© Lonely Planet Publications 9 You can buy, download and print individual chapters from this guidebook. Foreword Peter Hillary Get Tramping in NZ chapters> There is something extraordinary about New Zealand’s primeval land- scape. The place is a South Pacific remnant of Gondwanaland, and the best way to see its brooding forests and cloud fringed peaks is to walk it. Whether it is bush bashing in the Waitakeres, strolling Abel Tasman’s gorgeous coastline or hunkering down from the weather on the Milford Track – spectacular is the word that defines this country. You know, I am able to think better when I walk…and I love to walk and talk with a friend. New Zealand is filled with wonderful places to walk, talk and think. (By the way, this is ‘antipodean multitasking.’ We can move our lips and limbs at the same time.) I learned ‘antipodean multitasking’ at an early age from my father, Sir Peter Hillary has climbed Edmund Hillary. When I was 10 years old he took me to climb Mt Fog Everest, skied to the in the incredible wilderness of the Matuki Valley, deep in the Southern South Pole, and funds Alps. We slept outside in the golden tussock grass and headed for the schools and hospitals in summit in the early morning light. I followed Dad’s bucket-sized foot- Nepal. He is the father of prints up a snow slope, feeling the sublime confidence of a young boy’s four energetic children faith in his father. Such experiences led to a lifetime of forays into the and he loves tramping in New Zealand mountains to climb and explore. Both the Mt Cook and Mt New Zealand Aspiring areas became the perfect training ground for expeditions to the ends of the earth. I have been to the North and South Poles, and to the summit of Mt Everest twice, and yet I crave returning to the great walks and landscapes of New Zealand. It’s simple really. New Zealand is one of the world’s most beautiful countries, with superb coastlines and beaches, mountains, rivers and forests. When it comes to outdoor recreation this country is the best. Go on, get out there. Go tramping! © Lonely Planet Publications 12 TABLE OF TRAMPS www.lonelyplanet.com The tramps Duration Difficulty Best time Far North Rangitoto Island Loop 4-5 hours easy year-round Waitakere Ranges Loop 4 hours moderate-demanding year-round Cape Reinga Walkway 3 days easy year-round Great Barrier Forest 3 days moderate Oct-May Kauaeranga Kauri Trail 2 days easy-moderate Oct-May Central North Island Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk 4 days easy-moderate Oct-May Whakatane–Waikare River Loop 5 days moderate-demanding Nov-Mar Whirinaki Track 2 days easy Oct-May Tongariro Northern Circuit 4 days moderate Dec-Mar Urchin-Umukarikari Circuit 2 days moderate Nov-Apr Southern North Island Mt Taranaki High-Level Circuit 4 days moderate Dec-Mar Mt Taranaki Low-Level Circuit 5 days moderate Dec-Mar Pouakai Track 2 days moderate Oct-May Matemateaonga Track 4 days easy-moderate Oct-May Rangiwahia & Deadmans Loop 3 days moderate-demanding Jan & Feb Mt Holdsworth Circuit 3 days moderate-demanding Dec-Mar Totara Flats Track 3 days moderate Oct-Apr Marlborough Region Queen Charlotte Track 4 days moderate Oct-May Nydia Track 2 days easy Oct-May Pelorus Track 3 days moderate Oct-Apr Nelson Region Abel Tasman Coast Track 5 days easy year-round Heaphy Track 5 days easy Oct-May Wangapeka Track 5 days moderate Nov-Apr Leslie-Karamea Track 7 days moderate-demanding Nov-Apr Travers-Sabine Circuit 6 days moderate-demanding Feb & Mar D’Urville Valley Track 6 days demanding Feb-Mar www.lonelyplanet.com TABLE OF TRAMPS 13 Transport Summary Page boat Climb a volcano and tramp through lava fields, enjoying one of the best views of central Auckland 41 private Explore a wilderness-like setting only one hour’s drive from Auckland 44 bus Tramp spectacular beaches and the rugged coast around New Zealand’s northern tip 47 bus Wander a rugged island with historic kauri dams and hot springs 53 shuttle service Step back in time with logging and gold-mining relics on the forested hills of the Coromandel Peninsula 59 shuttle service, boat Enjoy beaches, swimming and fishing on this Great Walk 70 private Follow a remote river route with plenty of fords and fishing opportunities 73 shuttle service Explore a lush forest with caves and an impressive gorge 79 bus Tramp past volcanoes and through a spectacular thermal area on this Great Walk 85 bus View the Tongariro volcanoes from a neighbouring forest park 92 shuttle service Tramp around a landmark volcano for spectacular views 102 shuttle service Beat the elements and explore the bush while circuiting a stunning volcano 106 shuttle service Enjoy Egmont National Park and Mt Taranaki in two days 108 bus, boat Wander along an isolated wilderness track, ending with a thrilling jetboat ride on the Whanganui River 