ROYAL TOKAJI OVERVIEW TOKAJI’S ROYAL CONNECTION AND RENAISSANCE The first Tokaji aszú wine was created in the 1600s perhaps by accident — a harvest delayed by threat of enemy invasion. In 1700, Tokaj became the first European region to have its vineyards classified — its uniquely varied terroirs and climates rated “primae classis, secundae classis, tertius classis,” or “first growth, second growth, third growth,” by Prince Rakoczi II of Transylvania. This classification system is still used in Hungary today. Quality production ended with the Communist Party takeover of Hungarian winemaking. Aszú grapes were used for mass production in factories, with vineyard distinctions lost in giant tanks. Tokaj’s renaissance began after the collapse of communism with the establishment of Royal Tokaji in 1990 by well- known author Hugh Johnson and a small group of investors, who were inspired to restore and preserve Hungary’s precious wine legacy. THE TOKAJ REGION Situated along the southern slopes of the Zemplén Mountains, Tokaj is characterized by late springs and short growing seasons. The average temperatures are generally cool, with long, sunny summers and dry autumns. Tokaj’s soil is largely clay or loess with a volcanic substratum. The meeting of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers in Tokaj creates a mist similar to that of the fog in Sauternes. The mist encourages “botrytis cinerea,” or “noble rot,” which dries and shrivels the grapes that comprise Tokaji wines, and concentrates the sugars. Grapes that are infected with botrytis are commonly referred to by the Hungarian term aszú. GRAPE VARIETIES By law, only white grape varieties are allowed to be planted in Tokaj. There are three primary grapes grown here and used by Royal Tokaji: Furmint (FOOR-mint): 70 percent of the region’s plantings; high levels of tartaric acid, thin skin susceptible to botrytis Hárslevelú (HARSH-leh-veh-LOO): 20 percent of the plantings; less susceptible to botrytis, but rich in sugar and aromas; “Hárslevelü” translates to “linden leaf ” Muscat de Lunel: 10 percent of the plantings; the most difficult grape to grow, but an important blending grape PEDIGREE VINEYARDS Royal Tokaji owns a unique combination of first- and second-growth vineyards that have always been privately owned, including one of the two great first growths: Mézes Mály. At one time, first-growth vineyards Betsek and Szt. Tamás were owned by Prince Rakoczi I. His vineyards were sold in the late 1660s to save the prince, who was involved in a conspiracy that would have otherwise cost him his life. His son, Prince Rakoczi II, was able to buy back the prized land in the 1700s. Three centuries later, these vineyards continue to be highly valued. THE WINERY Royal Tokaji’s winery is located on the main square in the village of Mád, about 240 kilometers (150 miles) northeast of Budapest in the Tokaj wine region. In honor of ROYAL TOKAJI OVERVIEW Royal Tokaji’s 20th anniversary, the winery was renovated entirely. Designed by the leading Hungarian architect Csaba Bodonyi, it accommodates more than 1,000 oak barrels for aging and has a stainless-steel tank capacity of 2,700 hectoliters (71,325 gallons). It has already been acclaimed as the most important in the Tokaji region due to its earth-friendly contributions, which range from a green roof to solar panels. THE WINES Royal Tokaji produces several exceptional wines, including: Furmint: 100 percent Furmint; a dry, white wine Mád Cuvée: Late harvest Red Label: Second growth, 5 puttonyos Betsek (bet-CHEK): Single vineyard, first growth, 6 puttonyos Szt. Tamás (SENT tahm-ash): Single vineyard, first growth, 6 puttonyos Mézes Mály (MAIZE-esh my): Single vineyard, great first growth, 6 puttonyos Essencia VINIFICATION The methods and traditions of producing Tokaji wines have changed little since the 17th century when aszú berries were individually harvested from bunches and collected in 20-liter (55-pound) wooden tubs called puttonyos or hods. The number of puttonyos added to each barrel of base wine made from grapes unaffected by botrytis determined the puttonyos level of the wine. On a scale of one to six, the more puttonyos the sweeter, richer and rarer the Tokaji. Today, a wine’s puttonyos level is determined by the amount of residual sugar in the finished wine, thus the key factor in the production of Tokaji aszú wines is the proportion of aszú berries to base wine. The berries are crushed once they arrive at the winery, and the syrupy aszú paste is added to the current vintage’s base wine. After the mixture is stirred repeatedly for two-plus days to extract the natural sugars and aromas of the paste, it is added to gönci (140-liter or 37-gallon barrels) and stored in Royal Tokaji’s 13th-century