International Journal of Home Science 2018; 4(1): 172-180 ISSN: 2395-7476 IJHS 2018; 4(1): 172-180 © 2018 IJHS Evolution of paisley motif of Kashmir: A report on www.homesciencejournal.com Received: 28-11-2017 paisley motif of Kashmir Accepted: 29-12-2017 Ankita Kallan Ankita Kallan Research Scholar, RIMT University, Abstract Mandi Gobindgarh, Punjab, Kashmir is renowned for its natural beauty, textiles, colors, fabrics, designs and techniques. Probably, the India best known Indian textiles are the “textiles of Kashmir”. The textiles of Kashmir are revealed by their beautiful, intricate and delicate designs. The Paisley motif of Kashmir which is called “Kashmir Paisley” is often called “Mango motif” or “Ambi” also. It is a world famous motif and is famously called as a “tear drop” or a “tadpole shape pattern” in the rest of the world. The paisley motif is very old motif of Kashmir which is locally known as “kalga” or “kalanga”. It has Persian fragrance and came into light during Mughal rule somewhere between 15th - 16th centuries and continues to be used on everything from haute couture to a whole range of everyday domestic goods and gift items. This research was done to study the historical background, origin, technique, various changes and development in the Kashmir Paisley motif, present scenario and its use in the contemporary world. To acquire an in-depth knowledge on the topic, an interview schedule was formulated from the respondents of officials, weavers, embroiders, carpet makers, exporters who deal with this motif on day-to-day basis. This research will help to analyze the contemporary styles and also to create how innovatively it can be used to add glamour by various combinations and modifications to print bed covers and dress material. Keywords: Paisley motif, textiles of Kashmir, kalga, kalanga Introduction From time immemorial and to indefinite future, if there is one thing that is ever changing and evolving as the human civilization, it is the changing form of textiles and its designs in synchronization with the changing socio-political scenario. Manish Malhotra wearing linen coat. Correspondence Ankita Kallan Research Scholar, RIMT University, Mandi Gobindgarh, Punjab, India Lord Shiva covered Himself with leaves ~ 172 ~ International Journal of Home Science From the prehistoric age, Lord Shiva covered themselves with Paisley is a prevalent motif: Paisley has been the principal leaves or animal hides to the present day finest linen wore by town of Renfrewshire since the middle ages. During its long our everyday celebrities, cloth was man’s constant companion history, the town has witnessed kings, queens and princess though its forms and textures have changed with the changing wars and religious poems and stories. time. Civilization one after the other gave cloth or the Jammu and Kashmir have been characterized as the cradle of industry, which goes by the name of textiles, an important Indian civilization and culture because it is around the role, making it a part of their culture, tradition and heritage Shivalik ranges, the kargil, that the ancient cities and towns of History of handicrafts of India can be traced back to, as old as Jammu and Kashmir sprang up. It is here only, the nature of the Stone Age. The art of weaving and spinning was known to the art is still alive in the fingers of people of Jammu and Harappa’s 5000 years ago. Foundations of textiles in other Kashmir. During mughals the art touches the heights and countries date back to 2nd century B.C. Block print fabrics, reaches to the wonderful designing. embroidered garments etc are followed in the Egyptian tombs Motif is an important factor in any design. It is not exactly is the evidence that Indian was producing in the medieval known when and where the first paisley was woven or ages. embroidered on the artifacts of Kashmir. It sums that the motif is derived from Persia during Mughal rule and since then with the passage of time rich contribution were made. Shawl draped by “Priest King” statue of Indus Valley Civilization (2200- 1900 B.C). Even Vedas have references of artisans involved in various handicrafts of India like weaving, wood carving, embroidery etc. the rig Vedas in particular refers to the weavers and their weavings with beautiful design patterns. The craft history shows that Indian designing flourished during the Mauryan Empire where nearly 85000 stupas were built with intricate designing Paisley is woven and embroidered all over the country but the The Indian art and craft have been renowned in the world for paisleys of Kashmir is renowned for its intricacy and their exquisite design, elegance attractive colors and uniqueness. Paisley of Kashmir is an elongated tear drop used workmanship. The magnificence of Indian designs and the as a symbol to represent the growing shoot of a date palm. intricate patterns that emerged from, it has