CIDER GONE WILD! Exploring Craft Cider Brian Trout Society of Barley Engineers Wednesday, May 2nd, 2018 BrianFerments.com [email protected] • HomeBrewing Since Fall 2009 • Winning Since Spring 2010 • BJCP - Beer, Mead, and Cider • CCP, Sensory Trained, Professional Judge, USACM Member • Certified Cicerone® • Cider, Fermentation, & Pairing Educator • Founder/President – “SD Craft Cider” (FaceBook Group) • San DiFuego • Cider Making Workshops, Blending, Pairing • Available for Hire Apple Juice + Yeast + YAN = Cider CRAP CIDER – Buyer Beware Concentrates or Sugar Water Malic Acid Water Flavorings & Colorings Read Labels and Do Not Buy Bargain Cider Craft Cider • Wine Grapes:Wine::Cider Apples:Cider • “Simple” – Orchard to Glass • Gluten Free, Connects, Food Friendly • Acids, Tannins, Sweet to Bone-Dry, Still to Sparkling, Light & Delicate to Big & Bold. • Apples and Cider Makers are Unique. – Apple Variety, Terrior, Process My Apples Are Not Your Apples. My Cider Is Not Your Cider. Talking and Walking Cider The Apple – Fruit of Desire • Portable Sweetness. Sweet = Calorie Dense • Apple Cave Art 35,000 - 8,000 B.C E. Asian and Europe. • Carbonized Apple remains Anatolia 6,500 B.C.E and Switzerland and Italy lake settlement 2,000 – 1,600 B.C.E. • Origin of the Apple Tien Shan Mountains (NW China) and Khazakhstan. Alma-Ata = “Father of Apples” • Various Religions. Philip of Macedon, Alexander the Great, Julius Cesar were all fans. • Romans, Greeks, Syrians – Horticultural Knowledge. • Ova Ad Malum = Egg To Apple Q: HOW MANY APPLE VARIETIES IN NORTH AMERICA? 16,468 Apple Varieties in North America Dan Bussey (Apple Historian and Orchard Manager) Apples – Pips & Grafting • Pips – Genetic Uniqueness • Grafting, Bud, Scion, Whip • Getting the apple you want to grow • Bees – Apple Blossom Honey What Makes A Cider Apple? • Apples we usually eat are dessert apples. Not used much in great ciders. • Cider Apples are not usually good for eating. AKA “Spitters”. - Tannins and Acids. • The fermented hard cider tastes a great deal different from the fresh pressed cider or must. (Does wine taste like fresh grapes? Do we snack on wine grapes?) • Blending by Cider Makers. Seasons and Year. • Many of the Vintage Varieties of cider apples are difficult to find. Types Of Apples DESSERT / TABLE Sweet and have some tartness to be sprightly and not cloying on the palate. Fuji Red Delicious Pink Lady Gala Types Of Apples CULINARY / COOKING Usually higher in acid and/or less sugar than dessert apples. Flesh will cook down into a soft, pulpy puree. Applesauce, Pies, ApfelStrudel, etc. Cameo Granny Smith Rome Beauty Northern Spy Types Of Apples SWEET Low Tannin and Low Acid Egremont Russet Lord Lambourne Orleans Reinette Sweet Coppin Types Of Apples BITTERSWEET High Tannin and Low Acid Bulmers Norman Dabinett Medailledor Yarlington Mill Types Of Apples SHARP Low Tannin and High Acid Bramley Crimson King Frederick Grenadier Types Of Apples BITTERSHARP High Tannin and High Acid Broxwood Foxwhelp Skyrmes Stokes Red Kingston Black Types Of Apples PINK FLESHED APPLES! Geneva, Redfield, Watermelon, Niedzwetzkyana, Pink Pearmain CIDER APPLES Making Cider Harvest Making Cider Sweating Making Cider Milling Making Cider Milling Making Cider Pressing Cider - New Rules 1. BJCP – Sucks for Cider. 2. GLINTCAP – Uses BJCP format and changes yearly. Great resource. 3. Wild and Native Yeast Fermented Cider is Not New. It is how cider was made. 4. Barrel Aged and Fermented Cider is Not New. 5. Cider is the alcoholic beverage. Sweet Cider is the juice / must. Hard Cider was an American thing. Cider Terminology Any Questions? Cultured Yeast – YAN (Nutrients Used). Sterilized Must. Wine or Beer Yeast. Quick Fermentation. Predictable. Driven By Production. This can be Flabby and 2-Dimensional. Cultured Yeast is a Thoroughbred. Wild Fermentation – Low YAN or No YAN needed. They are FREE! Complexity. Unique character. Slow Fermentation. MLF and Keeving (Cuvage) higher success rate. Stages and Layers. Allows Location, Fruit, and Cider Making Shine. Wild Terrior. Blet vs. Rot? Rolling the dice. Guiding not Forcing. Cider Making – Wild Yeast What is this sanitization that you speak of? Embrace the Environment? Observe / Controlled Funk? Wild Yeast – Various Aromas and Flavors. They are built to survive in the environment. Brettanomyces – Various Aromas and Flavors. The tortoise. Pineapple, Apricots, Leather, Barnyard, Goaty. Funky. Lactobacillus – Sauerkraut, Kimchi, Pickles, Yogurt, Kombucha, Lacto-Ferm Hot Sauce. Bright tangy tart. Good for the gut. Acetobacter – Vinegary. Apple Cider Vinegar. Acceptable in Sidra Style. Oxygen present. Apiculate Yeasts – Starting Yeasts (Kloeckera Apiculata or Hanseniaspora Valbyensis). Less Crytolerant and Alcohol Tolerant (2-4%). Low SO2 