Black's Picturesque Guide to the English Lakes

Black's Picturesque Guide to the English Lakes

Maiyport THE LIBRARY iihje OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES r^^ Note. The Figures defter the ninnes'denote the. poffer in- the (hdcUBook where the. -places are descrihtd ^Railways "—^— Moods ——— BLACK'S —^ PICTUEESQUE GUIDE TO THR ENGLISH LAKES INCLUDING THE GEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT BY JOHN PHILLIPS, M.A., LL.D., F.R.S., F.G.S. PnnFESSOR OF OEOLOOV IN THE UNIVEHSITY OF OXFORD. OUTLINE VIEWS BY MR. FLINTOFT. ILLUSTRATIONS BY BIRKET FOSTER. FOURTEENTH EDITION. EDINBUEGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 1866. W«aM«MW«aM«MW«" Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh. DA Li554t> PREFACE TO FOUETEENTH EDITION. The new line of railway between Penrith, Keswich and CocJcermouth, having greatly increased the facilities for visiting the Lake District, and especially Derwent- water, additional hotel accommodation is being provided at Keswick and other places by the Cumberland Hotel Company. Besides the new large hotel at Keswick Station, another, named the Queen^s, has been erected on the site of the old Queen^s Head Hotel in the village. A new hotel has also been erected at High Lodore, named tJie Borrowdale Hotel. We may repeat that the Essay on the Geology of the Lake District was revised by the author for last edition (1865), and that on the present edition several alterations have been made throughout the text, as well as on the Map and Clmrts. EstNBUBGH, April 1866. Digitized by tine Internet Archive in 2007 witli funding from IVIicrosOft Corporation littp://www.arcliive.org/details/blackspicturesquOOadamiala ^^'t:b CONTENTS. PAGE Explanation of Engravings, Maps, and Outline Views ix Index to Mountains in Outline Views xi Glossary, General Terms, Names of Places, etc. xiii Notes on Passes .... xxvii Loss of Mr. Butler at the Great Gable . xxviii Hotels—Charges, Conveyances, Boats, etc. xxx-xxxii Introductory Information 1 Kendal 7 Walks and Excursions from Kendal 11 Longsleddale and Hawes Water 16 Windermere ..... 18 Bowness 21 Circuit of Windermere from Bowness 24 Walks and Excursions from Bowness 31 VI CONTENTS. FAOK Ambleside 38 Walks and Excursions from Ambleside .... 41 Loughrigg Fell 43 Troutbeck 43 Rydal, Grasmere, Easdale, and Thirlemere ... 47 Grasmere 56 The Langdale Excursion from Ambleside ... 64 Millbeck to the Summit of the Pikes .... 68 WansfellPike 69 Ambleside to Coniston 71 Coniston Old Man ........ 75 Fumess Abbey Excursion 79 Ulverston 80 Walks and Excursions from Ulverston .... 82 Ulverston to Fumess Abbey 85 ' Broughton . 93 Broughton to Seathwaite and Ambleside by Euad . 94 Ambleside to Keswick 97 Thirlemere 97 Keswick 99 Walks and Excursions from Keswick .... 107 Derwentwater .108 Keswick by the Lake-side to Borrowdale . .112 Continuation ofthis tour by Honister Crag, Buttermere, Crummock, and Lowes Water, returning by the Vale of Lorton or the Vale of Newland . 116 Buttermere 120 . 123 Crummock Water . .... Lowes Water 125 Keswick to Vale of St. John 127 Keswick to Wastwater 131 Wastwater 133 Scawfell 134 Wastdale Head to Buttermere by Passes of Black Sail and ScarfGap 138 Skiddaw 140 Blencathara or Saddleback 143 Ullswater—Penrith to Patterdale 147 CONTENTS. VU PAGE Pooley Bridge 148 Patterdale 154 Patterdale to Ambleside by Kirkstone Pass . 