DESIGNER How does Mellerio’s heritage inspire [created by combining] materials and its contemporary creations? cuts. When I create a collection, I play, I am often asked if our heritage is a and that’s what guides me. Nothing scares KEEPING burden. But on the contrary, I find it me.… I like emeralds, and I tend to use tremendously inspiring and exciting. them a lot. But to define more generally IT IN THE There is a [trend to] return to heritage, how I conceive collections, I draw jewels and it is one of our strengths, because we that I would like to wear. FAMILY have never forgotten it. Also, if I were to lack inspiration, I [would] only have to What’s your latest collection about? go down to the archives to draw ideas. My The latest collection revolves around he history of Mellerio dits Meller dates latest collections are nourished by this diamonds. It was a real stylistic exercise for back to 1515, when a family of peddlers story. That said, having studied drawing me, with this desire to accentuate this stone Tof small items left Cravegia, Italy, for and with a background in interior design, that I usually work with to complement France. In 1613, the French regent, Marie de I always wanted to respect the codes of the colorful gemstones. Jewels from this Medici, allowed the family to trade within houses with which I worked. It is the same collection are really joyful. The lapis lazuli the French kingdom without paying taxes. dynamic that guides me here: to learn, brings a lot to the creations, and the scarf This right was a major milestone and then to note the recurring elements and necklace is truly a masterpiece. The next lasted until the end of Louis XVI’s reign in rework them without distorting them. collection will be another artistic journey! 1792; Queen Marie Antoinette reportedly bought a Mellerio bracelet in 1780. From left: The Would you say some of your A Mellerio peacock aigrette sold in It was in 1815 that the family opened its making of a ring; creations are now iconic? June during the Maharajas & Mughal shop on Rue de la Paix, and it continued Ciottoli necklace This is a difficult question because my Magnificence sale at Christie’s. How do to establish its reputation during the 19th from the new and 20th centuries. Since 1955, the house Isola dei Pescatori main goal is to perpetuate the spirit of the you feel about the antique jewels that has created the annual Ballon d’Or soccer collection; drawing house. But I remember a client who told come on the art market? of a diamond front me after seeing my first collection that I We were delighted to see this brooch during award, and since 1981, the trophies of the bodice from 1908; had preserved the Mellerio spirit. So I told the various exhibitions and recently at this French Open tennis tournament. In 2005, ring from the myself that I had met the challenge and it incredible sale in New York. This kind of it debuted its proprietary Mellerio cut. Graphic collection. was the best compliment that [I] could be event helps raise the popularity of the old To celebrate the 400th anniversary of given. The Mellerio spirit is the freedom to Mellerio jewels. Besides, creations from our the privileges it received from the regent, create and propose. Our jewelry remains house are rare on the market. The peacock the house presented the Medici collar timeless [and] elegant and does not go out is the house’s emblematic animal, the one necklace in 2013. The diamond of style. This is perhaps our specialty, and that we create regularly. Long before Art and ruby piece that is the house’s iconic character. Nouveau. So we were precursors. The first took 4,500 brooch was bought by a Spanish duchess in hours to make. Do you use historic in-house 1867, and I’m pretty sure it still exists. One LINKS IN A CHAIN techniques? day, it may resurface. Of course, even if many [of those] mellerio.fr ◼ The CEO of high jeweler Mellerio dits Meller a very long-term vision, since the house is techniques are found in other houses. But not intended to be sold and must remain here we try to sustain the use of enamel, talks about her label’s fve-century heritage in our family. The next generation has for example, to which I am very attached. four boys, one of whom, Côme, already I regularly try to incorporate ornamental and its latest oferings. By Marie Chabrol works with us. stones [often used for engraving or Also, while profitability is still essential, sculpture], and of course, we have the we do not face the same pressure as young Mellerio cut, a high-balanced cut mixing rench high-jewelry house brands or houses, whose shareholders the oval, pear and cushion, with 57 facets. Mellerio dits Meller is one of expect a quick return on their We have our own in-house workshop, the world’s oldest jewelers, with investments. where almost all our production is roots in the 16th century. Laure- Add to this the fact that it is a very handmade. This is also what distinguishes FIsabelle Mellerio, the company’s CEO and elegant house with a unique soul. It is us from other high-end jewelry brands: creative director, reflects on that past and therefore necessary to pay homage to We offer a curated service, from our shares her own inspirations. all the Mellerio [family], but also to the collections [and] bespoke creations, to employees, to the workshop managers repairing antique jewels. We are jewelers, Laure-Isabelle How do you manage Mellerio and and to the [skilled] craftsmen who know and it’s our business model. Diamond and Mellerio, CEO the legacy of one of the oldest jewelry how to retain our customers. Leading lapis lazuli and creative houses in the world? this house requires a persistent kindness What about your style? Onda ring director of from the Isola Headquarters of Mellerio on Paris’s Mellerio The Mellerio house is a family home, and to maintain the loyalty that we have I like color and size. I am particularly dei Pescatori Rue de la Paix since 1815. dits Meller. this is a very important point. So we have enjoyed for so long. attached to the contrasts and effects collection. 48 AUGUST 2019 DIAMONDS.NET DIAMONDS.NET AUGUST 2019 49.