THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINTER 2016 NAPA ROAD TRIP 2016 MILLOT NOT MERLOT CALIFORNIA’S LAKE COUNTY A “SLO” TASTE OF CALIFORNIA WINE AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2016 | 1 2 | WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2016 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG features 4 | Jim Rink 21 | George Medovoy Editor’s Note A “SLO” Taste of California Wine The American Wine Society National It has everything you could want in a Conference in Costa Mesa, California is a prime wine destination: lush vineyards, wrap, but what better way to soften winter’s winemakers up at first light to work the 6 chill than to explore the wines of California? harvest, cozy lodging, and great food. 6 | Roger Morris Napa Road Trip 2016 26 | Kristine Austin Brettanomyces — The colorful blankets of yellow mustard that the fungus among us drape the vineyards in early spring have melted away, replaced by random clusters Working in the wine industry, the topic of wild poppies growing between the of Brettanomyces, or to use winemaker’s vine rows and along the hillsides above parlance “brett,” is bound to come up in Silverado Trail. conversation. I hope to provide information so that your own opinions can be formed 12 12 | J. Stephen Casscles with knowledge and not just the view of Millot (not Merlot) — the masses. a hearty red hybrid 30 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW Leon Millot is a quality grape in the field 21 Wines to Watch that makes an excellent hearty, sometimes opaque, red wine. Leon Millot is a cross of In her continuing column, Ellen Landis a seedling of Millardet et Grasset 101-14 by selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with any pollen of Goldriesling. occasion or celebration. 15 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW 32 | Jim Rink California’s Lake County New or Noteworthy 15 Rises to New Heights The 2016 California wine grape harvest was For me, Lake County has always been early, according to the California Wine evocative of childhood summers, learning Institute, with a mostly normal yield to water ski on Clear Lake. Now, it’s the of exceptional quality fruit throughout the burgeoning and adventurous viticulture of state. A relatively even growing season this region that provides a decidedly more followed welcome winter rains that helped grown-up rush of discovery. to alleviate the drought. 21 26 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2016 | 3 editor’sLETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 48 NO. 4 · WINTER 2016 Published by he American Wine Society National Conference in Costa Mesa, California is a The American Wine Society, a non-profit corporation, wrap, but what better way to soften winter’s chill than to explore the wines PO Box 279, Englewood, OH 45322 of California? T Single copies $5.00 In this issue of the Journal we visit Lake County, Napa Valley and San Luis Copyright © 2016 by AWS, Inc. Obispo courtesy of Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Roger Morris and George Medovoy. Reproduction or use of the editorial Lake County’s Mediterranean climate is ideal for grape-growing and or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Ellen provides a comprehensive outline of the region. The mecca of American winemaking hasn’t changed much in the past four decades, according to Roger Library of Congress Class Number: TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 Morris, but it has matured. Roger revisits Napa Valley during a memorable road trip and reports his findings. George Medovoy gives us a “SLO” taste of Califor- Publisher nia wine, courtesy of the San Luis Obispo Wine Country Association. George John Hames hand-picked four wineries to visit and interview. Editor Jim Rink All the leaves are brown and the sky is gray Contributing Writers I’ve been for a walk on a winter’s day Jim Rink, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, I’d be safe and warm if I was in L.A. Roger Morris, J. Stephen Casscles, George Medovoy, Kristine Austin California dreamin’ on such a winter’s day Editorial Office Brettanomyces — it’s the fungus among us and something most winemakers Jim Rink 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive BECOME A must deal with at some point or another. New contributor Kristine Austin Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 provides some background and tips on how to prevent this feisty yeast from [email protected] forming. Leon Millot is a quality grape in the field that makes an excellent hearty, Unsolicited manuscripts or other sometimes opaque, red wine. J. Stephen Casscles has some history about this information will not be returned unless versatile grape which is winter hardy and makes a big wine. accompanied by return postage. Advertising Office As always, we have “21 Wines to Watch” by Ellen Landis, CS, CSW. In this issue, Ellen PO Box 279 features wines from across the country, with Missouri, Michigan, Oregon, Englewood, OH 45322 888-AWS-9070 California, Washington, Ohio and Kansas represented (also Australia). Bottle prices (fax) 937.529.7888 in this issue’s collection are very affordable, ranging from $8.99 to $60 executivedirector@ americanwinesociety.org Creative | Production 404.925.2677 Stay thirsty, The Blue Guy, LLC [email protected] theblueguy.com 4 | WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2016 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Founder The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Konstantin Frank group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include AWS National Officers and Board of Directors wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine President Treasurer Director of appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. Frank Aquilino Tom Wallman Member Services Director of David Falchek Vice President Educational Services Kristin Casler Kraft Executive Director AWS ACTIVITIES Aaron Mandel John Hames AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Secretary Director of Competitions monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Joe Broski Joe Dautlick cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Past Presidents wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters 1967–1970 1991 2002 are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Albert W. Laubengayer Stephen R. Kampers William H. Eisberg 1971–1972 1992 2003 chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Robert A. Dickmann J. Randy Hurteau Frank C. Aquilino chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and 1973–1974 1993 2004 held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Carl W. Damoth Alcide L. Porrell Willis L. Parker 1975–1976 1994 2005 AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine Jerry S. Miller George E. Wilson Tom Castronovo 1977–78 1995 2006 judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Kathryn Froelich Kenneth P. Brewer Janice Cobett 1979–1980 1996 2007 AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and Joseph P. Nardone Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. Albert L. Guber, Jr. extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, 1981–1982 1997 2008-2009 winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent John M. Hasson Eugene J. Spaziani Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1983–1984 1998 2010-2011 Michael A. Farren Gary C. Pavlis Willis L. Parker appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at 1985–1986 1999 2012-2014 connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by Lewis H. France, Jr. Gayle M. Darugh Jane M. Duralia the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious 1987–1988 2000 2015-2016 Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Charles E. Hastings Frank C. Aquilino amateurs and novices together to discover what is new in wine. 1989–1990 2001 Alton L. Long Pamela J. 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