CHRISTMAS RUSH DELIVERY PRE-FALL WISH 2015 DESIGNERS AND LOOKS FROM CELEBRITIES REVEAL WHAT WON HUNDRED, THEY HOPE TO FIND UNDER NOON BY NOOR THEIR TREES ON THURSDAY. AND PINK RETAILERS STEP UP THEIR DRIVE TO DELIVER TARTAN. PAGE 6 PAGES 10 AND 11 SHOPPERS’ LAST-MINUTE HOLIDAY ORDERS. PAGE 9 WWDTUESDAY, DECEMBER 23, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY HOLIDAY’S FINAL COUNTDOWN Saturday Seemed Super, But Season Might Not Be There also was a strong feeling By DAVID MOIN that consumers still are holding and SHARON EDELSON back their purchasing, playing the same waiting game with retailers SUPER SATURDAY proved to be that they’ve done in recent years. the biggest shopping day of the year “Over the past few years, we’ve no- yet did little to change the modest ticed a trend in customers waiting outlook for the holiday season. until the last minute to fi nish their While last weekend marked the shopping,” said Scott McCall, senior second decent one in a row after vice president of merchandising for early December’s deep lull, the Wal-Mart U.S. “While many custom- forecast for holiday 2014 stands at ers start their Christmas shopping low-single-digit gains for retailing in November, the majority don’t put generally, with the apparel sector their lists away until Dec. 24.” falling far short of that. “There was only about a 2 per- “There are no trends to make cent increase on Super Saturday people feel they have to buy ap- weekend, with $42 billion in sales parel,” said Claudio Del Vecchio, versus last year’s $41 billion,” chairman and chief executive of- said Craig Johnson, president fi cer of Brooks Brothers. “There is of Customer Growth Partners. still a lot of inventory out there. I Saturday’s business alone gener- don’t think spring is going to be bet- ated $23 billion, topping Black ter. It will be more of the same for Friday’s $20 billion in sales, ac- the next few seasons.” cording to CGP. SEE PAGE 8 American Apparel’s Chairman Talks Future Without Charney with turnarounds, told WWD the By EVAN CLARK company is well positioned to get back on track under the guidance COLLEEN BROWN is stepping of incoming chief executive offi cer into the firestorm at American Paula Schneider. Apparel Inc. “There is a solid team there,” As the company’s new chairman, Brown said. “It’s just a matter of she fi nds herself armed with a new strengthening.” poison pill; fi elding interest from She said the fi rm has to refocus Irving Place Capital; contemplating on churning out great fashions and a major turnaround, and fending off getting the most out of operations. the fi rm’s ousted founder and larg- “We really do believe that est shareholder, Dov Charney. American Apparel is a place that can All in a (fi rst) day’s work atop the be extremely productive and a pro- Unfinished whirlwind that is American Apparel. fessional workplace,” Brown said. Brown, who has experience SEE PAGE 12 Business Raw edges and visible tears can be beautiful, as Yang Li illustrates with this chic sleeveless suit. Working a silk and mohair vest with patches of translucent silk draped imprecisely through the back and side, he adds fl uidity to a tailored silhouette. For more, see pages 4 and 5. PHOTO BY ELI SCHMIDT; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MODEL: KRISTINA/IMG; HAIR: KATSUMI MATSUO FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE/ARTMIX; MAKEUP: JAVIER ROMERO USING MAKE UP FOR EVER; MANICURIST: JACKIE SAULSBERY/ARTLIST; FASHION ASSISTANT: MILTON DIXON; PHOTO ASSISTANT: JEREMIAH HULL DIXON; PHOTO ASSISTANT: MILTON ASSISTANT: FASHION JACKIE SAULSBERY/ARTLIST; ROMERO USING MAKE UP FOR EVER; MANICURIST: MAKEUP: JAVIER FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE/ARTMIX; MATSUO MODEL: KRISTINA/IMG; HAIR: KATSUMI 2 WWD TUEDAY, DECEMBER 23, 2014 WWD.COM Xcel Buys Halston Diffusion Lines THE BRIEFING BOX lines, Xcel and House of Halston That infrastructure took a By VICKI M. YOUNG will work together to ensure few years to build, and the com- IN TODAY’S WWD alignment of brand aesthetics for pany learned much from its ini- XCEL BRANDS’’ INC. now can each label and the consumer dis- tial steps in planning out the li- be counted as a part of Team tribution channels each targets. censing program for the Mizrahi Halston, figuratively speaking. Hilco acquired the Halston brand. It also took its learnings How are Xcel has acquired the H brand in 2007 for $25 million. from the fi rst Mizrahi store in Londoners Halston and H by Halston brands Malka, Halston’s ceo, reportedly Southampton, N.Y., in terms of facing the cold? for $27.7 million in a combi- invested $20 million in Halston