substantially The palm provided fruits, drinks, clothing (woven fibers) and increased India’s export and placed it in the international map. shelters so became regarded as “the tree of life” with its The most supporting northern state of India in the constituent growing shoot being gradually recognized as a fertility supply of art product is Jammu and Kashmir. The state is well symbol. It is ornamented in variety of shapes. The weavers, known for its hand-woven textiles whether it is concerned embroiders and the craftsmen are located on the all sides of with the shawls, carpets, rugs, woolen fabrics, hand green valley of Jammu and Kashmir i.e, Lakanpur, Kathua, embroidery etc with the elongated paisley motifs. Vijaypur, Udhamnagar, Srinagar, Avantipur. Pahalgav. The Paisley motif is intermingled with so many artistic motifs like Lilies, Lotus, Iris, Cherries, Almonds, Chinar leaf.The art of weaving has known away back but Kashmir carpets and Pashmina shawls are very popular which are specialized in wonderful paisley motifs and designs. The oldest example of Kashmir trade textiles have been found at sites near the Red Sea. The small fragments from 15 century were discovered at the Greek trading post of Berenike in Southern Egypt.The brilliant floral motifs were also intermingled with elongated paisley shape. During the peak of trade in mid 17 century, millions of yards of Kashmir embroidered cloth and carpets were being sold in the markets as far as Persia, Europe, Middle East etc. through the Mughal kingsThe Srinagar weaving belt in Jammu and Kashmir supports the largest handloom industry of the world crafts continue to be handmade, there is no machine that can be tied a knot or interlaced the way human fingers can. Ornamented Paisley pattern ~ 173 ~ International Journal of Home Science Historical background “Kalga” or “Paisley” has become a basic shape of designing world. Kashmir is the most beautiful enchanting land of India, where an enormous variety of culture, religion, language, art, craft, holy places exists but there is more leading tradition of weaving shawls, carpets, embroidery, Papier Mache moldings and paintings, wood and silver work with wonderful paisley motif of highest quality and beauty unparalleled anywhere. India has a diverse and rich craft history with intricate and minute designing. Kashmir Paisley Motif with flowers. Kashmir Paisley Motif with flowers. The vast crafts, culture and traditions shows the proofs of famous aesthetics art history elaborate design patterns, Some masterpieces of shawls weaved and embroidered with painfully crafted monuments, temples and sculptures all are paisley motifs are kept in Victoria and Albert Musuem, the magnificent masterpieces of craftsmanship. All Indian London. handicrafts and their patterns were mostly rendering everyday Ritu Kumar, the renowned designer, highlighted paisley the living, socio political conditions, palaces and court scenes. most in her 1994’s Karabagh’s collection and in the folio” the The art of designing has been known to the man since gurus of the Sikhs” by Amrit and Rabindra Kaur Singh, they antiquity and the earliest designing can be traced back to give much importance to the paisley used as border in their before the birth of Christ. The beginning of the history of work. It can be easily said that paisley has became an designing in India is little uncertain. But according to the important motif in the designing world. usual account, we can place them at the Mohammadan invasion in 712 AD. Even if the Indians already knew and use Objectives cloth for floor and to cover their body, it has been confined 1. To study the origin and historical background of paisley that they learnt the art of weaving from the Persians and under motif of Jammu and Kashmir the guidance of some expert masters in the course of time, 2. To study the yarns, motifs, placements, colors art they made it as a refined art, worthy in every possible way of products etc at Kashmir. their other artistic achievements. According to Kashmiri 3. To study the use of various materials used in its creation. historians, geographical and researchers, Sultan Zein-Al – 4. To depict motif, symbolic meaning and its aesthetic Aabedin (d.1468) brought the decorative design from Iran to importance. India.As far as its mighty past is concerned, India always 5. To develop designs for bedcovers, taking inspiration remain mysterious since of its inestimable treasure which from Kashmir paisley motif. includes all the arts, paintings, sculptures, fabrics etc are 6. To print bed cover with developed designs. known to us only for reading eye witness accounts. The same can be said of the legendary fabrics known to have adorned Limitations the palaces of princess areas. A few of which perhaps still 1. The study was limited to Kashmir paisley motif. exists secretly in some ancient families. They belong to the 2.