Cornell University Library arV1479 A lourney to central Africa 3 1924 031 270 824 olin,anx Cornell University Library The original of tliis bool< is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924031270824 MODERN ORIENTAL COSTUME . JOUMEY TO CENTRAL AFEICA OB, L.IFE AND LANDSCAPES FROM EGYPT TO THE NEGEO KINGDOMS OP THE WHITE NILE. BAYARD TAYLOR. VSi\^ a ffiap anti SUnsttatttiiiJ hij ttiJ Sntlmr. TENTH EDITION. NEW-YORK: G. P. PUTNAM & CO., 321 BROADWAY. LONDON SAMPSON LOW, SON & CO. 1857. Ektohkd according to Act of Congress, In the year 18S4, by G. P. PUTS AM £ CO., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of Nevr YorlE. A. B. OP SAIE-COBCRG-GOTHA BY Hia FELLOW-TRAVELLEE IN EGYPT. ' B. T. PREFACE. TiiEKE is an old Italian proverb, wMcli says a man has lived to no purpose, unless he has either built a house, begotten a son, or written a book. As I have already comphed more than once with the latter of these requisitions, I must seek to justify the present repetition thereof, on other grounds. My reasons for offering this volume to the public are, simply, that there is room for it. It is the record of a journey which led me, for the most part, over fresh fields, by paths which comparatively few had trodden before me. Al- though I cannot hope to add much to the general stock of information concerning Central Africa, I may serve, at least, as an additional witness, to confirm or illustrate the evidence of others. Hence, the prepara- tion of this work has appeared to me rather in the light PREFACE. of a duty than a diversion, and I have endeavored to impart as much instruction as amusement to the reader. While seeking to give correct pictures of tho rich, adventurous lilo inlo wliich I was thrown, 1 have resisted the temptation to yield myself up to its more subtle and poetic aspects. My aim has boeu to furnish a faithful narrative of my own experience, believing that none of those embellislimcnts which the imagina- tion BO readily furnishes, can equal the charm of the unadorned truth. There are a few words of further explanation which I wish to say. The journey was undertaken solely for the purpose of restoring a frame exhausted by severe mental labor. A previous experience of a tropi- cal climate convinced me that I should best accomplish my object by a visit to Egypt, and as I had a whole winter before me, I determined to penetrate as far into the interior of Africa as the time would allow, attracted less by the historical and geographical interest of those regions than by the desire to participate in their free, vigorous, semi-barbaric life. If it had been my inten- tion, as some of my friends supposed, to search for the undiscovered sources of the White Nile, I should not have turned back, until the aim was accomplished or all means had failed. I aware am . that, by including in this work my journey through Egypt, I have gone over much ground PEBFAOE. which is already familiar. Egypt, however, was the vestibule through which I passed to Ethiopia and the Idngdoms beyond, and I have not been able to omit my impressions of that country without detracting from the completeness of the narrative. This book is the record of a single journey, which, both in its character and in the circumstances that suggested and accompa- nied it, occupies a separate place in my memory. Its performance was one uninterrupted enjoyment, for, whatever the privations to which it exposed me, they were neutralized by the physical delight of restored health and by a happy confidence in the successful issue of the journey, which never forsook me. It is therefore but just to say, that the pictures I have drawn may seem over-bright to others who may here- after follow me ; and I should warn aU such that they must expect to encounter many troubles and annoy- ances. Although I have described somewhat minutely the antiquities of Nubia and Ethiopia which I visit«d, and have not been insensible to the interest which every traveller in Egypt must feel in the remains of her ancient art, I have aimed at giving representations of the Uving race^ which inhabit those countries rather than the old ones which have passed away. I have taken it for granted that the reader will feel more interested—as I was—in a live Arab, than a dead 4 PREFACE. Pharaoh. I am indebted wholly to the works of Cham* pollion, Wilkinson and Lepsius for whatever allusions I have made to the age and character of the Egyptian ruins. B. T. New Yobk, July, 1854. