LA CONNER: TIME TRAVELS ON THE SWINOMISH CHANNEL This tiny Skagit County town is uniquely located in the middle of a narrow channel and blends maritime history with charming modern activities PHOTOS BY JOHN LUND BY JOHN LUND & MARIANNE VAN TOOR OLLOWING A STOPOVER AT ANACORTES and on our way to southern Puget Sound, we cross Padilla Bay to the entrance of narrow Swinomish Channel. The 11-mile journey through the channel makes us feel like we are headed into a bygone era, a time when boat travel was the only way to get to the historic town of La Conner. Boating writers often describe the Swinomish Channel (pronounced SWIN-o-mish), separating the mainland from Fidalgo Island, as a “short cut” or the “chicken route” to La Conner—rather than going around Fidalgo Island and through Deception Pass—as if navigating this slim waterway is a piece of cake. FToday, siltation coupled with a lack of funds for dredging means boaters must pay full attention when navigating the channel, but the rewards of exploring the Swinomish far out- weigh the risks. Rainbow Bridge in the background frames a scenic view from a sunny La Conner patio. Along the way, boaters are treated to sweeping views of Skagit Valley farmlands with the Cascade mountains as a backdrop. The greatest reward comes when you pull into La Conner—a postcard-perfect historic town that pre-dates highways, trucks and automobiles; a time when Puget Sound’s Mosquito Fleet provided the only NAVIGATING THE connection to the outside world. La Conner is the oldest community in Skagit Coun- SWINOMISH CHANNEL ty, and with more than 160 19th-century buildings recorded on the National Registry of Historic Places and only 900 permanent residents, it is listed among The Swinomish Channel con- Red RigHT Returning If you Washington’s “very small towns.” La Conner is also nects Padilla Bay in the north to think of the Channel as a river— well known for its annual spring Skagit Valley Tulip Skagit Bay in the south and sep- one that has two mouths or Festival when the surrounding region is turned into a arates Fidalgo Island from the entrances—and keep in mind brilliant kaleidoscope of red, yellow, and pink tulips, mainland. The channel is narrow that the Red-Right-Returning rule something that stirs the emotions of our Dutch-born but well marked. Drying tidal applies at both ends, you will have crewmate Marianne. flats surround the north and no problems. The red markers We never sail past La Conner without stopping for south entrances. Until recently, switch to green (and vice versa) lunch, at least. regular dredging kept the chan- near the channel’s halfway point. nel from silting up. PORT OF SKAGIT—LA CONNER MARINA Full-service La Conner According to the U.S. Coast NAVigation Notes—From Marina is operated by the Port of Skagit County and Guard’s Local Notice to Marin- NortH to SoutH When has a total of 2,400 linear feet of guest moorage on F ers (Week 34, 2011), “Numerous entering the channel from the float at the south basin and G float at the north basin, soundings of shoaling in the north, keep the northernmost available on a first-come, first-served basis. During Swinomish Channel have been red marker to starboard. When summer months, marina personnel will accommodate reported. The primary locations you see the swinging railroad visiting boaters in vacated slips. Staff monitors VHF for the shoaling have been from bridge and highway bridges Channel 66A, or the Swinomish Channel South ahead, keep to centre channel you can call 360- Entrance, north to the vicinity of as this is a shoal area. Buoy 29 466-3118. THIS POStcARD- La Conner, Wash. Some depths marks the most troublesome G float visitors have been reported as two feet stretch. South of the bridges, need to check with PERFEct HISTORIC below the charted depths. Mari- note the ‘Pipeline Area’ sign the marina office ners are advised to use caution denoting a shallow area. to pick up a key TOWN PRE-DATES when transiting this waterway Alongside La Conner, about card for access to HIGHWAYS, TRUCKS due to the reported shoaling.” halfway, a shoal extends from the the restrooms and NOAA Charts 18421 and west shore. Stay on the east side showers. AND AUTOMOBILES 18427 will assist in navigating of the channel until past La Con- B o t h m a r i n a the waterway. ner. South of La Conner at Shelter basins have 30 Bay, a shoal extends from the amp shore power, west shore. Stay on the east water and Broad- side of the channel until past band Xpress wireless internet. Restrooms, showers, Shelter Bay. laundry, pay phones, and recycling are nearby. The The channel’s south