Introducing Waterford and its Landscape Waterford is the most eastern of the six counties of Munster. It is a maritime county with no part of the county being more then twenty-five miles (40KM) from the sea. Waterford contains a variety of landscapes and scenery within its confines, rarely encountered in such a compact territory. In the east of the country the landscape and scenery is derived from the Caledonian folding which underpins the scenery of Leinster, Connacht, most of Ulster and Scotland. West Waterford is part of the Armorican geological province of hills and valleys running east west. Waterford County is split in two by the spectacular plateau of the Comeragh Mountains. This flat-topped massif reaches a height of over 2,600 feet (790 metres). The Comeragh / Monavullagh range of mountains, together with Knockmealdowns, convey a remoteness which encourages exploration; yet they are immediately accessible both in terms of their height and the time taken to get there from any part of the county. Here, nature is allowed full expression in a marvellously unspoiled environment. The peninsulas each side of the county, capped by Brownstown Head in the east and Helvic Head in the west, have the same breezy, invigorating atmosphere and charming fishing villages, but are quite different in character. The distinctly Celtic and Irish speaking area in the west will introduce the visitor to a unique taste of old Irish culture in a wonderfully wild landscape. The eastern peninsula is more reminiscent of Norman and English influences, with its wood-clad hills and sheltered coves. The coast between the two peninsulas shows yet another aspect of this remarkably beautiful and varied county. The vibrant, modern, fun packed resort of Tramore sits next to Brownstown Head and contracts with the coastal cliffs and quiet coves, which stretch westwards, culminating in the broad and glorious, sweep of Dungarvan Bay, contained by Helvic Head in the west. The City itself lies in the east of the county, just on the seaward side of a gorge on the river Suir. Below the city the three sister rivers the Suir, Nore and Barrow join at the head of the harbour. Given its position in southeastern Ireland, the county has always been a gateway and the human record in Waterford goes back in the mists of pre- history. Our earliest proven ancestors in Ireland arrived after the end of the last ice age and were present in Waterford some 9,000 years ago. These people were Mesolithic in culture, did not practice agriculture, but lived on hunting, gathering and fishing. 1 Introducing Waterford and its Landscape continued It was the arrival of various farming peoples some 5,700 years ago that left a more visible imprint on the countryside. These early farming peoples built impressive burial monuments and in general were more sedentary then their wandering predecessors. 4,500 years ago the first metal using peoples settled in this part of Ireland. They had the knowledge to make bronze (an alloy of copper and tin); they also built megalithic tombs to commemorate their dead. Some 500 years before Christ iron working was introduced into Waterford by people traditionally considered to be Celts. The Celts introduced the Gaelic language and it still survives today as a vernacular in the An Rinn area just west of Dungarvan. It is less than a century since Gaelic was the dominant tongue throughout the county. The Celts were pagan but picked up influences from the Christian Romans in Britain. The Ogham alphabet was one such import, Gaelic using this alphabet, which evolved circa 500 AD. was the first non-Classical language in Europe to develop an alphabet. The Deise tribe of Waterford as the local Celts were known were Christian before the arrival of St. Patrick in 432 AD., having been previously converted by St. Declan whose magnificent monastery remains in ruins overlooking the sea at Ardmore. Celtic paganism and Christianity fused and blended here, to produce a religious culture with a unique flavour. Celtic festivals became saints feast days, holy wells retained their significance only the dedication changed. Germanic and Slavic tribes fell upon the roman provinces of Europe, sacked Rome itself and destroyed the empire and its institutions, learning and culture. From the middle of the ninth century, again and again the churches, monasteries and settlements of the Irish in county Waterford were laid waste. Internal violence was also equally disruptive. The newly arrived Vikings worked out an agreement in time with the Deise dynasty of Waterford, and settled to found the city of Waterford about 850A.D. 2 Introducing Waterford and its Landscape continued The city known as Vedrafjord developed at the confluence of a small river with the Suir at the eastern edge of Deise territory. It was just downstream of a gorge and was splendid natural harbour. The city commanded the estuary of