Module:21 239 | P a g e Identifying Hair color and hair shape 21.1 Which shades enhance which skin types & which colours don‘t work Colours not only make life beautiful, they also bring change. This applies especially to hair color. If you want to get a new look, there are many possibilities. However, not every hair shade suits every type of colouring. Spring colour type Skin: The skin is bright and clear, it shimmers golden-yellow or peachy. The spring type has slightly red cheeks and is very often prone to freckles. Eye colour: The color is bright and ranges from light blue to green, often with golden spots in the iris. Hair Colour: The hair is usually blonde, but there are also dark-haired or red-haired spring types. A spring type inherently has a golden glow in the hair. The colours that suit spring types Choose warm colors. Golden blonde, honey blonde, golden brown, copper, golden red and warm bright reds like strawberry blonde or warm, light to medium browns are ideal. The colours that don‘t suit spring types Avoid ash shades Don’t choose dark colours Summer colour type Skin: The skin of the summer type looks bright and delicate and has a bluish to purple skin undertone. Eyes: The eyes are blue, blue-green, blue or gray-green, and brown tones with a light blue, gray, or green glow . Hair Color: By nature, the summer type is blond or brunette with an ashy tone which sometimes seems a little lackluster. The colours that suit summer types Cool colours like ash blonde, ash brown or platinum blonde Red colours should have a bluish undertone, such as bordeaux or violet This colours that don‘t suit summer types Don‘t use warm reds such as mahogany, copper or golden hair shades. Autumn colour type 240 | P a g e Skin: The skin may be very bright but also has a dark bronze shimmer and always has a yellowish-golden undertone. This skin type often has freckles. The autumn skin type is comparatively rare - but is also found in people of African, Asian and Southern European descent. Eyes: The eyes are brown with tones of all shades of green, blue or turquoise. Rarely, clear, bright blue eyes occur in this type. Hair color: It is characterised by light to dark brown hair tinged with red or red hair with shades from copper to mahogany. The colours that suit autumn types: Hair color with warm red and copper tones Also suitable are all warm shades of brown, like auburn and chestnut If the your client has blonde hair, choose a golden blonde You can also choose highlights in blonde, gold or copper red The colours that don‘t suit autumn types: All ash tones Clear blond colour or highlights look unnatural Winter colour type Skin: The skin can be dark to very bright , often with a slightly greenish shimmer through the veins. In most cases, the skin has a cool-bluish undertone. The winter type is a particularly common colour type globally. Many Africans, Asians and Southern Europeans belong to this group. Eye colour: clear eyes in dark brown, gray, ice blue or deep green, clearly defined from the white of the eye. Hair Color: The natural hair color is black to blue-black, dark or brown. Colours that suit winter types Blue-black, mahogany , aubergine or ash shades Colours that don’t suit winter types Yellowish-golden shades A lightening of the hair would lead to an unattractive, yellow-copper tone. Also, do not use highlights as these are usually reddish. 241 | P a g e Colour type determination Find out skin tone by taking the hair back and putting a white towel around neck and shoulders. Look in the mirror: is the clean face yellowish? Then you have a warm complexion. If it looks slightly bluish, it's a cool shade 21.2 Which shape/style of hair suits which face shape The shape of your client’s face and head are unique. Use your observation skills to identify their individual features. You should take account of these factors when you are helping a client choose a hairstyle. Here are some examples of how you can use particular cuts to disguise facial features: Oval : The Ideal of all face shapes in men and women. Both soft and blunt.Oval faces are characterized by the fact that they are slightly wider at the cheekbones than the forehead or chin line. Most hair styles suit this balanced shape of face and it can carry either short or long styles. One good hairstyle for the oval face is a short crop which does not to work so well with other face shapes. Square: The square face has a wide forehead and a pronounced, wide jawline. Narrower faces appear a more stretched shape, wider ones more square. In the latter, longer hair suits, with more volume on top and less on the sides. They can also wear a side pony and light, inward moving waves around the chin to give softer contours. For narrower faces, curly hairstyles can give the face more balance. Triangle: Triangle faces have a narrow forehead and wide chin or a strong jawline. This face shape is well suited for shorter hairstyles with lots of volume. Short, wedge hairstyles with curls and volume on top balance out this face shape Inverted Triangle: This face shape is characterised by a wide forehead and a narrower jaw line and chin. A hairstyle with front or side bangs and blunt-cut hair that ends at or just below the chin suits this face shape. Curls or waves can help the face to look wider at the narrow places of the face. Round : A round face has little or no defined lines, full cheeks and softer "corners" along the jaw line and the forehead. With this face shape, it is important to stretch the face. A stepped section with maximum volume on top and minimum volume on the sides is a great way to make the face appear longer. 242 | P a g e Exercises Exercise 1. Define your own face shape Brush your hair out of your face and fix it with a hair band. Take a close up photo of your face. Mark the outer contours with dots. Connect the dots. What face shape do you have? Exercise 2. Find out your skin tone You can find out your skin tone by taking your hair back and putting a white towel around your neck and shoulders. Your face must be freshly cleansed and free of products. Make sure you are in good daylight. Look in the mirror: Does your face have yellowish tones? Then you have a warm complexion. If looks slightly bluish, you have a cool complexion. Exercise 3. Find your colour type Describe your skin colour. Describe your hair colour Describe your eye colour Compare your results to the colour types and determine which group you fit, are you spring, summer, autum or winter? Exercise 4. Hair shapes For this exercise you can do it anywhere outside where people are passing by. For example sit in a street cafe. Observe the people around you and ask yourself the following questions: Do they wear the hair in styles that suit their face shapes? To how many would you recommend a different style? Exercise 5. When choosing a hair colour for a customer Keep in mind the following when choosing or recommending a hair colour to a customer: You can choose any shade as long as she/he likes it. 243 | P a g e You must suit the shade to the tones of her/his skin/hair/eyes. Exercise 6. Select the correct answers to the following statement. Choose which of the following characteristics are typical of a summer type of skin: Select 2 answers: 244 | P a g e .