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When referring to this work, full bibliographic details including the author, title, awarding institution and date of the thesis must be given e.g. AUTHOR (year of submission) "Full thesis title", University of Southampton, name of the University School or Department, PhD Thesis, pagination http://eprints.soton.ac.uk UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHAMPTON FACULTY OF HUMANITIES History Constructing Splendour: The Wardrobe of Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester (1532/3-1588), Consumption and Networks of Production. Two Volumes Volume One: Thesis by Tracey Leigh Wedge Thesis for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy December 2013 Tracey Wedge Constructing Splendour Page – i UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHAMPTON ABSTRACT FACULTY OF HUMANITIES History Doctor of Philosophy CONSTRUCTING SPLENDOUR: THE WARDROBE OF ROBERT DUDLEY, EARL OF LEICESTER (1532/3–1588), CONSUMPTION AND NETWORKS OF PRODUCTION by Tracey Leigh Wedge This thesis examines the networks involved in the production of the wardrobe of Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester (1532/3-1588). It is clearly demonstrated that Leicester’s dress placed him alongside his contemporaries within the nobility. A successful and well functioning wardrobe network was crucial to achieving the required standard of dress. Establishing the identity of the individual members of the network enables the further examination of each person’s role within the network, and in dressing Leicester. Comprised of English masters embedded in their livery company politics and punctuated with foreign masters, the network provides an insight into business practice and social interaction in sixteenth–century London. Page – ii Constructing Splendour Tracey Wedge List of Contents for Volume One: Thesis Page List of Contents for Volume One: Thesis. iii List of Contents for Volume Two: Appendices. iv–vii Author’s declaration. ix Acknowledgements. .x Abbreviations and Definitions. xi Chapter One: Introduction . 1 Part One: Consumption. .45 Chapter Two: A very practical wardrobe or excessive consumption?. 47 Part Two: Production. .81 Chapter Three: A collaboration of supply: Leicester’s wardrobe networks within England. .83 Chapter Four: Leicester’s management of his wardrobe network. .121 Chapter Five: William Whittell, Merchant Taylor, in focus. .153 Chapter Six: Maynard Buckwith, hosier, and the hosier’s role in supplying Leicester’s wardrobe . .189 Chapter Seven: Conclusion . 213 Glossary of Terms. 225 List of References and Bibliography . .229 Tracey Wedge Constructing Splendour Page – iii List of Contents for Volume Two: Appendices Page List of Contents for Volume Two: Appendices. ii-v Note on Transcription . vi Appendix 1. .1 Appendix 1.1: Date distribution of extant bills from wardrobe suppliers found in Longleat House Archive, Dudley Papers, DU Box V.. 2 Appendix 1.2: Figures One to Nine: Portraits of a selection of courtiers who were also members of the Order of the Garter. .3 Appendix 1.3: Figures Ten to Fifteen: Portraits showing Knights of the Order of the Garter in their robes with regalia . 4 Appendix 2. .5 Appendix 2.1: Transcription of The National Archives, E 154/2/39, f. 61, The goods belonging to Lord Robert Dudley that were confiscated at his attainder 1553–1554. .6 Appendix 2.2: Figure Sixteen: Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester (1532/3–1588), circa 1564. 7 Appendix 2.2: Figure Seventeen: Detail of the reverse of the extant field and tilt armour of Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester (1532/3–1588). 7 Appendix 2.3: Quantities of dress elements found in John Dudley, Lord Lisle’s wardrobe inventories 1545–1550. 8 Appendix 2.4: Summary of elements of dress identified in the extant fabric disbursement book for the year 1571–1572 for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester’s Wardrobe.. .10 Appendix 2.5: Total expenditure for Leicester’s personal wardrobe found in household accounts . 11 Appendix 2.6: Summary of the expenses for apparel, with rapiers and daggers, for the Earl of Oxford for 1562-1566.. .12 Appendix 2.7: Additional dress related expenses incurred by Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester shown in household accounts. .13 Appendix 2.8: Spending on jerkins, doublets and hose for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester shown in household accounts. .14 Page – iv Constructing Splendour Tracey Wedge Appendix 2.9: Projected cost for fabric and fashioning of a doublet for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester (circa 1560). 15 Appendix 2.10: Projected cost for fabric and fashioning for a pair of hose for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester (circa 1560). 