Japan Spring Highlights 16th to 27th May 2019 (12 days) Hokkaido Extension 27th to 31st May 2019 (5 days) Trip Report Japanese Night Heron by Ben Werner Tour Leaders: Adam Walleyn and Bryan Shirley Trip report compiled by Tour Leader: Adam Walleyn Trip Report – RBL Japan – Spring Highlights + Hokkaido Ext 2019 2 Tour Summary Our group met in Narita for an introductory dinner, and headed out the next morning under blue skies to the reed beds of the Tone River. The first bird we noted upon arrival was a lovely Japanese Reed Bunting, a threatened species that we would go on to see several of during our visit here. Our other main target was the highly localised Marsh Grassbird. Several were heard and regularly seen in display flight, but it took a bit of patience before everyone managed to see one perched in the reeds, a subtly beautiful species. A variety of other warblers were enjoyed – all very distinct, at least vocally: Zitting Cisticola, Japanese Bush Warbler and Oriental Reed Warbler. A couple of Green Pheasants burst out at our feet as we strolled along the river’s edge, and other interesting sightings included Meadow Bunting, Bull-headed Shrike, White-cheeked Starling and Tufted Duck. Moving on, we explored some rice paddies where we added Intermediate Egret and Whimbrel to our lists and also stopped the vehicles for a flying Grey-faced Buzzard. Ural Owl by Takumi Koichi After lunch, we visited an area where a pair of Ural Owl had successfully nested and were treated to amazing views of not only one of the adults, but also a wonderful fluffy youngster peering down at us. Definitely the highlight of the day! Not far away, we were also shown a pair of roosting Northern Boobooks that we could study at leisure. We checked out a vast marsh where an Oriental Stork had been hanging out. No luck on finding that, but we did see a couple of Eastern Buzzards here. To round out the afternoon, we drove to the Karuizawa area, where ended our first and very enjoyable day! We were out early in the morning to enjoy the magnificent deciduous forests of Karuizawa, which had just recently come into leaf and were full of birdsong of exotic and exciting birds. We quickly found two dazzling flycatcher species, the stunning Blue-and-white and the glowing Narcissus, and would have regular sightings of these two species over our time here. We also soon found a pair of very cooperative Japanese Yellow Buntings, a subtly beautiful bunting that is one of the most threatened of the Japanese breeding endemic species. Other highlights of our Narcissus Flycatcher by Takumi Koichi morning walk included Brown Dippers in the stream, Ashy Minivets, Japanese Pygmy Woodpeckers, a brief Japanese Green Woodpecker, Coal, Varied, Willow, Japanese and Long-tailed Tits, exceptional views for some of the normally elusive Asian Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Japan Trip Report – RBL Japan – Spring Highlights + Hokkaido Ext 2019 3 Stubtail, Eastern Crowned Warbler and just a brief flyby of White-bellied Green Pigeon. The most surprising sighting of the morning came as we watched a Great Spotted Woodpecker feeding on the ground. Suddenly, a Northern Goshawk swooped in on it, but the woodpecker escaped leaving the goshawk sitting there and looking very upset! After breakfast, we explored a trail into the forest. At the trailhead, we were delighted to see a very cute Japanese Giant Flying Squirrel sleepily peering at us out of its box. Eventually, it emerged a good ways out, where we could get a nice look at this very cool nocturnal creature. Continuing along the trail, we found a stunning male Japanese Thrush along with several Japanese Grosbeaks that eventually perched in the open so we could scope them up. Following a picnic lunch and a short rest, we explored some areas of rice paddies and forest patches outside of town. Of the hoped-for Latham’s Snipe, there was no sign, but we enjoyed seeing some great species here, including Japanese Wagtail, Chestnut-eared Bunting, Chestnut-cheeked Starling and lots of Green Pheasants. Back into the forests early again the next Northern Goshawk by Takumi Koichi morning, we were delighted to have very good looks at a Siberian Blue Robin and improved upon our views of Japanese Green Woodpecker. Another Asian Stubtail was seen, but we only heard the wing flutter of a Copper Pheasant that would remain hidden deep inside the forest. Eurasian Wren and Eurasian Nuthatch perched beautifully for us, and we had further views of Japanese Grosbeaks. A stop at a gravelly riverbed near town added Asian House Martins, Common Merganser and Eurasian Teal to our lists, and then it was time to