22 23 Donald Buchanan, The Lake of Menteith*, panoramic photograph Scotland. Forever learn so much about our forebears from with each passing year. & everywhere. by Teresa Fritschi When I returned to the United States Inspiration and reverence from my first trip to Scotland more than three years ago, I told friends, ‘mark my That which inspires an overwhelming words, Scotland is about to become hot- sense of awe creates reverence. It is a ter than any time since (Queen) Victoria virtue often forgotten in our busy sat on the throne’. They looked at me as demanding lives but remains part of our if I was insane but three years hence human condition. Reverence begins, everywhere you look these days there is according to philosopher Paul Woodruff, Antique Scottish silver, Cairngorm brooch* from Greyfriars Antiques, Adrian Gould photography a reference to Scotland. From St. with a deep understanding of human Speaking with New London’s Teresa Andrew’s Day in November through limitations and grows in a capacity to be Burns Night in January and onto April for Fritschi regarding her love of Scotland is a in awe of whatever we believe is outside Tartan Week (based upon an Act of rich sensory experience. As owner/curator our control. Somewhere in the world, Congress acknowledging the vast contri- even if it’s in our own backyard, each of of the Edinburgh-based e-commerce butions of Scots to American society) us holds a place special.There is no place initiative, thistleandbroom.com, clearly with each the frenzy of fiddles, pipes and she has a great deal to speak about. a sea of tartan has full license to celebrate While listening, one can almost smell around the world. Fashion magazines abound with pictorials featuring the peat and hints of Lavender air Scottish, French and American designers revealing a lush moment both past and – everyone, it seems, has jumped on the present that we felt only her unique bandwagon. National Geographic con- voice should carry. Subsequently, sistently features photo journalism and Teresa was approached to offer INK editorial designed to expand the aware- an essay about her inspiration, her ness of the general public of this ‘small, Scotland. What follows are her words. perfectly formed country’ which we still Corie Liath*, bronze vessel, limited edition of 12 sculpture and Donald Buchanan, Carrick Castle at Loch Goil, panoramic photograph Animal Guardian Jars* by Charlotte Cadzow photograph by Daniel Kavanagh 24 25 Donald Buchanan, Glasgow’s Charing Cross, panoramic photograph on Earth which has ever consistently moment when my palms began to per- facing page: Slate backed, c. 1880 Montrose Agate and silver brooch* from Greyfriars Antiques, inspired me to stop, take a deep breath spire, my heart raced, my throat caught, photograph by Hamish Hill my eyes filled up with tears, and I thought and sigh out loud in wonder - as below: Antique Sweetheart cushion* from Greyfriars Antiques, Scotland. It is in the context of that won- that I was having a heart attack. I won- photograph by Hamish Hill der that my love affair began. dered, (reasonably so) under the circum- right: Thistle & Broom’s exclusive St. Magnus Bracelet* by stances, if I had put off coming to Hamilton & Inches, photograph by T. Fritschi To properly frame my relationship with Scotland because I was destined to die Scotland you must understand that I put there! There was no physical explanation off visiting for 17 years because at some as the tea was my own decaf. A short time visceral level I knew that in doing so, my later a lovely septuagenarian man life would fundamentally change forever. approached and enquired if I am “luvin’ I had traipsed alone across Hungary, Scotlan’ verre much ahze we’ bin ‘arye Austria, Germany and France each mem- bout three minoots lass”, my sincere apologies to every Scotsman or woman orable for the experiences large and small reading this passage. It started like this, but I held Scotland at a distance, for safe- Being called ‘home’ physically knowing before my brain could ty. You must also embrace the concept of My first trip is memorable for a thousand comprehend. Everything about Scotland serendipity, that there is no such thing as reasons but most critically for what hap- is like this; places familiar without basis. a coincidence. I have always believed in pened as I sat on The Flying Scotsman As it turns out I had every reason to intu- the Presbyterian concept of preordina- (named after the Scottish Olympian Eric it keeping Scotland at a distance. I have tion; that our lives, and our greatest life’s Liddell) bound for Edinburgh from recently discovered that for years work, are structured by the Divine. We London. With bucolic landscapes slip- Harvard, Duke and University College can attempt to deny or avoid it but ping passed the window in the late London