HISTORY OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE 1 HISTORY OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE (1837-2012): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2012 Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE 2 Copyright (c) 2012 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher. Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected] ISBN 9781928914433 (Worcestershire sauce) ISBN 978-1-928914-43-3 (Worcestershire sauce) Printed 23 March 2012 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: History of Worcestershire sauce History of Lea & Perrins History of Lea and Perrins History of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce Bibliography of Worcestershire sauce Bibliography of Lea & Perrins Bibliography of Lea and Perrins Bibliography of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce Chronology of Worcestershire sauce Chronology of Lea & Perrins Chronology of Lea and Perrins Chronology of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce Timeline of Worcestershire sauce Timeline of Lea & Perrins Timeline of Lea and Perrins Timeline of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE 3 Contents Page Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5 About This Book ........................................................................................................................................................... 10 Abbreviations Used in This Book ................................................................................................................................ 11 How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 12 Full-Page Graphics of Memorabilia ............................................................................................................................ 14 History of Worcestershire Sauce: 533 References in Chronological Order ............................................................. 19 Contains 42 Illustrations and Photographs Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 188 Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 213 Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE 4 DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. This book is dedicated to Mr. John Wheeley Lea Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library and Mr. William Henry Perrins - the founders. And (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. to Brian Keogh and Louise Wright - authors and historians. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting collecting the documents, building the library, and producing people from around the world who share a common interest, the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle help to our research over the years, several stand out: Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu. Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Maryland. And to Lorenz K. Schaller of Ojai, California. Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special For outstanding help on this Worcestershire sauce book we help on Slavic-language documents. thank: J.W. Garnett, Milan Drake, and John Troy. National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry California, who has kept our computers up and running since Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, would not have been possible. Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Tanner Wray. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache. This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the Lane Medical Library at Stanford University. hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented history of this subject. Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry Cartmill, Linda Barbero. Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas. French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s. Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE 5 INTRODUCTION Brief chronology of Worcestershire sauce: (Hartley 2005, p. 76). Millions of people throughout the English-speaking world 1840 Oct. 17 – Lea, Perrins, & Smith (of Worcester and fi rst tasted soy sauce as the main secret ingredient in Lea & Cheltenham) run a small ad titled “Worcestershire Sauce” Perrins’ Worcestershire Sauce. in the Manchester Guardian, England (p. 1). It states: “The Worcestershire Sauce is prepared by us from the favourite Lea & Perrins’ factory was located on the River Severn recipe of a nobleman of acknowledged gout [taste]; it in Worcester, a city and county town of Worcestershire possesses a peculiar piquancy; it is applicable to almost in the West Midlands of England – for centuries a major every dish, on account of the superiority of its zest; the transportation hub – fi rst by water, then (starting in 1850) by diffusible property of its delicate fl avour renders it the most rail. economical, as well as the most useful of sauces.” This ad is the earliest known proof of the sauce’s existence. Soy sauce remained the main secret ingredient until World War II, when supply problems caused it to be replaced by 1840 – John Duncan & Sons, the New York agent for Lea & hydrolyzed vegetable protein (HVP) (Garnett 1991). Other Perrins, begins to handle Worcestershire Sauce (Wright 1975, important ingredients have long been vinegar and anchovies p. 32). (or essence of anchovy). 1842 – Lea & Perrins sells 636 bottles of their sauce (Wright 1823 Jan. 1 – Mr. John Wheeley Lea, an established 1975, p. 31). chemist, takes into partnership Mr. William Henry Perrins, at his chemist shop on Broad Street, Worcestershire. They 1843 March 5 – This ad appears in the Observer (London), prepare a catalog for the occasion which lists over 300 p. 1. “Lea and Perrin’s ‘Worcestershire Sauce, prepared from items, including herbs and spices from around the world the recipe of a nobleman in the country. The above celebrated (The Road from Aston Cross, by Louise Wright 1975, p. Sauce, has from the time of its introduction, been steadily 30; The Secret Sauce: A History of Lea & Perrins, by Brian progressing in public favour; its peculiar piquancy, combined Keogh, 1997, p. 1). with exquisite fl avour, establish it of a character unequalled in the sauces. Noblemen and others of acknowledged gout 1823 Jan. 21 – Partnership between William Perrins [taste], pronounce it to be ‘the only good sauce;’ and for and James Perrins (chemists and druggists in the County enriching gravies or as a zest for fi sh, curries, steaks, game, of Worcester, England) is dissolved by mutual consent. cold meat, &c. especially unrivalled. As a rapidly increasing James Perrins plans to carry on the business alone (London inquiry is now made for it in all parts of the kingdom, the Gazette, p. 111). proprietors beg to state that druggists, grocers, and others may be supplied by their agents: – Messrs. Barclay and Sons, 1837 – John Wheeley Lea and William Henry Perrins, Farringdon-street; Mr. J. Harding, 59, Ling St., Stepney; chemists and partners since Jan. 1823, start to make Lea and Messrs. Metcalfe and Co., 16, Southampton Row; and by the Perrin’s Worcestershire Sauce in the