drive through to the base of Mt Fuji over the rest of the morning. Lunch was at a sushi train restaurant; and while lunch was delicious, it was hard to believe that the highest mountain in Japan towered above us, for all we could see was heavy cloud. Driving up the north side of Mt Fuji, we soon entered that cloud and it was hard to see more than a few feet in front of us. Nevertheless, we set about birding near the treeline in an ethereal world of stunted pines and birches enshrouded in the heavy mist. Goldcrests Japanese Giant Flying Squirrel by Takumi Koichi didn’t seem to mind the weather, and we saw several really well. We spotted a Red-flanked Bluetail hopping on the ground, but it was little more than a dark shape! We did eventually manage to find our main target, the Japanese Accentor, which came in to within a couple of feet of us and gave good views. As we descended the mountain, the late afternoon weather improved and some roadside birding netted us excellent views of Brown-headed Thrush and a Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Japan Trip Report – RBL Japan – Spring Highlights + Hokkaido Ext 2019 4 fantastic pair of Japanese Green Woodpecker; while even the top of Mt Fuji very briefly showed itself to us, before we continued to our accommodations on the southern side of the mountain. This morning, we headed back up the big mountain from the south side. The weather forecast was for pretty similar conditions to yesterday, but by the time we had made it up the switchbacks to the treeline we were treated to the best possible weather: bright blue sunshine and lots of birds making the most of the good weather. The views up to the peak were superlative, as were the magnificent forests below, and we revelled in the birds: Japanese Accentor, Japanese Leaf Warbler, Olive-backed Pipit and Red- flanked Bluetail all perching out in this stunted forest at the treeline. We also saw just a single Eurasian Bullfinch. As the clouds slowly closed in, we descended and Japanese Accentor by Takumi Koichi birded the wonderful mixed woods lower down. Here, we added Oriental Cuckoo, Dark-sided Flycatcher, another Siberian Blue Robin and a glorious Narcissus Flycatcher feeding on the ground at very close range. After a lot of searching, we finally had a Rufous Hawk-Cuckoo fly past, giving pretty good flight views. By now, it was time for a late lunch, and the blue skies had given way to intermittent rain and a noticeable increase in wind as well. As we drove to Tokyo to catch the ferry to Miyake-jima tonight, we got the expected news that an incoming storm meant the ferry would be cancelled. Disappointed, if not surprised, we continued through the big city and found accommodation to the north while we put together an alternate plan. With the storm, heavy rain was expected for the morning and it certainly materialised. We had a lie in and then drove up to the Nikko area. Finding any birds was not going to be much of an option this morning; although we were delighted to find a trio of Mandarin Ducks on the shoreline of a large lake. After some warming udon noodles for lunch, we finally got a break in the weather and so birded the Senjohago bog. Some nice sightings during our time here included Bull-headed Shrike, Dark- sided Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Flycatcher, Olive-backed Pipit and several attractive Russet Sparrows. We then headed down a curvy mountain road with flowering azaleas Japanese Badger by Stefan Johansson and explored the Toshugo Shrine. Built in the 1600s, the shrines are some of the most important in Japan and nestled within a natural cathedral of towering Japanese Cedars. For many, this unplanned visit was one of the highlights of the trip! After our exploration here, we spent the night in an onsen in the mountains, where everyone enjoyed a good soak in the outdoor bath as the hoots of Ural Owl could be heard deep in the forest. Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Japan Trip Report – RBL Japan – Spring Highlights + Hokkaido Ext 2019 5 Early morning at our onsen got off to a fantastic start, with a very obliging Japanese Green Woodpecker and a surprise sighting of a large Japanese Macaque at the top of a tall tree, shaking the branches. Best of all was a rare sighting of Japanese Badger that was rummaging through the leaf litter, oblivious to our presence! Back in the Senjohago bog, conditions were much nicer than yesterday, and we eventually tracked down a Latham’s Snipe perched on the ground. We also saw Common Cuckoo, Narcissus and Asian Brown Flycatchers, an immature Brown Dipper, more Russet Sparrows and a distant Eurasian Hobby.