THE WALL STREET JOURNAL MAGAZINE MAGAZINE JOURNAL STREET WALL THE THE WALL STREET JOURNAL MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2011 SEASON Frippery, Fetes, Feasts, Friends, OF & Frocks Fantasy DECEMBER 2011 FOLLY 1211_WSJ_Cover_03.indd 1 10/25/11 2:07:18 PM RALPH LAUREN CHANDELIER EARRING WITH DIAMONDS, EMERALDS AND BLACK SPINEL Ralph Lauren_205563789.indd 3 10/17/11 7:45 PM RALPH LAUREN EQUESTRIAN BRACELET WITH FULL-PAVÉ DIAMONDS, EXPERIENCE THE HOLIDAY COLLECTIONS IN OUR NEW EMERALD AND ALLIGATOR STRAP CINEMATIC WORLD ONLINE AT HOLIDAY.RALPHLAUREN.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CALL 212.434.8050 Ralph Lauren_205563790.indd 2 10/17/11 7:30 PM Ralph Lauren_205563790.indd 3 10/17/11 7:30 PM ® , Inc. J 12 ® ©2011 CHANEL 800.550.0005 • WatchWatch in titanium ceramic, a new highly scratch-resistantscratch-resistant material. Its unique color and shine are obtained by thethe addition of titanium to ceramic and diamond powder polishing. Self-winding mechanical movement.movement. 42-hour42-hour powerpower reserve.reserve. WaterWater resistantresistant to 200 meters.meters. CHANEL BOUTIQUES CHANEL.COMCHANEL.COM Chanel_ 205564805.indd 2 11/1/11 7:39 PM Chanel_ 205564805.indd 3 11/1/11 7:39 PM Hermès, contemporary artisan since 1837. 1-800-441-4488 Hermes.com Hermes_205564745.indd 2 10/28/11 5:42 PM Hermes_205564745.indd 3 10/28/11 5:43 PM Final_Ad_Grid_WSJ_Mag_Safety.indd 2 9/27/11 7:16 PM Final_Ad_Grid_WSJ_Mag_Safety.indd 3 9/27/11 7:16 PM TOMFORD.COM AVAILABLE AT BERGDORF GOODMAN Estee Louder_ 205564631.indd 2 10/20/11 6:45 PM Estee Louder_ 205564631.indd 3 10/20/11 6:45 PM Sony Reader_ 205565244.indd 2 10/28/11 5:16 PM Sony Reader_ 205565244.indd 3 10/28/11 5:17 PM New York 717 MadisoN aveNue east HaMptoN 23 MaiN street Las vegas ForuM sHops devikroeLL.coM Devi Ads.indd 6 7/22/11 3:44 PM Devi Ads.indd 7 7/22/11 3:44 PM cartier 0- 80 DECEMBERWSJ. MAGAZINE | ISSUE NO. 21 1- s - .u artier .c www 98 SOME KIND OF WONDERFUL Glamorously surreal fashion takes to the streets of Paris. PHOTOGRAPHS BY HANS FEURER STYLING BY SABINA SCHREDER 106 UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRS AND IN BETWEEN The heirs to some of England’s stateliest homes have invited Americans to pay a visit and help foot the bill. BY FRANZ LIDZ PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SPINKS 114 EATING SPAIN With Spain reigning as the world’s premier food destination, critic Jonathan Gold travels across the country sampling the best this Modernist Culinary movement has to offer. BY JONATHAN GOLD PHOTOGRAPHS BY THIBAULT MONTAMAT 122 THE CATROUX OF PARIS AND PROVENCE Decorator François Catroux and his wife, Betty, have been at the forefront of style for more than four decades. They open the doors to their elegant homes. BY DAVID NETTO PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANÇOIS HALARD 134 THE INSIDER’S OUTSIDER How Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has become the envy of the fashion world. BY DANA THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANNABEL ELSTON [COVER] Heather Huey mask $998 Heatherhuey .com; Boucheron necklace and ring, price upon request, Boucheron.com; Tom Ford dress, price upon request, 212-359-0300; Fendi fur coat $20,900, 212-759-7676; Sophie Hallette Paris black tulle, Sophiehallette.com 122 [THIS PAGE] François and Betty Catroux in ©2 COURTESY OF FRANÇOIS CATROUX Cap Ferrat on their wedding day, 1967. 01 1 Ca rtier December 2011 17 1211_WSJ_TOC_02.indd 17 11/1/11 2:12:47 PM EvEventually,entually, you’ll close the doors to your First Class Private Suite, slip on complimentary pajamas, and drift off to sleep. But when you can chat in the First and Business Class onboard Lounge, or Stay up past your bedtime. visit the First Class Shower Spa, what’s the hurry? Discover more at emirates.com/choices The Emirates A380. A sky full of choices. Fly Emirates. Keep discovering. ememirates.com/choicesirates.com/choices Over 400 international awards including Air Transport World 2011 Airline of the Year. Daily non-stop service from Dallas begins FebruarFebruaryy 2, 2012 and from Seattle March 1, 2012. Discover frequent flyer benefits at skywards.com Emirates_ 205564806.indd 2 10/31/11 5:12 PM Emirates_ 205564806.indd 3 10/31/11 5:12 PM DECEMBER contents 59 52 41 ATION) “Most owners of stately homes in Great Britain made their money the old-fashioned way: They inherited it. Moats, turrets and drawbridges are splendid to behold, but the upkeep is overwhelming.” —FRANZ LIDZ, ”UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRS AND IN BETWEEN,” P. 106 24 EDITOR’S LETTER 44 RENEGADE Considered a Hollywood 28 BACKSTORY carpetbagger when he took over as artistic 30 MARKET REPORT director of London’s The latest designs legendary Old Vic Theatre, get a metallic sheen, Kevin Spacey shores warm winter whites up his legacy with a turn herald the season, as Richard III and takes the and the beauty products show on the road. guys are stealing from their girls. 