have been conducting research inevitably whatever it is will seek us out November drizzle, I took pictures of over Scotland’s ‘draw’. It’s something I and make it impossible for us to ignore Norman towns, verdant fields and sheep don’t fully understand, but it somehow what we are ‘supposed to do’. - lots of them. There was a palpable binds a race memory component to the 26 when taken in combination with her many festivals and extraordinary cuisine (don’t YouYou poeticpoetic soulsoul scoff, this isn’t English food - one of the VoicesVoices ofof thethe Ancients,Ancients, rounded rounded RrrsRrrs Top 50 Restaurants in the world is on the remote and beautiful Isle of Skye. Oyster moors,moors, bogs, bogs, mountains, mountains, mist mist connoisseurs the world over are well searingsearing mymy beingbeing withwith eacheach breathbreath familiar with Loch Fyne); the Scotland you long to find will make herself known to landscapelandscape echoesechoes throughthrough youryour musicmusic played,played, you. Edinburgh now eclipses Paris, Berlin spokenspoken andand sungsung byby youryour bardsbards and London with her museums entirely Scotland, dark mistress, worthy of their newly claimed destination Scotland, dark mistress, status. Scotland’s many ruined (and per- wrapwrap yourselfyourself aroundaround mymy loverlover andand meme tonight.tonight. fectly intact) castles, 6,000 lochs, her Munro’s (any mountain over 3000 feet) 2727 NovemberNovember 20022002 Teresa Fritschi and traditional fashions, as noted above, continue to inspire the latest ‘trends’ in couture. I am not a golfer, but I do enjoy unique geological formation (high iron fine single malt whisky. I don’t hunt, but content) and subsequent strong magnetic I love the romance of standing in a foot energy of the country especially in the and a half of water as salmon escape fly Western Highlands. Some 40 million peo- lure flicked by better casting wrists than ple on a global basis proudly proclaim my own. their Scottish heritage. With ancient Celts Orkney Chairs* by Scapa Crafts Jackie Miller having wandered as far as Persia and Wester-Ross with her ancient forested Connecticut to the Highlands northern Africa its likely that an even mountains looming against a sky filled higher percentage of the worlds’ popula- with snowflakes as angels feathers fall or Eilean Donan Castle, photograph by T. Fritschi How does a small town girl from Western tion has Scots blood. along hairpin roads on the Isle of Harris New York, who has lived in Old Eilean Donan with lichen covered granite boulders only Greenwich, near the Litchfield hills, and Like so many other ‘contemporary’ castles and ruins, rises from some ancient settle- The dichotomy of Scotland to surmount a rise in the road to face the now in New London become committed ment and/or fortification. Eilean Donan, the Island of (Saint) Donan, a contemporary of St. pure white sand beach and azure waters of body and soul to Scotland? It has as much Columba beheaded with 52 of his companions when a raiding party set upon them on 17 April Luskentyre. Scotland is a land of contrasts What I feel for Scotland is the sense of to do with my inability to find a brooch of 618, whose well still runs with fresh water while the castle itself is set atop a tiny islet sur- and infinite beauty. hopelessness one ‘enjoys’in loving fiercely. Scottish gold as a combination of circum- rounded by the three deep blue-green salt water lochs of Alsh, Duich and Long. For nearly 800 Each day Scotland courses through my stances that still astounds even my best years a strong hold and keep have been sited here at the edge of the Kyle of Lochalsh on the Of course, Scotland is much more than veins demanding my capitulation and friends. What spurred me onto to Mainland with a view toward the Isle of Skye. Her tumultuous past, innumerable guardians simply physically awe-inspiring. Her utter surrender, she is unrelenting in driv- embrace my life’s work was, in a single and secrets lie as securely beneath her foundations as the sculptured foot marking her precur- ancient standing stones and civilizations ing me ever deeper into an inescapable word, inequity. sor Iron Age Pictish settlement still stands opposite. Beautifully sited with the Kintail and unrequited love that few will ever blend seamlessly and dynamically with Mountains providing a sweeping backdrop, Eilean Donan rightfully has starred in movies contemporary society. History oozes up understand. Is it madness to love a place Following my first trip in November of (Golden Eye,The Highlander, Loch Ness) and graces shortbread tins, CD covers and post cards from beneath your feet regardless of rather than a person to such an extent? To 2002 I became obsessed with all encom- alike, it is (almost) universally agreed to be the most photographed castle in Scotland.