marina office is at the north basin. Adjacent to the mar- entrance, west of Goat Island, ina is La Conner Maritime Service, which offers com- is a shoal area. Stay centre plete boatyard service and repair and can handle haul channel by aligning the outs to 85 tons. range markers on Whidbey Fuel and diesel are available at La Conner Landing, Island and Dugualla Bay. between south and north basins. The store sells tackle, Stay north of the red buoys. bait, ice, beer and wine, marine items and some grocer- Watch for shoaling at Buoy 1. ies. Propane is sold next door at the Boater’s Discount When docking, head into Center. The south basin is also home to the Swinomish the current. Staff on the Yacht Club, which offers reciprocal privileges for other fuel dock maintain a “Dock club members (www.swinomishyachtclub.org). from this Direction” sign as a reminder. Checking current LA CONNER OF YESTERDAY The town’s maritime history direction and strength is just begins in the mid 1860s when a trading post and post as important when casting office was established on the west side of the channel off. Remember to put power where the Swinomish Indian Reservation is today. A on before letting go. If the few years later the post office was relocated to a build- current is strong, wait until ing on the east shore originally intended to house slack. The port is understand- the intercontinental telegraph. The line was to run ing and will delay check-out from San Francisco up the coast to Alaska and across times during strong flood the Aleutians to Russia and Europe. The project was and ebb tides. abandoned in 1867. 30 MAR 2012 PACIFICYACHTING.COM The charming, seaside town is a glimpse back in time to the days when La Conner was only accessible by boat. 1 2 3 2011 CANOE [ 1 ] JOURNEY 4 5 6 While we were visiting La Conner, the Swinomish Indian Tribal Com- munity hosted 60 canoes from all over the northwest during the week of July 25, 2011. The first modern Canoe Jour- ney was held in 1989 as part of Washington State’s centennial. Since then West Coast Salish First Nations (including British Colum- bia) have been gathering annually. The theme for 2011 was “Lov- [ 1 ] The La Conner Ice Cream Tower is a welcome stop for visitors on a hot summer day. [ 2 ] Nasty ing, Caring and Sharing Together” Jack’s antique shop has a great selection of antiques and curios. [ 3 ] Thirsty visitors should visit the La [ 4 ] [ 5 ] during which 15,000 guests were Conner Pub Tavern. Historic Gaches Mansion houses the La Conner Quilt Museum. The Ginger Grater has upscale kitchen gear. [ 6 ] The metal sculpture outside the Museum of Northwestern Art. treated to traditional dinners of salmon, clam chowder, crab, and elk stew. The week was filled with The community began to take shape in were restored and eventually entered in dancing, singing, drumming, story 1870 when John and Louisa A. Conner the National Registry of Historic Places. telling and a potlatch, a traditional arrived and built a large store and dock. way of redistributing wealth. The Swinomish spent two years Using his wife’s initials and married LA CONNER TODAY Walking distance from the building the waterfront Swadabs name, John renamed the town La Con- marina, La Conner invites us to explore its Park and three large cedar hat- ner to honour his wife, who travelled many eclectic gift boutiques, art galleries, shaped pavilions—fine examples across unsettled territory with a wagon- antique and collectible shops, and restau- of Northwest Coast Native art. load of children. rants housed in colourful Victorian build- Surrounding the pavilions are In the early days, boats were the main ings, complete with creaky wood floors, interpretive panels telling the mode of transportation in and out of lining the waterfront on First Street. story of the Canoe Journey, the town. The area was prone to flooding, Be sure to stop by Nasty Jack’s antique Great Flood, and the village of Txi- and dikes were erected to reclaim the shop, on the corner of First and Morris. wuc (the landing site). land from the Skagit River creating fer- It always has an amazing assortment of The Squaxin Island Tribe of tile fields with high yields of hay, oats, antiques and curios. southern Puget Sound will host barley and hops. Art lovers should head to the town’s the 2012 Canoe Journey. Business boomed in the 1880s as ware- Museum of Northwest Art, on South First houses, buildings and shipping docks Street, that showcases contemporary art proliferated and La Conner became one of of the Pacific Northwest and has a great the Northwest’s leading shipping centres gift shop.