DISCOVER PENSINSULA & SILICON VALLEY RESTAURANT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT MAPS AUGUST 1990 Fukisushi Traditional and Exotic Pleasures By Barbara M. McDonald As the summer temperature soars, imagine yourself in a cool Japanese inn, seated on cushioned tatami. You are brought a lacquered box, wide as our shoulders and full of the various items that comprise a Kyoto-style feast. Partitions hold teriyaki chicken, sashimi, crab salad, boiled shrimp and Japanese pickles. Everything is neatly constrained except the large pieces of tempura that cross the edge of the box. Fukisushi, a restaurant no further than Palo Alto, offers this feeling of being in a luxurious Japanese inn. Entering through its doors, we were soother by the cool air and our hostess’ gentle greeting. She led us to the main dining area, where light pine booths and paneling stood out against walls of royal purple. Napkins the color of green tea ice cream, paper lanterns and crisp prints completed the bright yet simple décor. The menu presented items both familiar and exotic. There were seafood, meat and vegetable appetizers; different kinds of sushi and sashimi; a la carte dishes of teriyaki, broiled fish, tempura, rice and noodles; combination meals; a child’s plate and nabemono, a meal cooked in a pot oat the table. We began with the unusual appetizer of Yamakake. Ground mountain yam partially covered a few slices of fresh raw tuna. The yam formed a paste that heightened the tuna’s smooth texture. We also sampled Anago Oshi Sushi. Oshi sushi is made of fish pressed on top of rice in a wooden box; anago is barbequed sea eel, a luscious, fatty meat like that of no other sea creature. The pressure exerted on the eel and rice resulted in a flavor packed, compressed sushi, still taller than the more familiar nigiri or maki types. From these treats we proceeded with our main courses. Traditional bowls of hot miso soup arrived, and we consumed them as though it were the height of the winter. From a list of dinners including sashimi, termpura, teriyaki, sukiyaki and much more, we chose Omakase, the traditional Kyoto style dinner, and Hamachi Nizakana, yellowtail cooked in a thick soy sauce. Omakase offered a sampling of favorite Japanese foods. We tried a bite of crisp tempura, then a bit of Sunomono, a salad of snow crab with marinated cucumbers. The teriyaki chicken had a tempting barbequed flavor, and contrasting nicely with crisp radishes and pickles. No less than seven to nine items are chosen daily fort this feast which satisfies the biggest appetite. Our other dish of yellowtail was more modest but also excellent. The thick soy sauce coated the fish and the blocks of soft tofu, given them a pleasant, salty taste. We finished with a large scoop of green tea ice cream, the only rice part of our dinner. It was a nice end to an otherwise delicate though copious meal. Happy with our experience in the dining room, we are sure to return for a visit to Fukisushi’s sushi bar, or perhaps to one of the private tatami rooms. .