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Arrival »t Alexandria—The Landing—My First Oriental Bati—The City—Prepara- tions for Departure, 13 CHAPTER IL Departaro—The Kan^a—The Egyptian Climate—The Mahmoudieh Canal—Entrance into the Nile—Pleasures of the Journey—Studying Arabic—Sight of the Pyi'amids —The Barrago^Approach to Cairo, 21 CHAPTER in. Entrance—The Ezbekiyeh—Saracenic Houses-Doilkeys—The Bazaars—The Streets -Processions—View from the Citadel—Mosque of Mohammed All-The Eoad to Suez-The Island of Ehoda, 84 CHAPTER IV. Necessity of Leaving Immediately—^Engaging a Boat—^The Dragomen—^Achmet el Saldi—Funds—Information—Procuring an Outfit—Preparing for' the Desert—^The Lucky Day—Exertions to Leave—Off, 46 CHAPTER V. Howling Dervishes—A Chicken Factory-Eide to the Pyramids—Quarrel with the Arabs—The Ascent—View trom the Summit—Backsheesh—Effect of Pyramid- ollmblng—The Sphinx—Playing the Cadi—We obtain Justice-Tisit to Sakkara and the Mummy Pits—^The Exhumation of Memphis—Interview with M. Mariette -AcoonntofhiaDlscoveries—Statue of Eemeses It—Eetum to the Nile, . 6B A CONTBKTS. CHAPTER VI. Leaving Ibe Pyramids—A Calm and a Broezo—A Coptic Visit—Minyeh—The Grottoat of Benl-Hassan—Doum Palms and Crooodlles-Djebel Aboufayda—Entrance into Upper Egypt—Diversiotis of the Boatmen—Sioat— Its Tombs—A Landscape- Bath, Tl CHAPTER VH. Independence of Nile Life-The Dahnblyoh—Our Servants—Our Itosidenoo—Our Man- ner of Living—Tho Climate—The Natives—Co3t*n6—Our Sunset Eoposo—My Friend—A Sensuous Life Defended, 85 CHAPTER Vin. Calm—Mountains and Tombs—A Night Adventure In Ekhmln—Character of the JBoatmen—Fair Wind—Pilgrims—Egyptian Agriculture—Sugar and Cotton—Gralu —Sheep—Arrival at Kenneh—A Landscape—Tho Temple of Dendera—First Im- pressions of Egyptian Ai -—Portrait of Cleopatra—A Happy Meeting—We approach Thebes, jg CHAPTER IX. Arrival at Thebes—Ground-Plan of the Eemains—We Cross to the Western Bank— Guides—Tho Temple of Goorneh—Valley of the Kings' Tombs—Belzoni's Tomb— The Kaoos of Men—Vandalism of Antiquarians—Bruoe's Tomb—Memnon—Tlio Grandfather of Besostris—Tho Head of Amunoph—The Colossi of the Plain— Memnonian Music—Tho Statue of Eemeeos—The Memnonium—Beauty of Egyp- tian Art—More Scrambles among tho Tombs—The Bats of the Assassoef-Medee- net Sculptured Abon— Histories—Tho Great Court of the Temple—We return to ^n^or. US CHAPTER X. ITie Dancing Girls of Egypt-A Night Scene in Luxor-The Orange-Blossom and the Apple-Blossom-The Beautiful Bemba-The Dance-Performanco of the Apple- BIossom-The Temple of Luxor-A Mohammedan School-Gallop to Earnak- View of the Eulns-Tho Great Hall of Pillars-Bedouin Dlvcrsions-A Night Elde—Karnak under the Full Moon— Farewell to Thobes, .... 181 CHAPTER XI. The Temple of Hermontis-Esneh .-ind Its Temple-The Govemor-EI Kab by Torch- light-The Temple of Edfou-The Quarries of Djebel Sllsileh-Ombos-Approaoh to Nubi*-Change In the Scenery and Inhabitants-A Mirage -Arrivai at As- """"" 14B CHAPTER XIL ^.S?'''.*'I'«'~tf"f;^°°'""^'^-'^'''^"°'"'''f^'«P''«'«''»-NubianOhlldr«i- Trip to PhltaH-LInantBey-The Island of Phlto-Sculptnres-The Negro Eaco- —A CONTENTS. %«akfiist In a Ptolemaic Temple—The Island of Biggeh— — Eaoksheesh—The Catavact ^The Granite Quarries of Assouan—The Travellers separate, . 152 CHAPTER XIII. Solitaiy Travel—Scenery of tlio Nubinn Nile—Agi-iculture—The Inhabitants—Arrival at Korosko—^The Governor—The Tent Pitched—Shekb Abou-Mohammed—Bar- gaining for Camels—A Drove of Giraflbs —Visits—Preparations for the Desert—My Last Evening on the Nile, . •• . 162 CHAPTER XIV. The Curve of the Nile—Kontes across the Desert—Our Caravan starts—Eiding on a Dromedary—The Guide and Camel-drivers—Hair-dressing—El Biban— Scenery Dead Camels—An TTnexpected Visit—The Guide makes my Grave—The Kiver without "Water—Characteristics of the Mirage—Desert Life—The Sun—The Desert Air—Infernal Sceneiy—The AVells of Miirr-h^t— Christmas—Mountain Chains Meeting Caravans—Plains of Gravel—The Stoiy of Josepll-Djebel Mokrat—The Last Day in the Desert—Wo see the Nile again, . ... ITl CHAPTER XV. A Draught of Water—Abou-IIammed—The Island of MokrAt—Ethiopian Scenery People An Ababdeh Apollo—Encampment on the Nile—Tomb of an English- The — — man—Eesa's Weddjng—A "White Arab ^The Last Day of the Tear—Abou-Hashym —Incidents—Loss of my Thermometer—The Valley of Wild Asses—The Eleventh Cataract—Approach to Berber—Vultures—Eyoub Outwitted—We reach El Mek- beyref—The Caravan Broken up, . 198 CHAPTER XVI. A Wedding—My EecepUon by the Military Governor—Achmet—The Bridegroom— Guard—I am an American Bey—KM—The Bey's Visit—The Civil Governor— About the Navy—The Priest's Visit—Eiding in State—The Dongolese Stallion— Merchant's House -The Town—Dinner at tho Governor's-The Pains of Eoyalty— SOS A Salute to the American Flag-Departure, .