2020 ANNUAL REPORT The DIGITAL VERSION of this Annual Report is available at: TABLE OF CONTENTS About the UIAA 4 Mountain Protection 39 Safety 44 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 6 Medical 48 President’s Report 6 Mountaineering 52 UIAA Executive Board and Management Committee 8 Ice Climbing 56 UIAA Executive Review of 2020 10 Anti-Doping 62 UIAA in the time of Covid-19 13 Youth 64 GLOBAL MOUNTAIN NETWORK 2020 General Assembly Review 15 International Skyrunning Federation 66 UIAA Strategy 18 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award 68 MEMBERSHIP, FINANCE & UIAA OFFICE 20 GLOBAL STATE OF THE MOUNTAINS 69 UIAA Office 21 Finance 24 Africa 70 UIAA Office Report 29 Asia 70 Communication 32 Central and South America 72 UIAA Court 34 Europe 74 Legal Experts Working Group 35 North America 77 Sponsors & Partners 36 Oceania 78 COMMISSIONS & SPECIAL REPORTS 38 COMPLETE LIST OF UIAA DECLARATIONS 80 Cover image: Credit: Pat Morrow. Courtesy of Alpine Club of Canada 3 Introduction About the UIAA HONORARY MEMBERS 1964 Charles-Egmond d’ARCIS (SAC) THE GLOBAL 1968 Edouard WYSS-DUNANT (SAC) 1969 Hans von BOMHARD (DAV) MOUNTAIN NETWORK 1975 Ugo di VALLEPIANA (CAI) 1980 Guido TONELLA (CAI) The International Climbing and Mountaineering 1983 Franz HIESS (VAVOE) Federation (UIAA) was founded in 1932 and has a 1987 Fritz WIESSNER (AAC) global presence on six continents representing 90 member 1990 Jaromir WOLF (CHS) associations and federations in 67 countries. 1992 Sir Edmund HILLARY (NZAC) 1995 Walter BONATTI (CAI) The UIAA, supported by over 150 volunteers, promotes the growth and pro- Dr. Pietro SEGANTINI (SAC) tection of mountaineering and climbing worldwide by: 2000 Robbert LEOPOLD (NKBV) • preserving their spirit and traditions 2001 Dr. Carlo SGANZINI (SAC) Georges MOISSIDIS (EOOA) • advancing safe and ethical mountain practices 2002 William Lowell PUTNAM (AAC) • promoting responsible access, culture and environmental protection PLEDGE 2003 Dr. Fritz MÄRZ (DAV) • supporting youth participation and the Olympic movement The UIAA is the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. As the leading global network, we pro- 2003 Nassos TZARTZANOS (EOOA) mote climbing and mountaineering and advocate for access to climbing areas and mountain ranges. While look- The UIAA fulfils its Mission Statement mainly through the work of its 2007 Jordi PONS SANJINES (FEDME) ing to our future, we value our heritage and care for the mountains, their fragile ecosystems, vulnerable com- Commissions, which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on be- munities and cultures. We serve the best interests of our member federations and of our worldwide community. 2008 Pit SCHUBERT (DAV) half of the international mountaineering community. UIAA Commissions are For the climbers. For the mountains. For the world. 2010 Kazuo SAITO (JMA) comprised of experts in their field. 2012 Ang Tshering SHERPA (NMA) 2013 Claude ECKHARDT (FFCAM) The UIAA operates through the following Commissions: Anti-Doping, Ice theuiaa.org/members 2014 Tamotsu NAKAMURA (JAC) Climbing, Medical, Mountaineering (including Access & Training), Mountain This Annual Report is best viewed in digital format. To view 2016 Reinhold MESSNER (AVS) Protection, Safety and Youth. or download the document please scan the QR code. 2019 Injeong LEE (KAF) Further Reading: theuiaa.org/about 2020 Doug SCOTT (BMC) ©Shutterstock Library 5 EXECUTIVE Summary President’s Report WELCOME Thank you for the opportunity to serve as your provide a solid base, but there are some areas • A governance working group to make UIAA President. where clear interpretation of the Articles’ organ- organisation clear and responsible, to ena- isational structure and assigned responsibilities ble our willing volunteers to make a full and As a new President starts another retires after would help the UIAA in meeting members’ needs meaningful contribution with the time and dedicating eight years to the UIAA. We owe great and expectations. effort they so graciously offer us. thanks to Frits as he took over in a time of contro- • An internal relations working group to focus versy. He led with enthusiasm and a ready smile. As I said in my election speech, I don’t think the on the members and their needs and issues. Frits dedicated good portions of his free time to UIAA needs a lot of change, it just needs some Welcome Message by UIAA business which means something when clarification. So I dedicate myself to providing de- • An external relations working group to you consider his young family, his very busy work fined and allocated responsibilities to best equip improve existing relationships and to create Peter Muir schedule, and the days he missed in the hills. On the UIAA to meet its mission and vision and stra- meaningful links to potential partners or SUMMARY UIAA President your behalf I express my great thanks to Frits and tegic plan. allies. wish him, Rose and their family the very best. • A Commission