COPYRIGHTED: NOT AUTHORIZED FOR DISTRIBUTION COPYRIGHTED: NOT AUTHORIZED FOR DISTRIBUTION EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jane O’Shea CREATIVE DIRECTOR Helen Lewis PROJECT EDITOR Simon Davis EDITOR Susan Fleming 7 Introduction ASSISTANT EDITOR Romilly Morgan PROJECT DESIGN & ART DIRECTION Claire Peters DESIGN ASSISTANT Emily Lapworth PART ONE ALL ABOUT PASTA PHOTOGRAPHER Laura Edwards PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Kim Lightbody 10 The History of Pasta FOOD AND PROPS STYLIST Anna Jones 12 What is Pasta? FOOD STYLIST’S ASSISTANT Emily Ezekiel PRODUCTION James Finan, Vincent Smith 14 Types of Pasta 20 Pasta and Sauces First published in 2014 by 24 Pasta and the Italian Kitchen Quadrille Publishing Limited 28 Making Fresh Pasta Pentagon House 52–54 Southwark Road 42 The Pasta Code London SE1 1UN www.quadrille.co.uk Quadrille is an imprint of Hardie Grant PART TWO THE PASTA RECIPES www.hardiegrant.com.au 46 Pasta in Brodo {Pasta in Soups} Text © 2014 Antonio Carluccio Photography © 2014 Laura Edwards 66 Pasta Asciutta {Pasta with Sauces} Design and layout © 2014 Quadrille Publishing Limited 132 Pasta Fresca e Ripiena {Fresh and Filled Pasta} The rights of the author have been asserted. 168 Pasta al Forno {Baked Pasta} All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored 188 Insalate di Pasta e Riciclaggi {Pasta Salads and Leftovers} in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, 206 Pasta come Dolce {Pasta as Dessert} electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing of the publisher. Cataloguing in Publication Data: a catalogue record 218 A List of Pastas for this book is available from the British Library. 221 Index ISBN 978 1 84949 664 3 224 Acknowledgments Printed in China COPYRIGHTED: NOT AUTHORIZED FOR DISTRIBUTION DRIED PASTA MAFALDE SPAGHETTI TAGLIATELLE ANELLINI FARFALLINE PENNE PIZZOCCHERI CAPPELLI PACCHERI long rectangular long rounded strands long ribbon pasta, usually thin rings of dried pasta bow tie or butterfly medium-length tubes or buckwheat tagliatelle, pasta made from durum a tube-shaped pasta 1 ribbons, with one or of fresh or dried pasta, about ⁄4 in wide, generally from Sicily, for brodo shapes with a ridged “quills” cut diagonally at from northern Lombardy wheat semolina flour in a of varying length and both sides ruffled of varying thickness, narrower than fettuccine edge, for brodo both ends shape that reminds one diameters in this case integrale of a well-worn sun hat (wholewheat) COPYRIGHTED: NOT AUTHORIZED FOR DISTRIBUTION {1} {2} { Ravioli/Agnolotti } Filled or stuffed pasta may sound difficult and fiddly RAVIOLI/AGNOLOTTI 1 1 to make, but it’s really quite easy—and it’s so delicious. Cut out a piece of pasta dough, 14 ⁄2 x 9 ⁄2 in (37 x 24 cm). There is absolutely no comparison between what you Cut out another piece of pasta dough, marginally larger 39 can make at home and what you can buy in a store. You than the first. Dot the smaller piece evenly with filling. 3 can experiment with different fillings, for instance, and (If making the traditional ⁄4 in (2 cm) squares, use 3 you can play with sizes. The traditional basic shapes about ∏ tsp filling at ⁄4 in (2 cm) intervals: you should of filled pasta are few, but you can create interest by get about 15.) Moisten around the edges of the filling making them large or small. For instance ravioli are portions with water to aid sealing. Place the larger, 3 MAKING FRESH PASTA usually ⁄4 in (2 cm) square, but you can make raviolini second piece of pasta over the first {1}, pressing down which are smaller, or ravioloni which are larger. (The around the piles of filling to push out any air. Pasta Fresca Ripiena same linguistic rules apply to other shapes: tortelli, tortellini, tortelloni etc.) Always bear in mind that the Alternatively, you could have one large sheet of pasta { Filled Fresh Pasta } amount of filling used should be in good relation to instead of two. Dot the filling along one side, moisten Filled pastas are more typical of the northern parts the size of the pasta. as above, and then fold the other half over. Divide the ravioli into separate pieces using a serrated pastry or of Italy. (In the south, “fillings” would probably be When making filled pastas, you must take care that ravioli wheel {2}. (Or you could just use a raviolatrice, accompanied by lasagne.) In the regions of Emilia- the filling is not too moist, as this tends to soften the as opposite, and see page 