157 Helvellyn 158 High Street 162 Penrith 166 Walks and ExcarBions from Penrith .... 170 Brougham Castle 172 Mayborough . 179 Dacre Castle 181 Eden Hall 185 Lowther Castle 186 Greystoke Castle 193 Excursion to Hawes Water 195 Walk from Lowther Vale to Patterdale . 1 99 Whitehaven 201 Excursions from Whitehaven 204 St. Bees 204 St. Bees to Ennerdale Lake 206 St. Bees—Egremont to Wastwater .... 210 Calder Bridge 211 ITINERAEY. I. Ulverston—Conlston Lake—Ambleside 213 II. Kendal—Bowness—Hawkshead^—Conlston .... 214 III. Eendal to Ambleside 215 IV. Ambleside—Eydal—Grasmere—^Tlurlemere—Keswick . 216 V. Ambleside—Langdale—Eskdale—Egremont—Whitehaven . 21S VI. Whitehaven—Cockermouth—Bassenthwaite Lake—Keswick . 220 VIL Keswick—Borrowdale—Buttermere—Scale Hill—Cockermouth 221 VIII. Keswick—Borrowdale—Wast Water—Egremont . 224 IX Keswick—Threlkeld-Penrith . .225 X. Penrith—Ulleswater—Patterdale—Kirkstone—Ambleside . 226 XI. Penrith—Shap—Kendal 227 Viii CONTENTS. - GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. PAOB General Structure 229 District of the Lowest Slates 235 District' of the Middle Slates 236 District of the Upper Slates 242 Coniston Limestone 242 Ireleth Group 243 Howgill Group 244 Kirby Group 244 The Granite 245 First Great Disturbance of the Sea-Bed 246 Old Bed Strata 249 Calcareo—Carboniferous System of Strata 251 Mountain Limestone—The Thick Lower Limestone—The Upper Limestone—Millstone Grit Group—Coal Formation . 251 Second Great Interval of Disturbance 255 New Red Sandstone 256 Diluvlal and Qlaoio-Diluvial Deposiib . 258 262' Physical Geography . .... Synopsis of Mountains, Lakes, and Watertalls .... 272 Memoranda for Botanists 274 Miscellaneous 278 Notes for Pedestrians 279-285 Index , 287 EXPLAJS^ATION OF ENGEAVINGS, MAP, CHARTS, AND MR FLINTOFT'S OUTLINE VIEWS. ULLSWATER. By T. M. Richardson. Of the two steel engravings which embellish this volume, the first is a view of Ullswater, taken from an elevated part of Gow- barrow Park. The Birk Fell promontory is seen projecting from the east shore to the island called House Holm, beyond which Wall Holm spots the water. Above the latter islet is Bilberry Crag, backed by St. Sunday's Crag. To the right of House Holm, Stybarrow Crag overhangs the margin of the lake. For the names of the other mountain summits, the Tourist is referred to the outline engraving taken from the Matterdale road. In the extreme right, Helvellyn towers aloft. The glens which run up from the lake will be readily recognised. First, on the right of Stybarrow Crag there is Glencoyn ; the extremity of Glenridding is perceived over House Holm, with Glenridding House on the border of the water ; Grisedale commences ou the left of Bilberry Crag, whilst Deepdale is seen over the Birk Fell promontory. DERWENTWATEE. By the late Montagde Stanley, RS.A. The other steel engraving represents the upper section of Derwentwater, and the mountains surrounding the head of that lake. Immediately below the eye is the boat-house on Barrow promontory ; beyond is Lodore Hotel ; and to the left the cele- brated cascade falling . between Shepherd's Crag and Gowder Crag. Castle Crag occupies a conspicuous situation at the head of the lake ; Brund Fell rises behind, and further back still is Glaramara. A