©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Shànghǎi POPULATION: 19 MILLION / TELEPHONE CODE: 021 Why Go? Sights . .165 You can’t see the Great Wall from space, but you’d have Tours . .182 a job missing Shànghǎi (上海). One of the country’s most Festivals & Events . .183 massive and vibrant cities, Shànghǎi is heading places that Sleeping . .183 the rest of the Middle Kingdom can only fantasise about. Somehow typifying modern China while being unlike any- Eating . .189 where else in the land, Shànghǎi is real China, but perhaps Drinking . .193 just not the real China you had in mind. Entertainment . .195 This is a city of action, not ideas. You won’t spot many Shopping . .197 Buddhist monks contemplating the dharma, or wild-haired Getting There & Away . .201 poets handing out fl yers, but skyscrapers will form before your eyes. Shànghǎi is best seen as an epilogue to your Chi- na experience: submit to its debutante charms after you’ve had your fi ll of dusty imperial palaces and bumpy 10-hour Best Places to Eat bus rides. From nonstop shopping to skyscraper-hopping to » Huanghe Rd (p 190 ) bullet-fast Maglev trains and glamorous cocktails – this is » B ǎoluó Jiǔlóu (p 191 ) the future that China has long been waiting for. » Lost Heaven (p 190 ) » Fu 1039 (p 192 ) » Vegetarian Life Style When to Go (p 192 ) Shànghǎi °C/°F Te m p Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 12/300 Best Places to 30/86 Stay 20/68 10/50 8/200 » Urbn (p 188 ) 0/32 -10/14 » Astor House Hotel (p 184 ) 4/100 -20/-4 » Park Hyatt (p 188 ) -30/-22 -40/-40 0 » Quintet (p 186 ) J FDNOSAJJMAM » Le Tour Traveler’s Rest Youth Hostel (p 188 ) February Visit April & May October The Yùyuán Gardens March is chilly optimal season: for the Lantern and 1 May is neither too hot Festival, two chaos, but nor too rainy. weeks after Chi- otherwise spring nese New Year. is ideal. 6 Shànghǎi d 162 R i a Highlights t u 1 Stroll down the H Bund promenade 6 (p 165 ) or raise a glass to the Pǔdōng lights 2 Contemplate the masterpieces of iRd h s traditional Chinese g in art in the Shànghǎi Shanghai L 6 66West Train Museum (p 166 ) Station 3 Admire the Ϟ⍋㽓☿䔺キ d R curvature of the earth £# o Jiao a tang Rd g from atop the World g n Financial Center a G (p 175 ) 666 PǓTUÓ 4 Treat your taste buds: from fusion cuisine to Sichuanese Zhenping Rd W 䬛ാ䏃キ #¡ d un ℺ᅕ䏃 peppercorns, R ing Rd i French Concession e b W restaurants (p 191 ) g #¡ u n Caoyang Rd n e in have you covered g ᳍ᴼ䏃キ R Zh d SHÀNGH 5 Delve into the Ji jiang Rd old alleyways and nsha #¡Jinshajiang Rd East China 䞥≭∳䏃キ quirky boutiques at Normal Tiánzǐfáng (p 173 ) University Changfeng Ǎ 6 Put on your best Park