26.) Romagna, Lombardy, Piedmont, and Liguria, you pasta, which may burst while cooking. When stacking will find an amazing number of filled pastas, some and storing stuffed pastas, put a little durum wheat the same, some different, some with similar fillings, semolina flour between them to prevent them sticking some with a multitude of shapes, all with names together. And always use water to help the layers of sometimes the same, sometimes different! These pasta to stick to each other; many recipes specify beaten anomalies have existed for a long time, and there egg, but this will cook to form a layer of its own, adding to the thickness of the pasta, which you don’t want. is no getting round them. For instance, agnolotti, the ravioli of Piedmont, can be square, rectangular, round, or half-moon shaped. Tortelli, the filled pasta of Emilia-Romagna, can be square, round, or half-moon shaped. Some tortelli are rectangular... Confused? Yes, we all are, even the Italians… COPYRIGHTED: NOT AUTHORIZED FOR DISTRIBUTION THE PASTA CODE THE SALT tasting. Most Italians like it al dente, still with that to put the drained pasta in the saucepan with the sauce, Cooking 1 1 Add ⁄2 oz (10 g) salt per 4 ⁄2 cups (1 L) of water just light resistance to the tooth; the Neapolitans like their and mixing in the pan before serving out. But remember HOW MUCH PASTA? before it comes to the boil and the pasta is added. pasta with so much resistance that the pasta strands that the pasta mustn’t be swimming in sauce. For small portions, for a starter, Use coarse sea salt if possible. A stock, if previously can spring off the plate (in local dialect, fuienni)! Many 3 1 DRESSING THE PASTA WITH CHEESE allow 1 ⁄4 oz (50 g) dried or 3 ⁄4 oz unseasoned, will need much the same salt quantity as other people like it much softer, but please don’t cook it (90 g) fresh pasta per person. For water, but do be careful as of course you are probably for too long, as it becomes slightly indigestible, giving If necessary, add freshly grated Parmesan, pecorino, or normal portions, for a lunch with salad, say, going to be drinking the stock. you a feeling of weight in your stomach. Caciocavallo cheese. (Aged cheeses are usually better.) 1 1 Put some on top of the pasta and sauce in the serving cook about 2 ⁄2 to 3 oz (70 to 80 g) dried or 3 ⁄2 to 4 oz THE COOKING DRAINING THE PASTA 42 (100 to 110 g) fresh pasta per person. For larger portions— bowl, and have some in a separate bowl for extra 43 1 When the water comes to the boil, add small pasta Have ready a large colander in the sink, into which you helpings. But don’t use cheese with fish pasta dishes, for growing teenagers or athletes—I would use from 3 ⁄2 1 1 shapes all at once, and stir after 20 to 30 seconds. drain the pasta. (Save a few tablespoons of the pasta these might benefit instead from the flavor of a little to 4 oz (100 to 110 g) dried or 4 ⁄2 to 5 ⁄4 oz (130 to 150 g) Cover until the water comes back to the boil. Remove fresh pasta per person. Everything depends, of course, cooking water; this could be useful if your pasta sauce stream of extra virgin olive oil. the lid and cook the pasta for from 2 to 3 minutes for on the quality and shape of the pasta, and on appetite! is too dry or too thick.) Never rinse the pasta, whether fresh homemade and up to 18 to 20 minutes for dried with cold or hot water, as this will wash away too much EATING THE PASTA THE PASTA CODE THE PASTA CODE THE PASTA THE SAUCEPAN nonegg pasta (always follow the directions on the of the starch coating. If you are cooking long pasta, Serve the pasta hot, and if it is long, eat only with a The pan in which you boil the pasta must be large— packet), most Pugliese pastas, and some dried filled you could lift this from the pan using pasta tongs and fork: lift a few strings of pasta from the plate with your broad as well as high—because you will be using a lot of pastas. (Generally speaking, dried pasta takes twice the then return to the pan after most of the water has been fork, make a little space on the side, pin the fork down, water. Ideally the pan should be larger at the base than cooking time allowed for fresh.) If you are cooking drained off. and start to twirl as if using a screwdriver. (Collecting at the top, which helps retain the water temperature. longer strands, put them into the boiling water in a few strings only avoids you winding up with too big You also need a lid: you have to cover the pan briefly bunches, never breaking the strands.