111 private Explore lightly used ridges and valleys in Ruahine Forest Park 117 private Stay in scenic huts and admire views from an alpine ridge in Tararua Forest Park 121 private Follow pleasant river valleys through the Tararua Range 125 boat, bus Treat yourself to beautiful coastal scenery and interesting accommodation options 132 boat, shuttle service Cross two saddles and explore a sheltered shoreline 138 shuttle service Tussle with trout or take a dip in the deep green pools of the Pelorus River 140 boat, bus Explore a series of beautiful beaches and bays on this Great Walk 148 bus Follow in historic footsteps and enjoy a stunning variety of scenery on this Great Walk 166 bus Climb two 1000m saddles and wander beech-forested valleys 172 bus Combine great trout fishing with the dramatic scenery of an earthquake-torn valley 177 bus, boat Explore grassy river flats, beech forests and two alpine saddles 186 shuttle service, boat Climb a challenging alpine pass, tempered by the beauty of Blue Lake 190 14 TABLE OF TRAMPS www.lonelyplanet.com The tramps Duration Difficulty Best time Canterbury Banks Peninsula Track 4 days easy-moderate Oct-Apr Mt Somers Track 2 days moderate Nov-Mar St James Walkway 5 days easy-moderate Nov-Apr Kaikoura Coast Track 3 days easy-moderate Oct-Apr Arthur’s Pass National Park Avalanche Peak 6-8 hours moderate Nov-Mar Goat Pass Track 2 days moderate Nov-Mar Waimakariri–Harman Pass Route 4 days demanding Nov-Mar Harper Pass 5 days moderate Nov-Mar Cass–Lagoon Saddles Track 2 days moderate Nov-Feb West Coast Inland Pack Track 2 days moderate Dec-Mar Croesus Track 2 days moderate Nov-Mar Welcome Flat 3 days easy-moderate Oct-Apr Mueller Hut 2 days demanding Dec-Mar Mt Aspiring National Park Routeburn Track 3 days moderate Nov-Apr Greenstone Track 3 days easy Oct-May Caples Track 2 days moderate-demanding Nov-Apr Mavora Walkway 3 days easy Oct-May Rees-Dart Track 4 days moderate Nov-Apr Cascade Saddle Route 4 days very demanding Dec-Mar Wilkin–Young Valleys Circuit 3 days moderate-demanding Dec-Mar Fiordland National Park Milford Track 4 days easy Oct-Apr Hollyford Track 5 days easy-moderate Oct-May Kepler Track 4 days moderate Oct-Apr Dusky Track 4 days very demanding Nov-Apr Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track 3 days moderate Oct-Apr Stewart Island (Rakiura) Rakiura Track 3 days moderate Nov-Apr Northwest Circuit 10 days demanding Nov-Apr © Lonely Planet Publications www.lonelyplanet.com TABLE OF TRAMPS 15 Transport Summary Page bus Take in wonderful seascapes and wildlife on this private track 196 shuttle service Tramp the subalpine areas around Mt Somers, soaking in refreshing pools at night 200 bus Cross two low passes while enjoying fine mountain scenery 205 bus Enjoy following the Pacific coast by day and staying at farms by night 211 bus, train Climb high above Arthur’s Pass on the South Island’s most scenic day tramp 220 bus Spend a night high above the bush-line in Goat Pass Hut 224 bus Soak in a hot spring as reward for a tough crossing of two alpine passes 226 bus, train Follow a historic gold-mining route over a low pass 230 bus, train Admire spectacular views from two alpine saddles 234 bus Admire an unusual karst landscape and stay in one of NZ’s largest rock bivvies 241 bus, helicopter Retrace history on a subalpine track loaded with mining relics 245 bus Follow the Karangarua River to NZ’s most spectacular hot springs 251 bus Climb steeply to spend a night among the spectacular peaks of Aoraki/Mt Cook 254 National Park bus Enjoy one of NZ’s best alpine crossings on this Great Walk 261 bus, boat Discover the easy tramping and legendary fishing of the Greenstone valley 265 boat Ascend to a high pass on a lightly used track 269 bus, boat, plane Savour the solitude, impressive alpine scenery and trout fishing of the Mavora valley 271 bus, jetboat Cross an alpine pass dividing two splendid valleys 274 bus Admire the fine views after a difficult climb to one of NZ’s most scenic saddles 278 bus, boat, plane Savour superb views and scenic beech-forested valleys 281 bus, boat, plane Experience lush rainforests, an alpine pass and waterfalls along the ‘finest walk in the world’ 292 bus, jetboat, plane Tramp to the rugged coast and wildlife of Martins Bay 298 bus, boat Spend a full day surrounded by alpine beauty on this Great Walk 302 boat, plane, helicopter Tramp into the wilderness and isolation of remote Dusky Sound 306 bus Explore a spectacular coast and intriguing logging relics 311 boat, plane Follow sheltered shores and beautiful beaches on this Great Walk 322 boat, plane Slog through mud to wild Mason Bay, admiring beaches and birdlife as you go 326 © Lonely Planet Publications 16 The Authors JIM DUFRESNE Jim first came to New Zealand 20 years ago in search of high peaks and wild places.