little to the right, Scawfell Pike pierces the air. A small portion of St. Herbert's Isle is visible, the rest being concealed by some trees in the foreground. WOOD ENGRAVINGS. The engravings on wood are from the pencil of Mr, Birket Foster. EXPLANATION OF ENGRAVINGS, ETC. MAP. The heights of the priacipal mountains in feet are annexed to then names. Bye-roads are marked thus s=3=a Foot-roads and mountain tracks The line dividing counties The dotted lines beyond the coast line indicate the extent of sand dry at low water. Churches and chapels are marked with a cross . x Waterfalls • . Hj-. CHAKTS. Pagb Windermere, Coniston, Grasmere, and Bydal Lakes 20 Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite Lake 107 Buttermere Lake, Crummock Lake, and Lowes Water 124 Wast Water 133 Ullswater, and Hawes Water .... 162 MR. FLINTOFrS OUTLINE VIEWS OF MOUNTAIN GROUPS. NO Pj .1. Mountains at the head of Windermere, as seen from the j north end of Belle Me > 34 2. Mountains as seen from Bisket How, Bowness . ) 8. Mountains surrounding Grasmere and Rydal Vales, as \ seen from Red Bank , / 58 4. Mountains at the head of Coniston Lake, as seen near l Tent Lodge, on the road from Coniston to Ulverston . / 5. Mountains forming the Skiddaw group at the foot of Der- \ wentwater, as seen from the Hotel at Lodore . > 112 6. Mountains surrounding Derwentwater, seen ftt)m Latrigg ) 7. Mountains on Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, as seen \ from the Knots, near the Victoria Hotel, Buttermere . / 122 8. Mountains on Butteimere and Crummock Lakes, as seen i from the seat in Lanthwaite Wood, Scale Hill . ) . INDEX TO MOUNTAINS, ETC. XI 9. Mountains at the head of Ullswater, as seen from the x road, near Lyidph's Tower Gowbarrow Matterdale j Park > 156 10. Mountains at the head of Ullswater, as seen from the V Slate Quarry at Blowick, near Patterdale 1 1. Mountains at the head of Hawes Water, as seen from J Bum Banks, near the foot f jgy 12. Mountains surrounding Wast Water, as seen from near I Strands Inn (Nether Wastdale), at the foot . ) Index to the Mountains and Places depicted in Mk. Flintoft's Outline Views, with the 'No. op THE View in which they will be found. No. of No. of View. View. Applethwaite Common 1 Castlehead 5,6 Barf . 5 CatbeU . 5,6 Barrow 6 Causey Pike 1 Barrow House 5 Cawdale Moor 10 Binsey 5 Codale Moor 1,2 Birks 9,10 Crincle Crags 2 Blake FeU 8 Deep Dale Park . 9 Bleaherry Crag . 9,10 Derwent Isle 5 Bleaheny Tarn . 7,8 Dod 5 Blea Crag 6 Dolly Waggon Pike 3,10 Bleas Inn . 10 Dove Crags 1,2,9 Blennerhassett . 11 Dovecrags, Hartsop 4 Borrowdale, road to . 7 Eagle Crag 10 Bowfell . 2 Ennerdale and Wastwater Branstree . 11 road to ! 8 Bnind . 6 Fairfield . 2,6,9 Buckbarrow 4 Falcon Crag . 5,6 Buckbarrow Pike , . 12 Floutem . 12 Bank Bum 8 Fordingdale . 11 Buttermere Moss . 7 Forest-side Fell . 3 Calva in Skiddaw jst . For 3 Froswick . 1,2 Carling Elnot 8 Gatecrag . 6 Carlside . 5 Glaramara 2,6 Carsleddam 6 Glen Coin 9,10 Carrs 4 Glenridding Dod . 9,10 Castle Crag 6,11 Glenridding . 10 . 7 . xu INDEX TO MOUNTAINS, ETC. No. of No. of View. View. Gowbarrow Park . 9 Littledale Pike . 5 Grey Crag on Ayes Water 1,2 Littledale Pike, Skiddtiw . 3 Grasmoor 6,8 Long Crag 4 Great End . 2, 6 ,8, 12 Lougside .

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