48 TRACKED A 19-hour-day 41 SOAPBOX spent trailing the domestic Powerhouse gallerist diva Martha Stewart Barbara Gladstone as she manages reflects on building to shift seamlessly her three-decade-long between farm life, career through good corporate culture and 106 relationships as an evening of much as good work. Hollywood glamour. CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM: PHOTOS BY JOHN SPINKS; ESTELLE HANANIA; SUSANNA HOWE; COURTESY OF GLADSTONE GALLERY (ANDRO WEKUA INSTALL ONLINE A closer look at Martha Stewart’s busy day; from sketch to fruition, more behind the scenes @WSJ photos of Roger Vivier’s new line; and where to wine and dine in Spain. wsjmagazine.com. 20 December 2011 1211_WSJ_TOC_01.indd 20 10/28/11 12:59:45 AM ©201 1 DECEMBER contents Harry Wi nston, Inc. “Have you ever wondered what it might be like to eat a stone? Because it’s probably less wonderful than you might have imagined as a preschooler.” —JONATHAN GOLD, “EATING SPAIN,” P. 114 52 PARTNERSHIP 74 ART TOUR Actor Robert Downey Investing in culture as Jr. and his pal artist much as fashion, the family Tobias Keene riff on behind Max Mara made their long-running an art destination out of friendship with a fair their bucolic hometown. degree of candor and a bit of PDA. 78 GIFTS A perfectly to-the-point 59 MAKING IT holiday wish list to tell From inside the studio, you exactly what men the creation of an iconic and women really want. new look for the exclusive French accessories 140 OPEN SECRET brand Roger Vivier. Far away from big-city brethren, a simple ski 64 JEWELS lodge restaurant in Dramatic portraiture: Calfornia’s Mammoth Lake A distinguished group is serving French cuisine 48 of ladies model big, that rivals the best bold, beautiful diamonds. the U.S. has to offer. 78 134 114 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PHOTOS BY RICHARD CHOI; THIBAULT MONTAMAT; ANNABEL ELSTON; NIGEL SHAFRAN Get a Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal for a weekly fi x of smart style and culture. GET WSJ Includes OFF DUTY, a guide to your not-at-work life, REVIEW, the best in arts, books and culture, and, SATURDAY of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www.subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend TM 22 December 2011 1211_WSJ_TOC_01.indd 22 10/28/11 12:59:48 AM DECEMBER editor’s letter SEASON OF SPARKLE HE CHANGE IN WINTER WEATHER ELICITS two simultaneous yet diametrically opposite impulses: stay in and get cozy—I’m envision- ing my family, all in pajamas, watching a movieT and cooking up something hot and sticky—or dress up and shine and hit the town. It is the latter desire—for glamour, beautiful objects and dreamy faraway places—that inspired this December issue. This year has been rough in many ways, and so we bid it goodbye with a sense of fantasy and folly. We jet to Paris with the beautiful young model Chanel Iman for a portfolio that celebrates all the pretty excesses of fashion (page 98). We follow food critic Jonathan Gold on his gastronomic grand tour through Spain’s best restaurants (page 114). We step inside some of England’s grandest homes, where paying Americans can party like royals for a night or two (page 106), and visit with François Catroux, one of France’s lead- ing decorators (page 122). And don’t miss “The Wish List” (page 78), our salute to the magazine tradition PUT ON YOUR DANCING SHOES of the “gift guide.” We hope Roger Vivier’s you want everything we do. artistic director, Here’s to a stupendously Bruno Frisoni, happy 2012. sketched these stilettos on his iPad using an app Deborah Needleman called Brushes. [email protected] EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Needleman MARKET EDITOR Andrew Lutjens EUROPEAN EDITOR PUBLISHER Anthony Cenname CREATIVE DIRECTOR Patrick Li PHOTO EDITOR Damian Prado Rita Konig GLOBAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR DEPUTY EDITOR Michael Caruso ASSOCIATE EDITOR Adrienne Gaff ney CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Stephanie Arnold MANAGING EDITOR Brekke Fletcher PRODUCTION MANAGER Leah Phillips Michael Clerizo, Sara Ruffin Costello, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/EUROPE FASHION NEWS DIRECTOR JUNIOR DESIGNER Alex Konsevick Maura Egan, Joshua Levine, Charlotte Claudio Piovesana Whitney Vargas FASHION ASSISTANT Mariana Belo Moss, David Netto, Kevin Sintumuang, BUSINESS MANAGER PHOTO DIRECTOR Nadia Vellam ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR Dana Thomas Julie Checketts ART DIRECTOR Pierre Tardif Alainna Lexie Beddie CONTRIBUTING COPY EDITOR SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER EXECUTIVE STYLE EDITOR David Farber WEB EDITORS Allison Lichter, Robin Kawakami Christine Glancey Jillian Maxwell WSJ. Issue 21, December 2011, Copyright 2011, Dow Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited.