Cultured a Balone Blister Pearls from New Zealand

Cultured a Balone Blister Pearls from New Zealand

CULTU RED ABALONE BLISTER PEARLS FROM NEW ZEA LAND By Cheryl Y. Wentzell The successful culturing of abalone pearls balone pearls are highly prized for their rarity, has been known since French scientist dynamic colors, and remarkable iridescence. Louis Boutan’s experimentation in the late Their unusual shapes—often conica l—and 1890s, but commercial production has Apotentially large sizes make these pearls especially well suit - been achieved only in recent decades. The ed for designer jewelry. The beauty of these rare pearls has use of New Zealand’s Haliotis iris , with its spawned several attempts at culturing, recorded as far back colorful and iridescent nacre, has had the as the late 19th century. However, these early attempts strongest recent impact on this industry. Empress Abalone Ltd. is producing large, encountered many obstacles. Only recently have researchers attractive cultured blister pearls in H. iris . begun to overcome the challenges and difficulties presented The first commercial harvest in 1997 yield - by abalone pearl culture. One company, Empress Abalone ed approximately 6,000 jewelry-quality Ltd. of Christchurch, New Zealand, is successfully culturing cultured blister pearls, 9–20 mm in diame - brightly colored blister pearls within New Zealand’s ter, with vibrant blue, green, purple, and Haliotis iris (figure 1). These assembled cultured blister pink hues. Examination of 22 samples of pearls are marketed under the international trademark, this material by standard gemological and Empress Pearl © (or Empress Abalone Pearl © in the U.S.). The advanced testing methods revealed that company is also pursuing the commercial production of the presence and thicknesses of the conchi - whole spherical cultured abalone pearls. olin layers had a significant impact on This article will focus on the history, production, mar - face-up appearance. Empress Abalone Ltd. is also experimenting with producing keting, and identifying characteristics of cultured and whole free-formed cultured pearls in this assembled blister pearls produced by Empress Abalone Ltd. gastropod mollusk. Except where referenced otherwise, information was obtained through personal communication with the owners, Liz and Michael McKenzie, from 1996 through 1998. HISTORY OF ABALONE PEARL CULTURE The successful culturing of abalone pearls has been elusive because of the difficulty of farming and nucleating abalone. ABOUT THE AUTHOR The first cultured abalone blister and spherical pearls were Ms. Wentzell ([email protected]) is a senior staff experimentally produced in the late 1890s, by French scien - gemologist in Identification Services at the GIA tist Louis Boutan using the European ormer abalone Haliotis Gem Trade Laboratory in Carlsbad, California. tuberculata (Fankboner, 1991, 1995). Four decades later, La Please see acknowledgments at the end of the article. Place Bostwick claimed to have cultured both blister and Gems & Gemology, Vol. 34, No. 3, pp. 18 4–200 whole free-formed pearls in abalone from California © 1998 Gemological Institute of America (Bostwick, 1936). Bostwick’s work was succeeded by that of Japanese scientist Dr. Kan Uno during the mid-1950s. Uno 184 Cultured Abalone Pearls GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1998 Figure 1. Since they were first introduced to the international gem market in 1996, cultured abalone blister pearls from New Zealand have appeared in many pieces of fine jewel- ry. This 18K gold and pal- ladium pendant (actually a hidden clasp) is set with a 15 mm “Gem” grade Empress Pearl©. The Tahitian black pearls in the necklace are graduat- ed from 11.5 mm to 15.25 mm. Designed and manu- factured by Richard Kimball, Denver, Colorado; photo © Azad. made some remarkable advances in culturing and claims to have cultured a few whole free- abalone pearls by drilling a hole through the shell to formed tissue-nucleated pearls as large as 8 mm (P. secure the nucleus (Fankboner, 1995; McKenzie, Fankboner, pers. comm., 1998). 1996). He has since reported growing blister pearls Dr. Fankboner also reports that, in addition to up to 22 mm in diameter in Haliotis discus in his own company (Pacific Pearl Culture Ltd., Japan. However, his attempts at producing whole Burnaby, B.C., Canada), there are three other pro- round pearls were not as successful (Fankboner, ducers of cultured abalone blister pearls on the west 1991). Subsequently, Cho Won-Ho, president of coast of North America, all in California: Jack Korea Abalone Pearls in South Korea, began culti- Joyner of California Abalone Pearls, Santa Barbara; vating abalone pearls; in 1991, he projected the suc- Joe Cavanaugh and Art Seavey of Monterey cessful production of large whole spherical abalone Abalone Co, Monterey; and Tim Ross of North pearls (“Bigger abalone . .,” 1991). However, this Coast Sea Farm, Crescent City. Dr. Fankboner and pioneering effort has been halted, as the company GIA Gem Trade Laboratory (GIA GTL) staff mem- has discontinued operations. bers believe that there is also a producer on the west In the mid-1980s, Dr. Peter V. Fankboner, a pro- coast of Baja California, in Mexico, but the name fessor at Simon Fraser University in Burnaby, could not be obtained. British Columbia, was the first to produce jewelry- Abalone pearl culture has been attempted in quality cultured abalone blister pearls in North many other countries, including Australia, New America, using the pinto abalone Haliotis Zealand, China, South Africa, Mexico, Chile, and kamtschatkana (Fankboner, 1995). Dr. Fankboner Ireland (Fankboner, 1995). According to a 1997 arti- has since produced perhaps the world’s largest blis- cle by Cropp, recent experiments for producing ter pearl, which measures 27 mm (just over one three-quarter blister to round pearls in Hawaii were inch) across the base (“SFU marine biologist claims encouraging. Tasmania entered the field in the early world record . ,” 1996). He has experimented 1990s, when Abalone Pearls Pty. Ltd. first success- with producing spherical bead-nucleated pearls, fully produced blister pearls, and began targeting Cultured Abalone Pearls GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1998 185 2). Abalone blister pearls are cultured by Empress Abalone Ltd. at Halfmoon Bay on the northeast side of Stewart Island—a third, smaller island southern- most in New Zealand. This facility (figure 2, inset), which is open for visitors, is accessible from Invercargill, on the main south island, via an approximately one hour ferry ride or a 20 minute flight. Empress Abalone also has a research facility at Kaikoura, a small town on the northeast coast of the main south island, about 180 km (112 miles) north of Christchurch (McKenzie, 1996). New Zealand is surrounded by three major bod- ies of water: the Pacific Ocean to the north and east, the Tasman Sea to the west, and the Great Southern Ocean to the south. The subtropical and subantarctic currents converge at Stewart Island, creating an influx of nutrients and producing a rich and diverse marine environment. At Kaikoura, the continental shelf comes very close to shore, creating another diverse marine environment that benefits from the upwelling of rich nutrients. Company Structure and Facilities. In 1995, Liz and Michael McKenzie of Goldrush Gem Co., a New Figure 2. Empress Pearls are cultured primarily on Zealand jewelry firm, teamed up with a group of New Zealand’s Stewart Island, with a research facili- abalone divers from Abalone Producers and Partners ty at Kaikoura on the main south island. The inset to form a new company, Abalone Partners Ltd., on shows the Stewart Island production facility, which Stewart Island’s Halfmoon Bay. This operation is is located at Halfmoon Bay. Photo courtesy of managed by partner Ron Dennis. The McKenzie Empress Abalone Ltd. family also holds 55% interest in Empress Abalone Ltd., of Christchurch, which has sole marketing rights for the product. The remaining interest is spherical pearls, in the greenlip abalone Haliotis held by 20 shareholders. Recently, Empress Abalone laevigata (Cropp, 1997). The latter trials, which are Ltd. has taken over Abalone Partners Ltd., so it is nearing completion, have confirmed the formation now responsible for both the production and mar- of a pearl sac, the first stage in the development of keting of the cultured blister pearls. They have con- these cultured spherical pearls. tracted with Goldrush Gem Co. for all of the post- Since 1995, Empress Abalone Ltd. of New harvest processing. Zealand has successfully cultured commercial The abalone are housed onshore in 150 one- quantities of pearls in the brightly colored H. iris, or cubic-meter rubber tanks, each capable of holding paua, abalone. Their research and production activi- 1,000 liters of water and 70–80 abalone (figure 3). ties are described below. Another company that There are three full-time employees and up to seven uses H. iris is Rainbow Pearls, located in New seasonal staff members. During the next three Plymouth, Taranaki, on the west coast of New years, the McKenzies plan to build a much larger Zealand’s north island. This facility, once solely a facility, with a projected capacity of 100,000 commercial abalone hatchery, now produces assem- abalone, 16 km (10 miles) north of Kaikoura, in the bled cultured blister pearls. small town of Maungamanu. For its research activities, Empress Abalone Ltd. BACKGROUND OF THE “EMPRESS PEARL” leases space at the George Knox Research Location and Access. New Zealand is a topographi- Laboratory at Kaikoura (owned by the University of cally and climatically diverse

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