Dermatoanthro pology of Ethnic Skin and Hair Neelam A. Vashi Howard I. Maibach Editors 123 Dermatoanthropology of Ethnic Skin and Hair Neelam A. Vashi • Howard I. Maibach Editors Dermatoanthropology of Ethnic Skin and Hair 123 Editors Neelam A. Vashi, MD Howard I. Maibach, MD Department of Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco Center for Ethnic Skin San Francisco, CA Boston University USA Boston, MA USA and Boston University School of Medicine Boston Medical Center Boston, MA USA ISBN 978-3-319-53960-7 ISBN 978-3-319-53961-4 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-53961-4 Library of Congress Control Number: 2017934311 © Springer International Publishing AG 2017 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Printed on acid-free paper This Springer imprint is published by Springer Nature The registered company is Springer International Publishing AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland This book is dedicated to Ava, my precious little baby, whose smiles and giggles forever fill my heart with joy. And to my husband, Eric, whose endless love and unwavering support have made my life’s endeavors possible. Neelam A. Vashi Preface Vashi and Maibach’s Dermatoanthropology of Ethnic Skin and Hair is a com- prehensive text that extensively examines cutaneous disease in persons with skin of color. The breadth of knowledge in this book encompasses the wide scope of dermatologic disease with 26 distinct and unique chapters. It serves as a guide to the diagnosis and treatment of skin disorders for those populations with darker skin types. This book provides an overview of medical, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology in addition to providing an extensive anthropological and basic science background to fully understand skin disorders in persons of color. Topics of discussion include anthropology of skin and hair, biophysical properties of ethnic skin, structure and function of the skin, physiologic pigmentation, mucosal lesions, acne, rosacea, inflammatory disorders, infections, autoimmune disorders, connective tissue dis- ease, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation and depigmentation, keloids, scarring, pediatric disease, alopecias, adnexal disorders, common cosmetic concerns and treatments, and cultural considerations. As the domestic and worldwide populations evolve, dermatologists will increasingly have to recognize nuances in skin disorders that occur in darker skin. We hope that this book helps dermatologists with the challenges involved in treating those with darker skin tones in culturally appropriate ways. It has been a great honor to have leaders in the field of dermatology and ethnic skin contribute to this book. We are forever grateful for the hard work and insights that were shared for this important contribution to dermatologic literature. Boston, USA Neelam A. Vashi, MD San Francisco, USA Howard I. Maibach, MD vii Contents 1 The Anthropology of Skin Colors: An Examination of the Evolution of Skin Pigmentation and the Concepts of Race and Skin of Color ................................. 1 Nina G. Jablonski 2 The Impact of Skin and Hair Disease in Ethnic Skin............ 13 Temitayo Ogunleye and Susan C. Taylor 3 Biophysical Properties of Ethnic Skin ........................ 27 E. Berardesca, M. Mariano and N. Cameli 4 Differences in Skin Structure and Function in Ethnic Populations ............................................. 35 Lauren E. Wiznia and Nada Elbuluk 5 Photosensitivity and Photoreactivity in Ethnic Skin ............. 49 Umer A. Ansari, Stephanie T. Le and Valerie M. Harvey 6 Stratum Corneum Lipids and Water-Holding Capacity.......... 63 Dimitrios Rigopoulos and Ekaterini Tiligada 7 Physiologic Pigmentation .................................. 75 Catherine M. Higham and Neelam A. Vashi 8 Mucosal Lesions in Skin of Color ........................... 87 Mayra B.C. Maymone and Allison R. Larson 9 Acne and Rosacea ........................................ 103 Christina N. Lawson and Valerie D. Callender 10 Inflammatory Disorders ................................... 129 Porcia Bradford Love 11 Tinea Versicolor and Tinea Capitis .......................... 