Jiangsu Rd I Zhongshan 66 Park ∳㢣䏃キ shoes and step out Songhong Rd Weining Rd #¡ into the Shànghǎi #¡⎲㱍䏃 #¡ Beixinjing #¡ ࿕ᅕ䏃キ Loushanguan Rd night (p 195 ) #¡ Zhongshan Park ࣫ᮄ⋒ Tian ࿘ቅ݇䏃キ B sh Ёቅ݀ುキ an R 7 Bargain-hunt for e d #¡ i WESTERN h West F faux antiques and Tiansh o SHÀNGHǍI #¡¤ a an Rd ҭ䳲䏃 n Yan'an Rd n g y (CHÁNGNÍNG) u tailor-made clothes in R X ᓊᅝ㽓䏃 d ianxia Rd 66Hóngqiáo 666R the Old Town (p 198 ) Donghua Shuicheng Rd d Airport J Yili Rd University C i 8 Test your a ∈ජ䏃キ #¡ W Zhongsh n Longxi Rd #¡ Ӟ⡕䏃キ boundaries with the h Hongqiao Rd e 啭⑾䏃キ R #¡ 㱍ḹ䏃 latest in Chinese art d #¡ GǓBĚI #¡ Jiaotong d Songyuan Rd at M50 (p 175 ) R a University ao WYan'anRdGuyang ᅟು䏃キ n Rd SOUTH gqi Rd 9 Escape the 666Hon 666 SHÀNGHǍI big city for the #¡ (XÚJIĀHUÌ) canal-town vistas of Shanghai Zoo H #¡ o Zhūjiājiǎo (p 204 ) Ϟ⍋ࡼ⠽ುキ n Yishan Rd Longbai g #¡ x ᅰቅ䏃キ Xincun u 啭ᶣᮄᴥキ R #¡ $݀䏃 d J Guilin Rd Caoxi Rd i ‚ n ⓩ⑾䏃キ h MÍNHÁNG Ḗᵫ䏃 #¡ To Zhūjiājiǎo u 666i 6666 (30km) R d #¡ Caohejing Development Zone A #¡ #¡ 2 Hechuan Rd ⓩ⊇⋒ᓔথऎ ⓩᅱ䏃 0 Caobao Rd ড়Ꮁ䏃 d Expre o R Caoba ⓩᅱ䏃キ #¡ Xingzhong Rd #æQībǎo ssway #¡ ᯳Ё䏃 66 Qibao Shànghǎi South Train #£ Station e# 02km 01miles To Dino ‚Beach (1km) #¡ Wujiaochang Fudan Wenshui Rd Ѩ㾦എキ University Huangxing Park163 ≊∈䏃 #¡ 咘݈݀ುキ #¡ Dabaishu 1 ໻ᶣᷥ 1 #¡ #¡ Guoquan Rd Quyang ೑ᴗ䏃キ #¡Middle Yanji Rd 666Park Tongji66 ᓊঢ়Ё䏃 Shanghai University #¡ gshi Rd YÁNGPǓ Lin Circus World Chifeng Rd#¡ ৠ⌢໻ᄺキ 䌸ዄ䏃 Quyang Rd #¡Ϟ⍋偀៣ජキ #¡ ᳆䰇䏃キ Huangxing Rd Hongkou Football #¡ 咘݈䏃 Stadium #¡ Siping Rd #¡ ಯᑇ䏃キ Jiangpu Rd 㱍ষ䎇⧗എキ ∳⌺䏃キ Yanchang Rd #¡ Zhabei #¡ Youdian Xincun Anshan 666Park66666䚂⬉ᮄᴥキ 6#¡ 66 ᓊ䭓䏃 #¡ Xincun Hutai North East Baoxing Rd 䵡ቅᮄᴥキ Xizang Rd ϰᅱ݈䏃 #¡ Hailun Rd Rd 㽓㮣࣫䏃キ #¡ Linping Rd ⍋Ӻ䏃キ #¡ Dongbaoxing Rd #¡ #¡ Јᑇ䏃キ #¡ Zhongtan Rd Ёቅ࣫䏃 #¡ ϰᅱ݈䏃キ Dalian Rd Yángpǔ Ё╁䏃キ NORTH 6#¡ 6North Zhongshan Rd66SHÀNGHǍI66໻䖲䏃キ6 Bridge #¡ (HÓNGKǑU) See Shànghǎi Station #¡ Map (p184) Zhongxing Rd #¡North Sichuan Rd Yangshupu Rd ᴼᷥ⌺䏃 #8 Ё݈䏃キ d ಯᎱ࣫䏃キ M50 R Shànghǎi International iver ing pǔ R Hain #fCruise Terminal Huáng Changshou Rd See The Bund & People's Square See Pǔdōng New Area Map (p182) Pudong Avenue #¡ 䭓ᇓ䏃キ Map (p170) 00 #¡ Xinzha Rd#¡ 00 World Financial ⌺ϰ໻䘧キ Minsheng Rd 6666The Bund66#001 6 6 00 Center ⇥⫳䏃キ Changping Rd ᮄ䯌䏃キ 00 #¡ #¡ 00 #3 PǓDŌNG SHÀNGH ᯠᑇ䏃キ 00 NEW AREA See West Nanjing Rd & Shànghǎi Museum #¡Yuanshen Stadium Jìng’ān Map (p180) #2 Shangcheng Rd #¡ #¡ ⑤⏅ԧ㚆Ёᖗキ Century JÌNG'ĀN ଚජ䏃キ Rd Science & Old Town #7 ngyang Avenue Zha Technology Ϫ㑾໻䘧キ Museum Ǎ #¡ I 666666 OLD #¡ Pudian Rd #¡ ⾥ᡔ佚キ n'an Rd #¡ TOWN Xiaonanmen ⌺⬉䏃キ Shànghǎi W Ya Laoximen #â # 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These were