Chef’s Book of Formulas, Yields, and Sizes Third Edition ARNO SCHMIDT JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. Chef’s Book of Formulas, Yields, and Sizes Chef’s Book of Formulas, Yields, and Sizes Third Edition ARNO SCHMIDT JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. This book is printed on acid-free paper. \ Copyright © 2003 by Arno Schmidt. All rights reserved Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechani- cal, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, with- out either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clear- ance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750- 8400, fax (978) 750-4470, or on the web at www.copyright.com. 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Title TX820 .S355 2002 641.5’7—dc21 2002028853 Printed in the United States of America 10987654321 Contents Preface vii Acknowledgments ix Credits xi Baby Vegetables 1 Baked Goods 7 Dairy Products 15 Fish, Mollusks, Shellfish, and Seafood 43 Flowers 79 Fruits 85 Groceries 103 Herbs and Spices 161 International Ingredients 169 Meats and Meat Products 199 Recipes 251 Tropical Fruits 275 Vegetables 283 Sizes and Miscellaneous Information 315 Index331 Contents | v Preface The third edition of this book has been instance, one pantry person may trim extensively updated to include new ingredi- strawberries just a little more than others ents and eliminate products no longer in do, and when this happens over a period of demand. The book is organized in broad time, yields can be considerably lower than product groups. Products normally stored those achieved by another person. The in a food storeroom are grouped together. human factor in food handling and prepa- The International Ingredients section has ration is still the most important aspect in been expanded, and tropical fruits are listed achieving maximum yields. separately. Within the sections the listings The Kitchen Yields provided here are are alphabetical. based on experience, rather than simple The food industry has managed to pro- mathematical formulas that may be used duce products according to fairly precise elsewhere. A computer can easily calculate specifications, but achieving accurate yields that 5 lb (2.2 kg) boneless ham will yield in commercial kitchens is vexing. Animals twenty 4-oz (112-g) servings. In reality, are not built to precise specifications like this rarely happens, because there are end machines, but are living creatures with pieces and scraps that cannot be served. varying temperaments, eating habits, and Furthermore, not all 20 servings may be needs for exercise. Therefore, meats can have served during one meal period, and thus varying muscle densities, hidden streaks of the leftovers diminish the yield. fat not visible during grading, and different The information on calories in this moisture contents, all affecting yield. Two book has been well researched. The nutri- pieces of meat with the same specifications tional information provided by food manu- and weighing exactly the same and cooked facturers was compared with the USDA accurately at the same temperature can table of nutritive values, and there were yield different numbers of servings. some discrepancies. Therefore, samples The same is true for vegetables and from different manufacturers were com- fruits. Weather conditions, as well as care pared to arrive at logical and reasonable in harvesting and shipping, can greatly calorie counts. The portion sizes given on influence yields. When the merchandise has labels were often unrealistically small, and reached the foodservice vendor, the care in some instances, sizes, such as ½ cup, taken in storing it, rotating it while in stor- were too vague and had to be verified with age, and issuing it also influences yields. the actual weights. Finally, how the kitchen crew handles the There are two opposite trends in food is also of utmost importance. For today’s foodservice industry: many Preface | vii restaurants serve huge, oversized portions All quantities are listed in pounds and to attract customers; at the same time, con- in metric equivalents. By necessity, metric sumers are encouraged to cut calorie intake quantities are rounded off. Cooking is not and eat smaller servings. The portion sizes an exact science conducted in laboratories; listed in this book are generally accepted rather, it is performed in busy kitchens, serving sizes in fine restaurants. and in the real world few people will weigh ingredients to the last gram or milliliter. viii | Preface Acknowledgments My wife Margaret deserves special thanks. mention a number of my chef colleagues Although she was too busy in her own who directly helped me with this book. career to get directly involved in this edition There are many more from whom I learned of the book, she offered helpful comments and who made valuable comments about and encouragement. Thanks to her, I have yields over the years. I am indebted to all of become much more aware of the beauty them. I must also give credit to the knowl- and intricacies of English. Worldwide travel edgeable salespeople I met, who knew their and my consulting involvement in the hos- products and freely offered advice. Unfor- pitality industry has strengthened my tunately, in our computer-oriented, digital, understanding of ethnic ingredients and the impersonal world, they are a disappearing need to add as many such products as prac- group. They will be sorely missed. Credit tical to this book. It was a challenge to must also be given to Jim Harper, my select the information most likely to be editor, and the helpful people at John Wiley useful to readers. In the Credits section, I & Sons. Acknowledgments | ix Credits Abigail Kirsch Culinary Productions California Iceberg Lettuce Commission Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute California Kiwi Fruit Commission Amazonas Imports, Inc. California Olive Industry American Agri Mushroom Business California Pistachio Commission Enterprises California Prune Board American Dairy Association California Raisin Advisory Board American Lamb Council California Strawberry Advisory Board American Mushroom Institute California Table Grape Commission Anheuser-Busch California Tree Fruit Agreement Anne Rutledge/Raynes C & F Foods, Inc. Apollo Foods, Inc. Carr’s Classic Game Azar Nut Company Casa Di Lisio Products Batter Bake Castle and Cooke Foods Beatrice Hunt Wesson, Inc. Castroville Artichoke People Belgian Endive Marketing Board Cavalo Growers Berliner & Marx, Inc. Caviateria, Inc. Blue Anchor Seafood Certified Angus Beef Blue Diamond Almond Growers Bols’t Indian Condiments Chefs: Bruce Church, Inc. Joseph Amendola, Pastry Bud of California Anthony Bartolotta Bush Agricultural Resources Patricia Carlin Bush Brothers and Company Rene Dionne Butler, Kevin, Hilton Hotels Corporation John Doherty California Apricot Advisory Board Lennart Elias California Artichoke Advisory Board Kurt Erman California Avocado Commission Frank Friederich California Fresh Market Tomato Advisory John Halligan Board Demetrios Haralambatos Credits | xi Jean Koegler Eden Foods, Inc. Lutz Lewerenz Eden Soy, Inc. George Metropolis Egg Nutrition Center Jean Mizutani Enfant Riant Escargots Jean Nicolas Fink Baking Company Jim Padams Fishery Products, Inc. Tom Lo Presto FLAV-R-PAC Frozen Foods Herman Reiner Florida Avocado Administrative Committee Leslie Revsin Florida Celery Exchange Willi Ritz, Pastry Florida Department of Citrus Arno Schmidt, “The Illustrated Florida Lime and Avocado Committee Encyclopedia of Food” CD Florida Tomato Exchange Arno Schmidt, Notes from the Chef’s Food and Wines from France Desk,