack N.D.Keir, B.S.Findlay 1967 Black Chimney N.D.Keir, B.S.Findlay 1967 Corbett’s Crack D.Duncan, A.Corbett 1967 Mac’s Route D.Duncan, W.Mackie 1968 Boundary Corners N.D.Keir, B.S.Findlay 1969 August Mythical Wall M.Rennie Mythical Wall had been top-roped and climbed on aid in the 1950s. Rennie led it with two pitons only for protection after top-roping Second Edition of Guide published 1969 1969 26 October Girdle Traverse (The Mincer Cliff) B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange 1969 26 October Central Crack B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange 1969 Johnny’s Corner J.Ingram 1969 The Spigolo R.Maguire, D.Innes An early attempt by T.W.Patey, J.M.Taylor, W.D.Brooker in 1952 ended when part of an overhang crumbled away under the leader, leaving him hanging by his hands. As soon as a piton could be firmly inserted, the last man climbed all the way round and put down a rope from the top for the last 80 feet 1969 Day Tripper J.Ingram, H.Smith 1969 Insect Groove H.Smith, D.Stuart early Cadaver B.Lawrie 1970s 1970s Turnpike 1960s in guide text 1970s Quartz Deviant N.D.Keir 1960s in guide text 1970s Left Face 1960s in guide text 1970s Humpback Crack 1960s in guide text 1970s The Black Ramp 1960s in guide text 1970s Gold Cracks 1970s Vasectomy (Top roped. First lead unknown) 1970s Ecky’s Crack Named after discovery of ‘Ecky’ scratched in the rock 1970 24 May Spinnaker G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay 1970 The Go Between M.Rennie 1960s in guide text 1970 Petite Diedre A.Frost 1971 23 October Lobotomy M.Freeman, G.S.Strange 1971 23 October La Rainure G.S.Strange, M.Freeman 1971 HVS overhang at Black Rock Gulch D.Innes 1971 The Bifurcator D.Innes, R.Maguire 1971 The Slide D.Innes, R.Maguire 1971 Aardvark D.Innes, R.Maguire 1971 Mong D.Innes, R.Maguire 1971 Trunk 1971 Birthday Treat D.Innes, R.Maguire 1972 Talisker M.Ross, R.Maguire 1972 Whisky Traverse 1960s in the guide text 1972 Twisted Crack D.Innes 1972 Sneak D.Innes, R.Maguire 1972 Mellow Yellow 1972 Akimbo Crack D.Dinwoodie, A.N.Other 1972 Quartz Bicycle J.Mothersele, D.Riley 1972 The Wandering of the One-Toed J.Mothersele, D.Riley Wizard 1972 Girdle Traverse (Bruin Cove) D.Innes, D.Dinwoodie 1972 The Green Manalishi I.Robb, J.Ingram, J.Bower 1972 Rotwand D.Dinwoodie, D.Innes (1 peg rest) FFA A.Barley (1976) 1973 3 March The Waterline D.Dinwoodie (solo) 1973 3 March The Waterfront D.Dinwoodie (solo) (done before?) 1973 Free Fall D.Wright, N.D.Keir (direct) D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness (indirect) 1973 Eastern Girdle D.Innes, D.Dinwoodie 1973 Grand Diedre D.Dinwoodie, D.Innes 1974 Cobra N.D.Keir, A.Lawson 1974 Central Corner A.Lawson 1974 Hanging Slab M.Milner (solo) 1974 Wallace (not the original name) G.S.Strange, N.D.Keir (solo) 1974 Grommitt (not the original name) G.S.Strange, N.D.Keir (solo) 1974 Tiddles (not the original name) G.S.Strange, N.D.Keir (solo) 1974 Absolutely Barking (not the original G.S.Strange, N.D.Keir (solo) name) 1974 Jaunt N.D.Keir 1974 The Fartin' Freckle N.D.Keir, M.Freeman 1974 Winter Boot Wall N.D.Keir, M.Freeman 1974 The Mitre D.Wright, S.Bateson 1974 The Hedonist D.Wright, S.Bateson 1975 29 April The Friability Drive R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange 1975 11 May red band of rock at Black Cove R.A.Smith, N.D.Keir, G.S.Strange 1975 20 May Spinnaker Direct R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange 1975 25 June Frolic G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold 1975 28 September El Dorado G.S.Strange, G.Muhlemann 1975 First Overhang R.A.Smith 1975 Second Overhang R.A.Smith (?) 1975 The Spinechiller B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie 1975 Old Tawny Traverse 1975 Ale and Farewell G.Muhlemann, A.N.Other The second on the rope was a visiting Australian climber.