stagger- Jiāng), Shànghǎi (the name means ‘by the ing achievements; but when the decadence sea’) has long been an ideal trading port. went, so did the splendour. Shànghǎi be- However, although it supported as many came a colourless factory town and politi- as 50,000 residents by the late 17th centu- cal hotbed, and was the power base of the ry, it wasn’t until after the British opened infamous Gang of Four during the Cultural their concession here in 1842 that modern Revolution. Shànghǎi – in some ways the most infl u- Shànghǎi’s long malaise came to an ential city in 20th-century China – really abrupt end in 1990, with the announcement came into being. of plans to develop Pǔdōng, on the eastern The British presence in Shànghǎi was side of the Huángpǔ River. Lùjiāzuǐ, the soon followed by the French and Ameri- area facing the Bund on the Pǔdōng side of cans, and by 1853 Shànghǎi had overtaken the Huángpǔ, is a dazzlingly modern high- all other Chinese ports. Built on the trade rise counterpoint to the austere, old-world of opium, silk and tea, the city also lured structures on the Bund. the world’s great houses of fi nance, which Shànghǎi’s burgeoning economy, its erected grand palaces of plenty. Shànghǎi leadership and its intrinsic self-confi dence also became a byword for exploitation and have put it miles ahead of other cities in vice; its countless opium dens, gambling China. But perhaps alarmed by Shànghǎi’s joints and brothels managed by gangs economic supremacy, Běijīng has made at- were at the heart of Shànghǎi life. Guard- tempts to curb the city’s infl uence. In March ing it all were the American, French and 2007, Xi Jinping was chosen as the new Italian marines, British Tommies and Jap- Shànghǎi Communist Party secretary after SHÀNGH anese bluejackets. Chen Liangyu was dismissed from his post After Chiang Kaishek’s coup against the on corruption charges the previous year. communists in 1927, the Kuomintang co- The choice of Shaanxi (Shǎnxī)–born Xi Jin- operated with the foreign police and the ping is seen by many as a victory for Presi- Ǎ I Shànghǎi gangs, and with Chinese and dent Hu Jintao in replacing members of the foreign factory owners, to suppress labour Shànghǎi clique of ex-president Jiang Zemin unrest. Exploited in workhouse conditions, with offi cials loyal to his tenure. crippled by hunger and poverty, sold into Despite the fanfare and its modernity, slavery, excluded from the high life and the Shànghǎi is only nominally an interna- parks created by the foreigners, the poor of tional city; it cannot compare with the Shànghǎi had a voracious appetite for radi- eff ortless cosmopolitanism of cities such cal opinion.