122mm 344mm 355mm 577mm 699mm Joss Naylor’s follow in the footsteps of a VIVIENNE CROW f legend on this 105-mile route LAKES, MERES AND WATERS OF Vivienne is an award-winning freelance writer and photographer f relive Joss’s 1983 adventure specialising in travel and the and share his experiences LAKES, OF THE LAKE MERESJOSS DISTRICT NAYLOR’S AND WATERS outdoors. A journalist since 1990, THELoweswater to LAKEOver Water: 105 miles DISTRICT in the footsteps of a legend she abandoned the constraints of from his 2020 rewalk a desk job on regional newspapers in 2001 to go travelling. On her f plan your own walk or run on return to the UK, she decided to this quiet and charming tour focus on the activities she loves of the largest lakes, meres and the most – hill-walking, writing, travelling and photography. Based in north Cumbria, she has put her waters in the Lake District Part memoir, part guidebook, intimate knowledge of northern England to good use, writing more part photographic odyssey, but mostly than a dozen popular walking guidebooks. She also contributes to one man’s ode to the hills and a number of regional and national magazines, including several regular walking columns. Vivienne is a member of the Outdoor valleys of his home Writers and Photographers Guild. Joss Naylor, King of the Fells, shares stories and secrets www.viviennecrow.co.uk from one of his favourite Lake District routes: the Lakes, Meres and Waters. From his record-breaking run in 1983 to In the summer of 1983, Stephen Wilson. This book is the result: part memoir, part his re-walk in 2020, this spectacular but little-known 105- legendary Lake District guidebook, part photographic odyssey, but mostly one mile tour showcases the Lake District like no other. fell-runner Joss Naylor man’s ode to the hills and valleys of his home. A perfect read for fell-runners, walkers and armchair set out to visit the 27 As Joss recalls his 1983 run, and other tales from his adventurers alike, this is a book guaranteed to inspire. main lakes, meres and running and shepherding life, readers are led through JOSS NAYLOR A portion of the proceeds from the sales of this book waters of England’s Lakeland’s varied landscapes – over rugged fells and along will go to the Brathay Trust, Joss’s favourite charity. The Born in 1936, Joss Naylor remains largest National Park. Over the next 105 miles, mind and idyllic dales. Accounts from others involved, including Ambleside-based organisation works to improve the life one of the country’s most famous body, landscape and weather came together to enable him pacesetters and marshals, help explain why this day lives chances of children and young people, particularly those and best-loved fell-runners. From to complete the challenge in a record-breaking 19 hours on in fell-running lore. from deprived backgrounds, through engagement in the mid-1960s onwards, the and 14 minutes. It was, he says, one of the most beautiful challenging outdoor and creative activities. Find out more Wasdale sheep farmer set dozens things he ever did. f varied terrain, highlighting the best of the Lake District at www.justgiving.com/brathay. of running records while working Thirty-seven years later, Joss set out to create a f route passable all year round (though be prepared for tirelessly for charity. Awarded the permanent record of that memorable day, so that others – snow and ice in winter) MBE in 1976, he is sometimes runners and walkers alike – could follow in his footsteps. At f no special equipment needed, although map and referred to as the King of the Fells. the age of 84, he rewalked most of the route with award- compass skills are essential winning outdoor writer Vivienne Crow and photographer UK £19.95 US $27.95 ISBN 978-1-78631-087-3 Vivienne Crow with Joss Naylor Photography by Stephen Wilson £19.95 www.cicerone.co.uk 1087 Joss LMW Cover 2021 1st Ed.indd 1 Spine 11 02/08/2021 09:30 mm Back cover flap 122mm Back cover 222mm 160pp B&B Front cover 222mm Front cover flap 122mm JOSS NAYLOR’S LAKES, MERES AND WATERS OF THE LAKE DISTRICT Loweswater to Over Water: 105 miles in the footsteps of a legend By Vivienne Crow with Joss Naylor Photography by Stephen Wilson © Vivienne Crow with Joss Naylor 2021 Photography by Stephen Wilson First edition 2021 (www.granddayoutphotography.co.uk) ISBN: 978 1 78631 087 3 unless otherwise stated . Every effort has been made to trace and CONTENTS ® MIX contact copyright holders of archive photos Paper from responsible sources reproduced in this book . Any errors or FSC® C007785 omissions will be rectified in future reprints Printed in the UK by Bell and Bain, Glasgow of the book if drawn to our attention . Map key . 6 on responsibly sourced paper . Overview map . 