16 Appendix 2.11: Spending on shirts for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester shown in household accounts. .17 Appendix 2.12: Spending on gowns for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester shown in household accounts. .18 Appendix 2.13: Spending on coats/cloaks for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester shown in household accounts. .19 Appendix 2.14: Spending on skins for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester’s dress shown in household accounts. 20 Appendix 2.15: Spending on goldsmiths’ work for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester’s dress shown in household accounts . 21 Appendix 2.16: Spending on knitted stockings for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester’s household shown in household accounts. 22 Appendix 2.17: Expenditure on specific types of knit stockings for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester shown in household accounts. 23 Appendix 2.18: Spending on footwear for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester and his household shown in household accounts. 26 Appendix 2.19: Spending on gloves for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester and his household shown in household accounts . 27 Appendix 2.20: Expenditure on accessories and waistcoats for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester shown in household accounts. .28 Appendix 2.21: Elements of dress confiscated and sold or given away on the attainder of John Dudley, duke of Northumberland and his son John Dudley, earl of Warwick. A transcription of The National Archives, E 154/2/39. .29 Appendix 3. .42 Appendix 3.1: Provisional list of suppliers of goods and services to the wardrobe of Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester and his household. 43 Appendix 3.2: William Whittell’s receipt for fabrics delivered by Richard Pecock 1566. A transcription of Longleat House Archive, Dudley Papers DU Box V, ff. 262–262v.. .53 Tracey Wedge Constructing Splendour Page – v Appendix 3.3: List of Merchants of Divers Companies trading and occupying silks 1561. A transcription of The National Archives, State Papers 12/20, ff. 135–136. .55 Appendix 3.4: Figure Eighteen: A Map of London and Westminster Highlighting approximate locations of a selection of suppliers to the wardrobe of Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester and his household. 57 Appendix 3.5: Artificers to the Great Wardrobe of Queen Elizabeth 1 showing those who are found in Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester’s wardrobe evidence . 58 Appendix 4. .63 Appendix 4.1: Foreign commodities imported into the Kingdom, 1564. A transcription of The National Archives, State Papers, SP 12/35, ff. 81–84v.. 64 Appendix 5. .70 Appendix 5.1: Types of evidence available for the examination of the lives and business practises of William Whittell and Maynard Buckwith, suppliers to Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester. .71 Appendix 5.2: Figure Nineteen: A Map of London and Westminster showing sites of known relevance to William Whittell . .72 Appendix 5.3: Figure Twenty: A Map of the precinct of St Paul’s Cathedral showing St Paul’s Churchyard. 73 Appendix 5.4: Dates that William Whittell enrolled and made his apprentices free of The Merchant Taylors’ Company, London, on completion of their apprenticeship. 74 Appendix 5.5: Time-line showing projected periods in which apprentices were indentured to William Whittell. .76 Appendix 5.6: Fabric delivered to various recipients in order to make garments for Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester and his household from 7 March 1570(1) until 25 March 1571(2). 77 Appendix 5.7: A Transcription of William Whittell’s bill for one year from 8 March 1561 to 7 March 1562. 104 Appendix 5.8: Dates that William Edney enrolled and made his apprentices free of The Merchant Taylors’ Company, London, on completion of their apprenticeship. 125 Page – vi Constructing Splendour Tracey Wedge Appendix 5.9: A transcription of the names of people assessed in St Gregory Parish in Castle Baynard Ward, recording their second payment towards the subsidy granted to Queen Elizabeth 1, 1576–7. 128 Appendix 5.10: Offices achieved by those elected to Livery in the Merchant Taylors’ Company, London, on 13 March 1569(70) with William Whittell, tailor to Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester. 130 Appendix 5.11: Figure Twenty One: Queen Elizabeth 1, circa 1575.. 131 Appendix 5.12: A transcription of William Whittell’s accounts compiled during his tenure as The Merchant Taylors’ Company warden renter for the west part of the City from the Feast of the Annunciation of Our Lady, 25 March 1584, for one year.. 132 Appendix 6. .140 Appendix 6.1: Number of hosiers and tailors identified in Returns of Strangers of London and the Liberties, 1523 to 1593. 141 Appendix 6.2: Garments supplied to Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester by Maynard Buckwith from 23 April 1565 until 15 February 1565(6). .142 Appendix 6.3: A Transcription of the last will and testament of Maynarde Bockwaye, taylor of Our Lady in the Strand, Middlesex, proved 26 February 1593.