Tolerance. Found On and In Fruit. Fast start to protect the must. Sacchraromyces Group – Various Aromas and Flavors. The tortoise. Pineapple, Apricots, Leather, Barnyard, Goaty. Funky. (Bayanus). More Crytolerant. Most Fermenation. Maturation Yeasts – Brett. (Dekkera), Pichia, Candida, Others. Oxygen present can get white filmy yeasts and get Acetobacter. Spain – Asturias & Basque Region Spain • Basque counry of Spain – Similar Climate of Pacific NW • The oldest Cider Region • Fermented in Chestnut Foeders • Drops/Grounders in the mix. • Cider Region: Monastic Gardens on Abbey Grounds and Islamic Moors. • Family Funk: Acetic. Brett. • Food Culture. Long Pours. Escanciadors. Siderias. • TXOTX (CHO-ch) GLINTCAP 2018 • Natural Cider is intended for ciders from Asturias, the Basque Country, and other regions in which similar apple varieties and production techniques are used to achieve a typical Spanish cider profile. In Asturias these ciders are known as sidra natural. In the Basque Country these ciders are known as sagardo naturala. • Modern styles of cider produced in Northern Spain (such as Nueva Expresión or Espumosa) that have lower levels of volatile acidity may be better entered in Modern Cider or Heritage Cider. • Introduction Traditional Spanish cider is made primarily with sharp and semi-sharp local apple varieties. Each pressing takes 2-3 days to complete, and the tradition is to allow wild yeasts to ferment the cider, rather than using cultured yeasts. After pressing, the juice is pumped into chestnut barrels or stainless steel tanks. Traditional Spanish cider requires both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation (MLF) to reach completeness. • The traditional skill of pouring of cider in Asturias is unique. The bottle is held in one hand with the arm reaching as high as possible. The glass is held, at an angle, in the other hand with the arm stretched down as low as possible. The cider is carefully poured so that a thin stream of liquid drops from a height into the tip of the glass. Only a small amount of cider is poured, just enough to consume in a mouthful or two. The aim is to release carbon dioxide in the cider and to volatilize part of the acetic acid. GLINTCAP 2018 • Aroma Ciders from Asturias typically have fresh citric and floral aromas. Ciders from the Basque Country may also exhibit light spice, leather, and smoke aroma. Aged cheese and butter aromas may also be encountered, but any excess is undesirable. • Appearance These ciders are unfiltered, so cloudiness is normal. Shaking the bottle before opening and pouring is recommended. The color for Asturian ciders should be straw yellow. The color for Basque ciders tends toward pale to deep gold. Amber or darker colors are considered faults. • Professional tasting competitions in Asturias require specific visual evaluations after the traditional pouring of the ciders. • Espalme – Foam must disappear quickly from the top of the cider. • Aguante – Refers to the carbon dioxide bubbles in cider. After traditional pouring, small bubbles disappear slowly, allowing just enough time to drink the cider in perfect condition. • Pegue – Refers to the thin film adhering to the sides of the glass after the cider has been drunk. It is viewed favorably. • Mouthfeel Medium-bodied mouthfeel. No sweetness expected. Carbonation is light to moderate, depending on the height of the pour. Taste profile is acidic/tangy, citric/lemony, with little to no astringency or bitterness. Pleasant scratchy and tickly throat due to acetic acid is expected (often more intense in Basque ciders). GLINTCAP 2018 • Overall Impression Dry, fresh with lively acidity. • Varieties Regona, Raxao, Limón Montés, Verdialona, De la Riega (Asturias). San Juan, Errezil, Gezamin, Moko (Basque Country). • Vital Statistics ABV: 5 – 6.5%; VA (Volatile Acidity): 1-2 g/L Asturias – Sidra Natural Sidra Natural Sidra Is a Big Thing! Sidra Natural France – Normandy & Brittany France – Normandy & Brittany • Normandy 12th Century Cider got popular (Beer Shortage). • 14th Century as popular as wine. • 1371 as much cider as wine being sold. Shipped to Paris to meet need. • 1902 647 million gallons “Commercially” • Masceration (Cuvage), Defecation, Keeving. Nutrient Deprived. Flying Lees Chapeau Brun • Minerality, High Carbonation. Sparking Carbonation Rounded Body. France – Normandy & Brittany France – Normandy & Brittany Etienne Dupont Cidre Bouche • Region: Lower Normandy with a loamy soil on shale richness. • Variety: Local Cider Variety • Alcohol content: 4.5% vol • Elaboration: • traditional method • controlled fermentation vats. Stabilization is achieved by racking. Perry obtained is clear and no deposit. Bottled spring. France – Normandy & Brittany Keeving. Nutrient Depravation that needs. Calcium