FROM LEIGHFIELD SCHOOL TO GRAMMAR SCHOOL A Walk Through 400 Years of Uppingham History Uppingham’s like an octopus Whose body is the town; Its tentacles are the hilly roads Which switchback up and down. The North road leads to Ayston, The East road leads to Glaston, The West road leads to Blaston And the South to London Town. ( R Sterndale Bennett ) A Mini – History Uppingham Local History Group MH No. 4. May 2009. © PNL / ULHG. PREFACE Leighfield Primary School was built by Rutland County Council in 1969 whereas Archdeacon Robert Johnson’s Grammar School was founded in 1584. Both were to provide free schooling for children from Uppingham and nearby, but what a difference of education – the Classics as compared with the modern curriculum. To walk from the one to the other though barely a mile apart is a journey of nearly 400 years. On the way we pass many interesting places; some quite recent but as we get closer to the centre of town others have been there for a half millennium or longer. Almost at the end we find another that has been the heart of our community for more than a 1,000 years – the Parish Church of St Peter and St Paul facing north to the market and to the south looking out over farms and fields – mirroring the two aspects of life on which Uppingham has been built. But there is one other even older, and that is Uppingham itself. Here, some 1,600 years ago, an immigrant Saxon farmer and his family settled on a ridge of land near to the place we now call The Crown Hotel. He found land for cultivation, a spring for water, grazing for his animals and wood for building and burning. The place was isolated, yet with long views he could see who might be coming to visit. And if he disliked the look of them, it is always quicker to escape down the slope than it is for the strangers to run uphill. It would surprise our first family if they could see what they started. Before setting out on our walk from Leighfield, let us think a little about this Saxon farmer and the organisation of the town that grew up where he decided he would like to live. P. N. Lane. © PNL, Uppingham Local History Group. May 2009. The Church seen from near the future Leighfield School c1875 i The Maltings Tudor and No 42 House Falcon Theatre Fever Hospital Market Place Stone Cottages Parish Victoria White Church Tower Hart Sheep dip Old Churchyard School Leighfield School Uppingham [ Places mentioned in the Walk ] How Uppingham is Organised Uppingham means the settlement of the people who live on the hill, though some say that it should be the settlement of Yppa’s people. The name comes from the Old Saxon language and reveals that the Saxon invaders settled here about 1,600 years ago in the late 4th or early 5th centuries. We think the first buildings were a homestead near the site of the Crown Hotel where the footpath through Crown Passage and Reeves Yard crosses the High Street. The town’s layout is typically one long main street at different times called the High Street, Main Street or Town Street with parallel north and south backways – on the north side called North Street and on the south known as South View and Spring Back Way. In medieval times plots were larger than they are today, beginning at the High Street and extending back to meet the back way. One such plot comprised Nos 16 (The Lake Isle), 18 (Murray’s) & 20 (empty shop), taking in all of Reeves Yard and extending down to include No 26 South View (Mrs Mary Holmes, formerly the Malsters Arms). Each of these plots (called a messuage) contained one or more dwellings, with a yard, stables, outhouses, barns, a place to keep chickens, a sty for a pig being fattened for slaughter and a byre with a cow and calf for the milk. There would be space for a few fruit trees and a patch to grow vegetables. The yard would have access to the High Street and at the other end leading on to the back way which was the access for carts bringing firewood, straw, feed for the animals as well as taking away household refuse, muck and dung from the stables. As more and more people came to live in the town, these yards filled with houses, either newly erected in front of the original farmhouse as was Small’s built in front of The Little Crooked House in Hopes Yard, or by conversion of barns and stables. This process continues today, seen in the recently built house in Reeves Yard and the flats behind Nelson’s Butchers. Surviving examples are Sheilds Yard, Printers Yard, Reeves Yard, Crown Yard, Hopes Yard and Southwells Yard (otherwise Puzzle Corner). All families living in a messuage used the same well with its pump (Sheilds and Crown Yards) and shared the same latrine in the yard. Sanitation was rudimentary and many children died before they reached 15 years. Despite this, tombstones in the churchyard show some people lived into their 70s and 80s. Though people never stopped building in Uppingham there were three major phases of building and rebuilding. The first was late Elizabethan (16th century) when stone became commonly used – examples are the Old Grammar School, Tudor House 1 at 8 High Street West, at 50 High Street East, as also the doorways in Unicorn Passage and to the former White Hart. There followed another about 120 years later that gave us such Georgian buildings as Culpin’s, Martin’s and The Crown, but also the fronts of many shops in the High Street. In those days the High Street must have been wider to allow room to erect new frontages or front buildings that give the town its Georgian appearance, although behind there remain parts of much older construction. Thirdly came the Victorian revival the result of the School’s expansion under the Rev’d Edward Thring. Most of these buildings are the School boarding houses but also the fine town houses in High Street West opposite Lorne House. And what of the 20th century ? In the last 100 years only two new dwellings have been built in the High Street; both at its East end. This generation’s contribution to Uppingham’s townscape is confined to inserting shop windows – some not at all beautiful. But we have tidied up the buildings, planted trees, cut the grass and hung flower baskets, besides putting in pavements and cleaning the streets. Uppingham looks the better for it. 1 Features of Uppingham’s Layout Hopes Yard c1950 Uppingham Market Place 2 Between the High Street and the Church is the Market Place where for over 800 years people have bartered, bought and sold meat, foods, shoes, clothes and where they obtained cloth, salt, or some luxuries from itinerant traders. Buildings such as Ashdale’s, the Post Office, The Vaults started as market stalls and were allowed to stay so that they became permanent. The island shop is said to be the location of the town’s medieval market office and lock-up. Beyond the Church there was also a Beast Market for selling animals and a Hog Market where pigs were sold. The market was established by Royal Charter of Edward I in 1281 that also gave the Lord of the Manor permission to hold two annual fairs – the origins of the town’s annual Lent Fair and Fat Stock Show. These were lively and boisterous occasions with traders coming from all over eastern England to sell their wares. Those that sold cloth and clothes used to spread them out on the churchyard wall and over tombstones – to the scandal of the Churchwardens. There was much drinking and in about 1580 a celebrated murder when two of the peddlers quarrelled. In later years it was the custom to pen sheep and livestock along the High Street (similar to what happens nowadays at the annual Fat Stock Show). Rings for tethering these beasts, and also horses at other times of the year, can still be found on the fronts of The Bookshop and of No 8 High Street West. In nearby Orange Street, traders sold oranges to the townsfolk at Fair time – hence the name. Later, in 1751, the Turnpike Roads had an equal effect on the layout of the town. Two of these passed through Uppingham; the first from Leicester to Wansford where it joined the Great North Road and a second from Northampton to Nottingham. As a result for the first time it became possible for mail and passengers to reach London in a day. The crookedness of the crossroads where High Street and Orange Street meet meant that High Street was no longer used as the east/west through route. Instead the Leicester/Wansford turnpike road ran along North Street – the milestone can be seen in North Street West - with the result that this part of the town became more important. And by 1779 the number of inns and alehouses in Uppingham had increased to 27; the inns where coach passengers stayed and the alehouses where the carters and their servants drank alongside the inhabitants of the town. It is at this period that The Falcon became the most important inn, where all the mail coaches stopped. Due to the steepness of Church Lane (London Road) coaches coming from the south turned along South View and up Queen Street, then called Horn Lane because it was here the postillion blew his horn announcing the arrival of the coach, then turning along High Street East and into The Falcon through the arch now filled by the glass front doors, to reach the yard behind.