inventory and the mix of stock- See WWD.com. nation of cash, shares of Xcel when he joined the company as keeping units, in evaluating re- Brands stock and warrants. The chairman and ceo. Malka also is tail store opportunities when assets were held in a Halston on Xcel’s board. considering that component of a intellectual property holding “I’m looking forward to work- brand’s acquisition potential. company that in turn is owned ing with Bob and his team on this “We had a goal three years ago, by a group of investors that in- exciting new project,” Malka said. when we did $50 million in sales, clude Hilco Consumer Capital The deal represents the second to grow that to $500 million by the and Ben Malka, who operate the acquisition for Xcel this year — it end of three years. Now we want business under the name House bought the Judith Ripka brand in to take that to $1 billion, which we of Halston, LLC. Halston will April for $20 million — and the can do organically or through an acquisition,” D’Loren said. He didn’t have a timetable for when Xcel could reach $1 billion PHOTO BY FRANCISCO GOMEZ DE VILLABOA FRANCISCO PHOTO BY We had a goal three years ago, when we in aggregate sales volume for its brands, but added: “We are grow- did $50 million in sales, to grow that to ing very fast. One or two acquisi- tions can get us there.” Super Saturday proved to be the biggest shopping day of the $500 million by the end of three years. D’Loren declined to disclose year yet did little to change the modest outlook for the holiday potential plans for the Halston season. PAGE 1 Now we want to take that to $1 billion. subbrands. However, category ex- tensions via licensing and selling American Apparel’s new chairman Colleen Brown fi nds herself — ROBERT D’LOREN, XCEL BRANDS INC. product offerings across differ- armed with a new poison pill and fi elding interest from Irving ent channels are strategies he’s Place Capital as well as contemplating a major turnaround and put in place for the Mizrahi and fending off the fi rm’s founder Dov Charney. PAGE 1 retain ownership of its Halston third one since September 2011, Ripka business models. and Halston Heritage brands. when it made its fi rst acquisition, The Ripka brand, now fully Xcel Brands has acquired the H Halston and H by Halston Halston Heritage is the core con- which was the Isaac Mizrahi brand integrated at Xcel, will be back brands for $27.7 million in a combination of cash, shares of temporary line. for $31.5 million. at Neiman Marcus in spring Xcel Brands stock and warrants. PAGE 2 Robert D’Loren, chairman and D’Loren is on the lookout for 2015, according to D’Loren, and more brands to add to Xcel’s Mizrahi will soon have a store chief executive offi cer of Xcel, The harbor employers embroiled in a crucial labor contract said, “Halston was an American portfolio. “Acquisitions are a lit- presence, under a licensing ar- covering the West Coast ports are taking the drastic step of icon, and these brands, inspired tle easier for us now that we have rangement, in the Philippines. by his legacy, are an excellent the platform. I don’t think we Separately, both brands will asking for federal mediation. PAGE 2 acquisition for our growing om- will move as fast as some of our be available on QVC in the U.K., nichannel company.” competitors. We are much more Germany and France in 2015, Bulgari opened a 1,800-square-foot store at India’s DLF While D’Loren has hired his design driven, and it’s more chal- Ripka on QVC in Japan in 2015 Emporio mall. The Indian government gave Bulgari the own design and marketing teams lenging for us to integrate design and Mizrahi on QVC in China and approval in June under the recent policy allowing foreign direct to work on the Halston diffusion teams,” he said. ’’ Japan in 2016. investment in single-brand retail. PAGE 6 Executives are seeking to integrate practices that improve their employees’ working conditions and the environment with accountability and transparency by becoming benefi t PMA Asks for Mediation in Ports Dispute corporations. PAGE 7 come their differences rather PMA also worried that the diver- By KHANH T.L. TRAN than call a mediator. Although the sions shippers have made to East Retailers racked up strong e-commerce sales last week as peak holiday shipping season is Coast ports from the West Coast holiday shipping cutoffs approached, gearing up for the mad LOS ANGELES — After seven over, ports along the West Coast will be permanent. According to a dash on Monday to deliver the last packages before Christmas months of negotiations, the har- remain at below-normal produc- recent industry survey conducted Day.