ABSTRACT MANDAL, SONALI. Colorant Database for Cationized Cotton. (Under the direction of Dr. Peter J. Hauser.) The use of cationized cotton is currently one of the sustainable methods of dyeing cotton with anionic dyes like fiber-reactive and direct dyes. It enables the dyeing of cotton without the use of salt and with higher dye exhaustion. During the dyeing phase of wet processing, the effluent load is reduced considerably with good fastness properties. However, even with all these benefits the use of cationized cotton lacks acceptance in the industry. The most commonly used cationization agent is 3-chloro-2- hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (CHPTAC). Several studies reported appearance of change in hue in samples dyed with cationized cotton. This problem potentially restricts the use of current primary databases in predicting dye recipes when using cationized cotton. Hence it is necessary to develop new primaries for cationized cotton. In this study, a colorant database was developed for 23 reactive dyes of various classes and manufacturing companies. These dyes were selected on the basis of their current use in industry as primary colorants for developing shades. Two treatment levels of CHPTAC were applied on cotton and samples were dyed at various % shades. It was observed that cationized cotton primaries gave better match to the standard than conventional primaries on cationized cotton. © Copyright 2013 by Sonali Mandal All Rights Reserved Colorant Database for Cationized Cotton by Sonali Mandal A thesis submitted to the Graduate Faculty of North Carolina State University in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Master of Science Textile Chemistry Raleigh, North Carolina 2013 APPROVED BY: Dr. David Hinks Dr. George Hodge Dr. Peter J. Hauser Chair of Advisory Committee DEDICATION This work is dedicated to my father, my mother, my brother, my family and my friends. ii BIOGRAPHY Sonali Mandal, daughter of Uttam Kumar Mandal and Sulekha Mandal, was born on September 28, 1989 in Mumbai, India. She has a younger brother Abhishek Mandal. She graduated from Fr. Agnels Multipurpose School & Junior College in 2007. She obtained her Bachelor of Technology degree in Fiber and Textile Processing Technology from the Institute of Chemical Technology (previously known as University Department of Chemical Technology), Mumbai in 2011. She will receive her Master of Science degree in Textile Chemistry in 2013 and will remain at North Carolina State University to pursue her Doctor of Philosophy degree in Fiber and Polymer Science. iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I want to thank Dr. Peter J. Hauser for his patience, time and guidance during the research and writing this thesis. Also, I want to thank Dr. David Hinks and Dr. George Hodge for their general advice and guidance. A special thanks to Mr. Jeffery Krauss, the dyeing and finishing pilot lab manager for always being available and for helping me perform the experiments in the lab. This research would not have been possible without the financial support of Cotton Incorporated. I want to thank all the staff at Cotton Incorporated, especially Mary Ankeny. I want to also thank my family especially my parents for encouraging me to pursue my graduate studies in the USA and providing constant support throughout my education. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................................................................... vii LIST OF FIGURES ............................................................................................................................................ x 1. Introduction ............................................................................................................................................ 1 2. Literature Review ................................................................................................................................. 3 2.1 Cotton Fibers ................................................................................................................... 3 2.2 Coloration of Cotton ....................................................................................................... 4 2.2.1 Vat Dyes ................................................................................................................... 4 2.2.2 Sulfur Dyes .............................................................................................................. 5 2.2.3 Pigments ................................................................................................................... 5 2.2.4 Natural Dyes ............................................................................................................ 6 2.2.6 Direct Dyes .............................................................................................................. 6 2.2.7 Reactive Dyes .......................................................................................................... 7 2.3 Chemistry of Reactive Dyes ........................................................................................... 7 2.4 Environment issues related to Reactive dyes ................................................................ 13 2.5 Cationization of Cotton with CHPTAC ........................................................................ 15 2.6 Colorant primaries and color matching ........................................................................ 20 2.7 Need for new primaries ................................................................................................. 27 3. Experimental ....................................................................................................................................... 28 v 3.1 Materials ....................................................................................................................... 28 3.2 Equipment ..................................................................................................................... 31 3.3 Pretreatment Procedure ................................................................................................. 31 3.4 Cationization Procedure ................................................................................................ 32 3.5 Dyeing Procedures ........................................................................................................ 32 3.6 Evaluation Procedures .................................................................................................. 41 3.7 Colorant Database Evaluation ...................................................................................... 42 4. Results and Discussion .................................................................................................................... 43 4.1 Dyed Cationized cotton samples ................................................................................... 43 4.2 Comparison of K/S values ............................................................................................ 44 4.3 Comparison of L*, a* and b* values ............................................................................ 68 4.4 Repeatability in dyeing cationized cotton ..................................................................... 80 4.5 Comparison of dye bath exhaustion .............................................................................. 83 4.6 Comparison of fastness test ratings .............................................................................. 85 4.7 Color matching using conventional and cationized primaries ...................................... 94 5. Conclusions ........................................................................................................................................ 106 6. Recommendations for Future Work ........................................................................................ 108 References ................................................................................................................................................... 109 vi LIST OF TABLES Table 1: List of Chemical and Auxiliaries ........................................................................................... 29 Table 2: List of Dyes ................................................................................................................................... 30 Table 3: Concentration of Glauber’s salt and Soda Ash used in Dyeing Samples ............... 33 Table 4: Conventional Dyeing Procedure for Novacron Dyes. .................................................. 35 Table 5: Conventional Dyeing Procedure for Remazol Dyes. .................................................... 36 Table 6: Conventional Dyeing Procedure for Drimaren K Dyes. .............................................. 37 Table 7: Conventional Dyeing Procedure for Drimaren CL Dyes. ............................................ 38 Table 8: Conventional Dyeing Procedure for Drimaren X Dyes. ............................................... 39 Table 9: Dyeing Procedure for Cationized Cotton samples. ....................................................... 40 Table 10: K/Ssum values for Reactive Yellow 143 ........................................................................... 45 Table 11: K/Ssum values for Reactive Yellow 206 ........................................................................... 46 Table 12: K/Ssum values for Reactive Yellow 168 ........................................................................... 47 Table 13: