Newsletter of the Jedediah Smith Society • University of the Pacific, Stockton, California SPRING 2014 Things Learned Pursuing the Reestablishment of Monument No. 660 (Presented at the Jedediah Smith Society’s 2014 Spring Gathering on March 15th) By Joe J. Molter Periodically I like to review the book without making a visit and prepared myself by getting familiar the Society printed in 1999 called: Jedediah Smith and His with the access roads and general area by looking at computer Monuments, which is actually a update of an earlier version maps and satellite images. During this time, a couple called: Monuments to Jedediah Smith, originally printed in other Society members started 1984, both written by Raymund F. Wood, historian, professor enquiring about this monument and past president of our Jedediah Smith Society.¹ By doing so, and last year during a Board I become more aware of the 66 documented monuments, plus Meeting, the possibilities of an additional half dozen more that have since been established reestablishing this plaque were that I’ve added to the back of my book, all dedicated to discussed. Jedediah Strong Smith, his travels and accomplishments. Not long after, I was able This practice came about after several times arriving home to visit this site and factors from trips and realizing with disappointment that I had passed associated with its location right by one of these monuments or locations important in the evoked thoughts and questions history of this great trapper, trader and explorer, without even of whether this was a proper and a thought that Jedediah had been there! suitable spot to reestablish this One such monument that I monument. The naked boulder, Monument stone without had read about and passed stripped of its plaque, lies today plaque. several times without isolated along the southern edge visiting was an official of the old Edison Highway. This two lane road was once California Historical the main artery east from the valley floor over the Tehachapi Landmark No. 660. It’s Mountains to the arid lands of the Mojave Desert and has located is 13.5 miles east since been replaced by a new, four lane, divided Highway #58. of the city of Bakersfield Both thoroughfares parallel the “old” Tehachapi route, which in the southern end of the was thought to be the route Jedediah utilized. The main usage San Joaquin Valley, which today of this old highway has changed; instead of passenger is the southern portion of cars, there’s now a constant hum of garbage trucks, going to Original plaque California’s Great Central and from some nearby landfill. The monument sits tucked-in Valley. This monument was dedicated and placed in 1959, along the edge of a citrus grove, which on the day I visited but unfortunately its bronze plaque was stolen 18 years later had been plowed around it, with a ditch along its edge, forcing in 1977. This plaque was titled: JEDEDIAH STRONG me to jump over to obtain access. Also a heavily used double SMITH TRAIL, and read: NEAR THIS SPOT ABOUT THE set of railroad tracks is situated across this road, adding to my FIRST OF FEBRUARY 1827 JEDEDIAH STRONG SMITH, initial feelings towards this site. FIRST UNITED STATES CITIZEN TO REACH MEXICAN After this visit, I started to investigate if there was a more CALIFORNIA OVERLAND, PASSED THROUGH THE suitable site, one that would be safer, with less chance of PRESENT AREA OF KERN COUNTY WITH HIS PARTY being stolen again and one that would be exposed to a greater OF FUR TRAPPERS. FROM SAN GABRIEL MISSION number of people who would find its historic information THE GROUP WAS ENTROUTE NORTH TO A LAND enriching to their understanding of the past. As I started REPORTED TEEMING WITH “PLENTY OF BEAVER.” researching potential relocation sites, questions soon arose as SMITH AND HIS MEN WERE TRAILBLAZERS WHOSE to their proximity to Jedediah’s actual trail and I knew I needed EXPLOITS SOON LED TO THE AMERICAN CONQUEST to research and establish its location before proceeding any OF CALIFORNIA. I had determined not to pass this site again Continued on page 2 Things Learned Pursuing the Reestablishment of Monument No. 660 further. I also realized the need to go back and see why the it. Coming into the valley from the southeast, I had passed original monument site was chosen 55 years ago. In reading over a range of hills which in their course a little east of north, appeared to increase in height.” 