143 Stavonnie Patterson and Lisa Akintilo ix x Contents 12 Autoimmune and Connective Tissue Disease in Skin of Color..... 161 Babu Singh, Scott Walter, Daniel J. Callaghan III., Jennifer Paek and Christina Lam 13 Disorders of Hyperpigmentation ............................ 197 Neeta Malviya and Amit Pandya 14 Disorders of Hypopigmentation and Depigmentation ............ 215 Trisha J. Patel, Ife J. Rodney and Rebat M. Halder 15 Keloids and Hypertrophic Scarring .......................... 233 Shalini Thareja and Roopal V. Kundu 16 Skin Cancer ............................................. 257 Ali Al-Haseni and Debjani Sahni 17 Pediatric Dermatology..................................... 285 Lubna H. Suaiti, Yasin A. Damji and Margaret S. Lee 18 The Anthropology of Human Scalp Hair...................... 315 Ophelia E. Dadzie, Tina Lasisi and Nina G. Jablonski 19 Alopecias and Disorders of the Hair Follicle ................... 331 Yunyoung C. Chang and Lynne J. Goldberg 20 Adnexal Disorders ........................................ 359 Andrew F. Alexis and Bridget P. Kaufman 21 Skin Aging in Individuals with Skin of Color .................. 389 Daniel Callaghan, Babu Singh and Kavitha K. Reddy 22 Common Cosmetic Concerns and Approaches ................. 405 Shalini B. Reddy, Pedro Zancanaro and Neelam A. Vashi 23 Treatment Strategies for Hyperpigmentation .................. 417 Judy Cheng and Neelam A. Vashi 24 Chemical Peels in Ethnic Skin .............................. 437 Judy Cheng and Neelam A. Vashi 25 Laser Treatment in Ethnic Skin............................. 449 Judy Cheng and Neelam A. Vashi 26 Cultural Considerations ................................... 467 Rechelle Z. Tull and Steven R. Feldman Index ...................................................... 479 Contributors Lisa Akintilo, BA Department of Dermatology, Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine, Chicago, IL, USA Ali Al-Haseni, MD Department of Dermatology, Boston University Medical Center, Boston, MA, USA Andrew F. Alexis, MD, MPH Department of Dermatology, Mount Sinai St. Luke’s and Mount Sinai West, New York, NY, USA Umer A. Ansari, BS Eastern Virginia Medical School, Norfolk, VA, USA E. Berardesca, MD Department of Dermatology, San Gallicano Dermatological Institute, IRCCS, Rome, Italy Daniel Callaghan, MD Department of Dermatology, Boston University Medical Center, Boston, MA, USA Daniel J. Callaghan III., MD Department of Dermatology, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA Valerie D. Callender, MD, FAAD Callender Dermatology and Cosmetic Center, Glenn Dale, MD, USA N. Cameli, MD San Gallicano Dermatological Institute, IRCCS, Rome, Italy Yunyoung C. Chang, MD Department of Dermatology, Boston University School of Medicine, Boston, MA, USA Judy Cheng, MD, MPH Department of Dermatology, Boston University Medical Center, Boston, MA, USA Ophelia E. Dadzie, BSc (Hons), MBBS, FRCP, DipRCPath (Dermpath) Departments of Dermatology and Histopathology, The Hillingdon Hospitals NHS Foundation Trust, Uxbridge, UK; Imperial College London, University of London, London, UK xi xii Contributors Yasin A. Damji, BA Boston University School of Medicine, Boston, MA, USA Nada Elbuluk, MD, MSc The Ronald O. Perelman Department of Dermatology, NYU School of Medicine, New York, NY, USA Steven R. Feldman, MD, PhD Department of Dermatology, Pathology and Public Health Sciences, Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, NC, USA Lynne J. Goldberg, MD Department of Dermatology, Boston University School of Medicine, Boston, MA, USA Rebat M. Halder, MD Department of Dermatology, Howard College of Medicine, Washington, DC, USA Valerie M. Harvey, MD, MPH Department of Dermatology, Eastern Virginia Medical School, Norfolk, VA, USA; Hampton University Skin of Color Research Institute, Hampton, VA, USA Catherine M. Higham, MD Boston University Medical Center, Boston, MA, USA Nina G. Jablonski, AB, PhD Evan Pugh University Professor of Anthropology, Department of Anthropology, Center for Human Evolution and Diversity, The Huck Institutes of the Life Sciences, The Pennsylvania State University, University Park, PA, USA Bridget P. Kaufman, MD Department of Dermatology, Mount Sinai St. Luke’s and Mount Sinai West, New York, NY, USA