and after fermentation in oak barrels it to the captivating prima ballerina assoluta a singular furrow which has elevated her makes the finest of all sweet wines. Barsac that is Climens. What is surprising about to the ranks of president of the Association appellation wines have a distinct flavour the wines from this part of the world is des Crus Classés de Sauternes et Barsac. Chateau Climens which sets them apart from their near that they are often sensational value for neighbours’. Barsacs have freshness and lift money. I always seem able to satiate my on the nose and a palate that renders them unquenchable thirst for Climens in spite “Climens is the finest estate in this region by some considerable margin 1er Cru more ethereal and sprightly than some of of only three thousand or so cases being and this is because the wines not only have fine Barsac purity, but they Barsac the more intensely tropical Sauternes. It is made each year. Châteaux Climens is Bordeaux for this reason that many wine lovers search owned by Bérénice Lurton, from the also have extraordinary length, refinement and persistence.” Established 900 out Barsac wines in order to enjoy them famous Lurton wine dynasty. She took with their favourite puddings, rather than over management of Climens at 22 years instead of pudding! Climens is the finest of age, in 1992, when her Father Lucien estate in this region by some considerable announced one day that he was to retire margin and this is because the wines not and that his ten children would have to microclimate, that the microscopic fungus only have fine Barsac purity, but they also look after his extraordinary collection Botrytis cinerea develops in the vineyards, have extraordinary length, refinement and of Châteaux. She got Camarsac in the clinging to the skins of the Semillon persistence. I have been lucky enough to Entre de Mers region of Bordeaux and grapes, giving rise to the venerable taste 1908 Château Climens and it was still half of Climens. It was not until she had sounding and fortune making ‘Noble crammed full of joie de vivre and energy. renovated Camarsac and then sold it in Rot’. Late in the season this rot attacks Other well-known Barsac estates include 2007 that she could afford to buy the the bunches on the vines and the mouldy Coutet, the only other Premier Cru, and also whole of Climens, when her sister, Brigitte, grapes are sucked dry of their water, Doisy-Daëne, Doisy-Védrines, Broustet, gave up her portion. She has done an leaving fuzzy looking bunches behind, Suau, Nairac and Caillou all Deuxièmes incredible job from a very young age and with the most heavenly sugar imaginable Crus. They are a worthy supporting corps she likes to do things her way, ploughing locked safely inside each grape. It is worth noting that Noble Rot is not the same as grey rot, which ruins crops and brings with it a mouldy flavour in the 02 resulting wine. In Noble Rot’s case the flavour of the wine is actually enhanced by this relatively unsightly invader and so it is encouraged. Why does this particular part of the world attract this peculiar rot so successfully? The answer lies in a tributary of the Garonne River called the Ciron, which bisects ‘greater’ Sauternes, separating Barsac in the north western corner of the region from the other sectors, 01 Bommes, Fargues, Preignac and Sauternes itself. Just north of Preignac, this river slices through the countryside and it, by dint of its cool waters, brings the magical mistiness and early morning moisture which, coupled with autumnal sunshine, 01 Et vituli cum membranas de This 30 hectare property, situated at the Botrytis adores. It is, in effect, the most corpore summo highest point of the Barsac commune expensive source of divine atomiser in the 02 Taetra medentes cum dare (20m above sea level), some 40 kilometres world. from Bordeaux up the Garonne River, is one of the finest sweet wine producing When the Noble Rot-affected grapes estates in the world. It is here, in a unique are crushed, sweet vinous elixirs emanate 14 15 France 03 04 05 01 Et vituli cum membranas de Planted exclusively to Semillon, a rare the blending of the final wine is as ruthless corpore summo single varietal estate in the region because as possible. In fact in 1984, 1987, 1993 02 Taetra medentes cum dare Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle are also and 1994 no Climens was released at all. 03 Circum contingunt mellis planted, the 35 year old vines dwell in the In these years the wine was declassified into 04 Puerorum aetas inprovida ludi- fascinating sounding ferrous clay sand on a second wine Cyprès de Climens which ficetur fissured starfish limestone subsoil. Climens also appears when in a more classic vintage 05 Conantur, prius oras pocula dulci flavoque liquore is one of the few estates in the region to some barrels don’t quite make the exacting change to biodynamic viticulture. Bérénice standard that Bérénice sets for her Grand tool this leap of faith in 2010 and changed Vin. Blossoming at around the fifteen year farming régimes en masse. Who knows mark Climens is a divine pleasure. This is what the future will hold, but I am certain one wine which is not big, bold, mouth- that this will only further refine the offerings filling and luxuriant; it is however, elegant, from this stellar estate. graceful, ultra-refined, poised and subtle. I hope that you will feel compelled to taste Because of the nature of Botrytis, the Climens once you have read this chapter yields are absolutely tiny in this form of because, as I say to my friends when I pour wine production - only 7 or 8 hectolitres/ this wine, you will be a better person for it hectare (around a fifth of that of a red wine). and some of the molecules of flavour will The wine is fermented in oak barrels and never ever leave you. 14 15 France.