cellars where a second fermentation takes place — a result of the addition of the paste and one that can take several months to years, due to cold cellar temperatures and the high sugar content of the wine. Legally, Tokaji aszú wines must be aged for a minimum of three years prior to release; Royal Tokaji’s wines are usually aged for a longer period of time, including some time in old oak — to truly express the terroir of each vineyard and allow the elegance of the fruit to shine through. SERVING SUGGESTIONS Royal Tokaji’s aszú wines are wonderful on their own as an apéritif or digestif, with cigars and petits fours. Given their bright acidity, these wines also pair well with a wide variety of foods, including foie gras, fruit tarts, chocolate desserts and a variety of cheeses. Serve slightly chilled at 12 to 15 degrees Celsius (54 to 59 degrees Fahrenheit) in a small port glass or a glass of similar size. ROYAL TOKAJI VINIFICATION The methods and traditions of producing Tokaji wines have changed little since the 17th century when aszú berries — grapes that are infected with “botrytis cinerea,” or “noble rot,” which dries and shrivels the grapes and concentrates the sugars — were individually harvested from bunches and collected in 20-liter (55-pound) wooden tubs called puttonyos or hods. The number of puttonyos added to each barrel of base wine made from grapes unaffected by botrytis determined the puttonyos level of the wine. On a scale of one to six, the more puttonyos the sweeter, richer and rarer the Tokaji. The process remains much the same today, minus the clumsy, heavy hods. TOKAJI ASZÚ WINES The berries are crushed once they arrive at the winery, and the syrupy aszú paste is added to the current vintage’s base wine which has already been fermented in stainless steel for approximately three weeks. After the mixture is stirred repeatedly for two or more days to extract the natural sugars and aromas of the paste, it is added to gönci (140-liter or 37-gallon barrels, named after the village of Gönc, known for its barrel-making) and stored in Royal Tokaji’s 13th-century cellars, originally dug out in defense against Turkish invaders. Here, along the moss- and mold-covered walls, is where a second fermentation takes place — a result of the addition of the aszú paste and one that can take several months to several years, due to the cold cellar temperatures and the high sugar content of the wine. Legally, Tokaji aszú wines must be aged for a minimum of three years prior to release; Royal Tokaji’s wines are usually aged for a longer period of time, including some time in old oak — to truly express the terroir of each vineyard and allow the elegance of the fruit to shine through. ESSENCIA Essencia is produced using only the free-run juice that slowly oozes from aszú berries that are waiting to be crushed — no base wine is added. This juice that accumulates at the bottom of a vat by the gentle pressure of the grapes’ own weight is sticky and pours like rich honey. Because sugar levels can be as high as 85 percent, the juice ferments extremely slowly; it took the 2007 Essencia seven years in Royal Tokaji’s cellars to reach only 1.65 percent alcohol. MEASURING SWEETNESS Today, a wine’s puttonyos level is determined by the amount of residual sugar in the finished wine, thus the key factor in the production of Tokaji aszú wines is the proportion of aszú berries to base wine. Below is a chart outlining the sugar levels and percentage of aszú in Tokaji aszú wines. Minimum Residual Sugar Levels Percentage of Aszú Wine in Blends Tokaji Aszú Wines: 5 puttonyos: 60% 3 puttonyos: 60g/L 6 puttonyos: 70% 4 puttonyos: 90g/L 5 puttonyos: 120g/L 6 puttonyos: 150g/L Essencia: 450g/L Royal Tokaji Historical Review of Aszú Harvests 5Puttonyos GoldLabel Birsalmás Nyulászó Betsek TamásSzt. Mézes Mály Essencia 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 = successful Aszú harvest Tokaj was the first European region to have its vineyards classified (before France); classification by Prince Rakoczi II in the 1700s. Royal Tokaji’s first-growth single-vineyards (and great first growth, Mézes Mály) have always been privately owned. The meeting of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers in Tokaj creates a mist similar to the fog in Sauternes. The mist encourages the development “botrytis cinerea,” which may lead to “noble rot” under the right conditions. Noble rot dries the grapes and concentrates the sugars. Grapes that are infected with noble rot are referred to by the Hungarian term aszú. While botrytis is quite common in Tokaj, true aszú harvests are not an annual event • After botrytis infects the grapes, aszú berry development requires warm, dry conditions for noble rot to succeed.