4 the original “Application for Registration of Historical Point of Interest,” filed with the State of California in 1958, it The “Too Laree” Lake mentioned by Jedediah has to be old stated that Jedediah Smith entered the San Joaquin Valley by Kern Lake that was situated in the extreme southern end of the crossing the mountains to the east of this location “via Willow San Joaquin Valley. It was connected by a sough to a slightly Springs and Oak Creek Pass.” ² Believing he would have kept larger adjacent lake lying to its northwest called Buena Vista, close to the foothills upon emerging from the mountains due both watered primarily by the Kern River. This “Too Laree” to his need of water for his party and for trapping purposes, or Kern Lake is not to be confused with the larger Tulare Lake the present location along Route 466 (Edison Highway) was that was located approximately 50 miles further northwest up chosen for being near his supposed trail. In the final paragraph the valley and was at least 25 times larger. All these lakes no of this application titled: “History and Description”, it sums longer exist today, with the exception of a small remnant of up what was really known about this route at that time of its Lake Buena Vista, being converted to agriculture lands many submission, when it states “The record of Smith’s journeys years ago. Kern Lake fits well with Jed’s Journal entry, in that across what is now Kern County is somewhat sketchy and it is about “12 miles in circumference” and is in a “fine large indefinite.” valley” which does commences about “12 miles south of it,” Eight years after its dedication in 1959, an important manuscript came to light which I feel has a direct bearing on this monuments present location and any future relocation sites. In 1967, a long lost portion of Jedediah’s Journal was discovered that covers his travels through this part of the country, which sadly took an additional 10 more years before it was published and made available to the general public! ³ This manuscript reveals in Jedediah’s own words that he entered the south end of the San Joaquin Valley not using the “old” Tehachapi route, but a route that had to be much further south! Between the dates of February 7th through the 10th of 1827, Jed wrote these words: “I resumed my NW course for two short days travel, the low Mt. still on my left and barren plains on my right, when I fell in with some Indians who I suppose were runaways from some mission as they had some horses. I ascertained by Route Location Map depending on where that measurement are taken. enquiry of them that there were some streams and lakes ahead. I engaged a guide to conduct me to them and after two days His approach to this Lake being in a northwest direction travel, still continuing my NW direction, I arrived at a lake would rule out him coming over “old” Tehachapi route. If called by the Spaniards, Too Laree or Flag Lake. I arrived he had, Jedediah and his party would have been too far north at the lake quite late and found the bank so muddy that it was to intercept Kern Lake on the bearing and distance they were impossible for my horses to get any water, yet I was obliged to heading! They would of also had to turn southwest upon encamp. From what I could learn of the Indians, the Spaniards entering the valley and cover approximately 20 additional had named it from miles, a good days journey in itself, to reach the shores of report but be that this lake. John C. Fremont in 1844 used this same “old” as it may, the Tehachapi route in-reverse, totally unaware that Kern and name was quite Buena Vista Lakes existed, as shown by their absence on his appropriate. Too detailed map published in his 1845 report. 5 It is my belief that Laree Lake is if Jed was led this way by his Indian guide, he would have about 12 miles continued in a northerly direction, his main destination, also in circumference over-looking these lakes! The Kern River would have been and is in a fine close-at-hand upon entering this valley, being sufficient to large valley which meet his immediate needs, as well as the other lakes and rivers Enlargement of a portion of the commences about 1857 Brittom & Rey’s Map of the further north. To turn southward involving a day’s journey State of California 12 miles south of -2- Continued on page 3 Things Learned Pursuing the Reestablishment of Monument No. 660 and then back again would jaunt across a finger of desert in Antelope be unnecessary and loss of Valley to access. The other possible route valuable time and effort. would be to continue NW along the edge of the San Gabriel Mountains, following today’s Prior to Jedediah’s California State Highway 138 and connecting entrance into the San with Interstate Highway 5 near Gorman and Joaquin Valley, he was continuing to follow that northwesterly down required to enter into Grapevine Canyon into the valley towards the Mexican Territory of Kern Lake.