working group to recom- The central core of UIAA’s existence, the reason UIAA Presidents mend how best to help our Commissions’ I will not belabour Covid; it has been enough of a that our federations come together in interna- 1932–1964 Count Charles projects advance our strategic plan. test on all of us. I marvel every day at the remark- tional union, is mountaineering and climbing in Egmond d’Arcis • And a finance and audit working group to able resilience of all our members in dealing with all their forms. The UIAA’s primary role is to sup- 1965–1968 Edouard Wyss-Dunant make sure that we are responsibly managing Presidents’ messages for Annual Reports the challenge so well. port our member federations so that they may 1968–1972 Albert Eggler and allocating our financial resources. EXECUTIVE better support their members’ enjoyment of their are to be about the year past. But I thought long about what to say to you in this 1973–1976 Jean Juge mountain activities safely and with respect for the There is work to do over the next four years. I’m what can you say about a year like Annual Report because in 2020 many UIAA activ- 1976–1984 Pierre Bossus places and people they encounter. And if that is looking forward to it. I hope you will join me in 2020? It was tough and unfortunately ities were challenged. 1985–1989 Carlo Sganzini true, then environmental and cultural responsibil- these tasks in whatever way your time allows. 1990–1995 Pietro Segantini the problems continue into 2021. But But from challenge comes opportunity, and may- ity, safety (equipment, training and medical ad- And always, we will have some fun along the way. climbers are an optimistic bunch. Even be it is best that I turn my attention to the future vice) and access must be the foundation of UIAA 1995–2004 Ian McNaught-Davis our most basic safety protocol, as the and where I hope to lead the UIAA over the next projects to provide direct resources to the needs Mind yourself out there, 2004–2005 Alan Blackshaw leader ties in, ends with the optimistic four years. You can use our progress on these ide- of our members. 2005-2006 Pierre Humblet (acting) as as a measure of our success. 2007–2011 Mike Mortimer reply from her belayer of “climb on”. And For the foregoing reasons, the Executive Board so we do. The UIAA is a strong organisation based on has organised working groups to focus on these 2011-2012 Jordi Colomer (acting) sound principles and our common passion for areas for recommendations to the Management 2012–2019 Frits Vrijlandt all things “climbing”. The Articles of Association Committee, and from it to the General Assembly. 2019- Peter Muir ©iStock 7 EXECUTIVE Summary UIAA Executive Board and Management Committee As confirmed by the UIAA General Assembly (October, 2020) EXECUTIVE BOARD MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE CONTINENTAL REPRESENTATIVES Martín Lascano González Central & South America Representative UIAA – Managment Committee Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination Dear collegues, The growth of the practice of mountaineering and its universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of technology, the media and social networks show us that today there are no limits, mountains and their natural environment are increasingly within reach. In this constant change, the UIAA must continue to be the engine to strengthen sports I have been President of the MCSA for the last four years and have been on the Managementgrowth, without neglecting the natural environment and respecting the values that mountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style Committee of the UIAA as the Africa Continental Representative for that same time. I have taken an Peter MUIR Zoljargal BANZRAGCH Lode BECKERS Amit CHOWDHURY Mahmood HASHEMI Africa: Greg MOSELEY Asia: andChristine respect, above success PAE or the summit itself. Central and Europe: Anne ARRAN Oceania: Stuart GRAY North America: Phil POWERS active part in the MC meetings and have assisted in the “High Mountain” initiative aimed at dealing (President) (Vice President) (General Secretary) with mountain issues as the emerge. I feel that I have unfinished business that I am veryThese kee valuesn to are what have shaped me as a mountaineer. My passionSouth and commitment America: to India Iran complete. I have built up Republica good network of ofSouth friends Africaand like-minded colleagues both withinthe Koreamountains and is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types of terrain, on national United Kingdom New Zealand United States outside the formal UIAA structures. I am still active in the mountains! expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports manager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation Canada Mongolia Belgium teve ong Indian Mountaineering Iran Mountaineering and Mountain Club of South Africa Korean Alpineand the UIAA Federation itself, in the Safety Commission and the MartinManagement LascanoCommittee.