the three sister rivers the Nore, Barrow and Suir, and rapidly developed. The Viking city developed extensive trading links along the fertile river valleys and overseas. The Viking city was triangular in shape facing the waterfront between Reginalds Tower and Clock Tower. Within its confines remains one of the finest historic urban landscapes in these islands. Our Viking heritage perhaps explains our love affair with the sea which is as intense today, as it was eleven centuries ago when long ships cruised the farther reaches of the North Atlantic. The walled Viking city with stood siege on several occasions, but fell to a new invader in 1170 AD., the newcomers were the Anglo- Normans. The Normans arrived in Ireland as mercenaries in the pay of the king of Leinster whose marital affairs had got out of hand. After a three day siege the city fell to the invader. Amidst the smouldering city a marriage was celebrated which has influenced Irish history ever since, Strongbow, the Norman leader, married Aoife, the daughter and heiress to the kingdom of Leinster. This marriage between a subject of the King of England and an Irish princess changed everything. This provided a legal pretext for English interference in Irish life. The walled city of Waterford prospered under the Normans and emerged as the second city of Ireland after Dublin. The city was the chief port of Ireland throughout the later Middle ages. 3 Walking Tours of Waterford Walking Tours of Historic Waterford Commences from Waterford Treasures Museum 11:45am & 1:45pm, and Granville Hotel 12:00 noon & 2:00pm 7 days per week Running from mid-March to mid-October Duration: 1 Hour Voted Best Tour Feature from CIE Tours in 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 & 2005 “With your help, I was able to get a real feel for the city and its fascinating and rich history” - Jean Kennedy Smith, US Ambasssador “…really the best thing to do in Waterford” - Rick Steves “…an excellent view of Waterford in the local, national and global setting” - Dr. William Nolan, University College Dublin Contact: Jack Burchaell Tel: 051-873711 Fax: 051-876123 4 ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, CHURCHES Christ Church Cathedral. Waterford City www.christchurchwaterford.com Christ Church Cathedral has been at the heart of Waterford City since the 10th Century when the Vikings built the first Church on this site. The restored and refurbished cathedral is a magnificent 18th century building designed by John Roberts. The building is steeped in the heritage and history of Waterford with medieval tombs, memorial wall plaques, and beautiful stucco plasterwork ceiling. A regular programme of concerts and recitals takes place at the cathedral through out the year. Gift Shop and Café are available at the Cathedral. The ‘French Church’ founded circa 1240 by Franciscans. King Richard the Second received the submission of Irish Chief’s here in 1395. Later it served as a hospital for a lengthy period. Key available at Reginalds Tower. Holy Trinity Cathedral in Barronstand Street was also designed by John Roberts in 18th Century. ART GALLERIES In recent years there has been a revival of art appreciation in the area, and to cater for this resurgence regular exhibitions are now held in Garter Lane Arts Centre and in private galleries throughout the city and county. Greyfriars Gallery, Greyfriars Street 051-849856 This late Victorian church functions as both a home for some of the municipal collection and as a base for national and international exhibitions. Admission is free. Open: Tuesday to Saturday 11am – 5pm. Waterford Municipal Art at Theatre Royal 051-874402 A large selection of beautiful and extraordinary artworks from the Waterford Municipal Art Collection is now on semi-permanent display in the public areas of the newly restored Theatre Royal. Admission is free. 5 ART GALLERIES CONTINUED Open: Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm, Saturday 12 noon to 5pm. Closed Sundays and Bank Holidays. Garter Lane Art Gallery, O’ Connell St. 051-877153 The gallery houses a year round programme of exhibitions, children’s art and dance classes. The theatre, located at 22a O’ Connell Street, presents a programme of theatre, music, film and dance. Open: All year, Tuesday to Saturday, from 11am (excluding Christmas and New Year). Pauline Bewick Art Exhibition, W.I.T., Walton Building, Cork Road 051-302745 A permanent exhibition of renowned Seven Ages Collection. Admission is free. Open: January to June and September to December, Monday – Thursday 8:30am – 9:30pm. Friday 8:30am – 6pm, Saturday 8:30am – 1pm. July and August, closing times may vary, please phone in advance. Closed 23rd December to 3rd January inclusive. ANCESTRAL TRAIL Visitors of Irish decent who wish to trace their ancestors should write in the first instance to the Consultancy Service provided by the Genealogical Office.