7 This book was written, researched and A catalogue record for this book is available photography taken during the COVID-19 9 from the British Library . pandemic . Social-distancing rules at the time ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS were adhered to . FOREWORD 10 With thanks to the Fell Runners Association INTRODUCTION 13 Route mapping by Lovell Johns and the Achille Ratti Climbing Club for www.lovelljohns.com permission to reproduce content . © Crown copyright 2021 OS PU100012932 . Chapter 1 Loweswater to Ennerdale . 21 NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI Front cover: Wasdale sunset from the slopes Chapter 2 Ennerdale to Eskdale Green . 33 of Yewbarrow, showing the farmhouse at Cicerone Bowderdale (right) and with Joss Naylor inset Chapter 3 Eskdale Green to Dunnerdale . 44 Juniper House, Murley Moss, Chapter 4 Dunnerdale to Coniston . 59 Oxenholme Road, Kendal Pages 2–3: Ennerdale Water in autumn Chapter 5 Coniston to Skelwith Bridge . 71 Cumbria LA9 7RL (Chapter 2) www.cicerone.co.uk Chapter 6 Skelwith Bridge to Troutbeck . 83 Right: The road snakes its way along the Chapter 7 Troutbeck to Haweswater . 95 shores of Wastwater (Chapter 2) Chapter 8 Haweswater to Glenridding . 109 Chapter 9 Glenridding to Keswick . 121 Chapter 10 Keswick to Over Water . 132 Appendix A Marshals and split times for Joss’s 1983 LMW 148 ADVICE TO READERS Appendix B The 27 lakes, meres and waters 149 While every effort is made by our authors the facts on the ground, sent by email to to ensure the accuracy of our books updates@cicerone .co .uk or by post to Appendix C Glossary of dialect terms and topographical features 150 as they go to print, changes can occur Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Appendix D Route summary table 150 during the lifetime of an edition . Any Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL . updates that we know of for this book Register your book: To sign up to Appendix E Some of Joss’s challenge runs 151 will be on the Cicerone website (www. receive free updates, special offers and cicerone.co.uk/1087/updates) . We GPX files where available, register your are always grateful for information about book at www.cicerone.co.uk . any discrepancies between a book and r Low ve Ri Braithwaite Aspatria 6 59 A B 0 52 B 0 99 Caldbeck 5 3 A 3 llen 0 5 er E 5 6 B Riv Ireby 6 Joss Naylor’s Lakes, Meres and Waters of the Lake District B 7 5 3 A 0 Plumpton 3 1 5 641 9 B 1 Uldale MARYPORT Skelton Over Water M6 A5 9 5 Orthwaite 4 9 5 A River Derwent 6 9 Bassenthwaite 5 A B5288 COCKERMOUTH Mungrisdale Skiddaw Greystoke A66 Forest PENRITH Stainburn Skiddaw Bassenthwaite Dodd A66 Lake Wood A66 Penruddock A Scales 5 6 Troutbeck 9 High 6 5 1 0 A Lorton Millbeck 2 9 3 5 Threlkeld 0 Low Lorton B Thornthwaite 5 2 Applethwaite 9 A 5 A B5292 KESWICK Pooley Bridge Mockerkin Braithwaite Castlerigg 1 B 5 Watermillock 6 10 3 8 2 Loweswater r 0 2 Stair e 5 h Loweswater t A w Lamplugh o Derwentwater A L B 59 5 1 r 2 e 8 v i 9 Howtown Little R Town Ullswater Crummock Legburthwaite Water Sticks WHITEHAVEN Pass Buttermere Grange Thirlmere Glenridding 9 Ennerdale Bridge Buttermere Patterdale CLEATOR MOOR Ennerdale Red Rosthwaite Helvellyn Bridgend Water 2 Pike Stonethwaite Haweswater Gillerthwaite Reservoir Seatoller Hartsop Brothers Hayeswater Water Seathwaite High Haycock A Street 5 On the fells above Haweswater, with the North Pennines visible in the distance (Chapter 8) 9 8 LAKE DISTRICT 1 Blea Water 2 Small Water NATIONAL PARK 9 Wasdale Head 5 Nan Bield Pass A Seatallan Kentmere Scafell Grasmere Rydal Reservoir Pike 4 SYMBOLS USED ON MAPS MOUNTAIN SAFETY B53 3 Water Scafell Grasmere Rydal Greendale Wastwater Relief Chapel Stile Garburn Pass Elterwater route 1000m/3280ft Any walk or run that takes in fells or mountains has its Nether Elter Water AMBLESIDE Kentmere 900m/2953ft dangers, and the route described in this book is no Wasdale Clappersgate Skeggles Joss’s original route Gosforth Skelwith 800m/2625ft exception. All who venture into the mountains should Bridge 6 Waterhead Troutbeck Water 44 3 Longsleddale start point 700m/2297ft 5 Santon A recognise this and take responsibility for themselves and B 5 Bridge 9 7 600m/1968ft Cockley Beck 3 Boot 6 1 their companions along the way. The authors and publisher 9 8 finish point 5 2 500m/1640ft Eskdale Beckfoot 5 Levers A B Windermere have made every eort to ensure that the information Seascale Green 3 direction of route 400m/1312ft Low Water Outgate contained in this book was correct when it went to press, High Wray Troutbeck Bridge 300m/984ft n Water o d Hawkshead WINDERMERE peak but, except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, A d Staveley 200m/656ft 5 u Coniston 9 D Goat’s B 5 5 R they cannot accept responsibility for any loss, injury or 2 i 100m/328ft 8 v railway station r Water The Old Man e e 5 r v i of Coniston Esthwaite BOWNESS-ON- K R e inconvenience sustained by any person using this book.